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leaking AAS410


p-a-s
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Hi members,just after a bit of info on replacing seals on my air arms s410.I was planning on doing a spot of rabbit shooting this afternoon.(pest control not sport) and checked the air gauge before i got ready for the off. reading said empty,so i connected up to the bottle and all i got was air leaking out the silencer.I have had this air rifle for about 8/9 years and never had a problem with it and i think it just needs a set of seals.is it a DIY job or does the gun need to go to air arms.thanks for reading.

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No thats wrong , on a gun of that age it will not have the Anti Tamper fitted , as far as seals , its not really rocket science . Ive got a wedding next weekend or i would have done it for you .

 

Give this guy a bell

 

http://www.airarmspares.co.uk/

 

He will tell you just what bits you need and get em in the post to you . If you want a shove with it when you get em , give me a pm <_<

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hi. if the gun is 8 years old will be pre anti tamper.

you can buy a seal kit from eb*y for about £8.

airarms owners forum has complete strip down guides you can download.

as has been said before on here to fill the gun from empty you need to cock it and fill.

i had a pre anti tamper that would lose pressure over a couple of weeks, but never got round to

changing the seals so cant comment on how hard it would be but it looked easy enough.

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If it is flat empty and you are filling it from a bottle you will need to cock it to get it to hold the first few PSI, when you get past this it should fill fine? Forgive me if i am teaching you to suck eggs and have already tried this.

 

 

Its what i have to do with my aa s200 if i let it vent.

Edited by Sprinter
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Hi P-A-S if air is leaking out through the silencer it's the exhaust valve, that the main seal valve in the rifle and thats a full strip down so you might as well change all the o-rings as well, i've serviced hundred's of airarms s400/s410 s300/s310 over the years and well known in my area for doing air rifle repairs, your not to far away from me if you need any help let me know, airarms charge around £90.00 for a full service, I can do it alot cheaper.

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  • 1 month later...
If it is flat empty and you are filling it from a bottle you will need to cock it to get it to hold the first few PSI, when you get past this it should fill fine? Forgive me if i am teaching you to suck eggs and have already tried this.

 

 

Its what i have to do with my aa s200 if i let it vent.

 

:sick: I'd give this a try first, most AA's if they vent completely struggle to fill even from a bottle. Cock it first then try it again.

Edited by Colster
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i had the same problem recently...i found that the cylinder had worked lose a fraction of a turn but enough to lose the air over a couple of weeks. nipped it up and all ok, even though i had bought the spare rings....still they will be there for when i need them. it isnt hard to change/replace them just take your time and make sure the cylinder is empty before attempting to unscrew...

 

ATB

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  • 13 years later...

I know this is an old thread but I am just repairing an S400 with a gauge O ring leak and encountered the same problem. The reason the gauge doesn't register is the bottom O ring on the securing bolt is blocking the threads and preventing air reaching the gauge drilling. It's caused by too small an O ring or tightening it down far too hard. It is a very poor setup and the weakest part of the gun. It really needs a small Doughty washer as standard. I still had to buy a new guage anyway as it was leaking through the vent. This is caused by the Bourdon tube inside the gauge corroding. It gets condensation inside it and this gun has stood unused for over 10 ten years so it's hardly surprising it has developed a pin hole.

Edited by Guest
Correcting spelling
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Another solution if you know anyone with a milling machine is to machine an O ring groove in the bottom of the block to retain a larger O ring and stop it compressing against the bolt threads.  I believe this a shocking design flaw on an otherwise brilliant air rifle and something Air Arms need to correct if it is the same on more modern variants otherwise it will always be the weak link as it has been up till now.  Just how much can a milled O ring groove on the bottom of the gauge block add to the cost of the rifle.  Answer?  Just a few extra seconds in the CNC machine at zero cost.

Another simple solution......using a Dremel cutting disc cut a lengthways slot just to the depth of the threads in the bolt from the bottom to about 2/3rds of the way up to take it past the gauge drilling.  You could flatten one side of the bolt but not only may it weaken the threads a little too much but the O ring still confirms to the flat in the bolt if you tighten it just a little too much.  The DIY solution is the slot in the bolt if you haven't got access to a milling machine.  I simply cannot find a compound washer with a small enough external diameter and thin enough unfortunately.

Edited by Guest
Additional DIY solution.
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I know this is an old thread but I am just repairing an S400 with a gauge O ring leak and encountered the same problem. The reason the gauge doesn't register is the bottom O ring on the securing bolt is blocking the threads and preventing air reaching the gauge drilling. It's caused by too small an O ring or tightening it down far too hard. It is a very poor setup and the weakest part of the gun. It really needs a small Doughty washer as standard. I still had to buy a new guage anyway as it was leaking through the vent. This is caused by the Bourdon tube inside the gauge corroding. It gets condensation inside it and this gun has stood unused for over 10 ten years so it's hardly surprising it has developed a pin hole.

Another solution if you know anyone with a milling machine is to machine an O ring groove in the bottom of the block to retain a larger O ring and stop it compressing against the bolt threads.  I believe this a shocking design flaw on an otherwise brilliant air rifle and something Air Arms need to correct if it is the same on more modern variants otherwise it will always be the weak link as it has been up till now.  Just how much can a milled O ring groove on the bottom of the gauge block add to the cost of the rifle.  Answer?  Just a few extra seconds in the CNC machine at zero cost.

Another simple solution......using a Dremel cutting disc cut a lengthways slot just to the depth of the threads in the bolt from the bottom to about 2/3rds of the way up to take it past the gauge drilling.  You could flatten one side of the bolt but not only may it weaken the threads a little too much but the O ring still confirms to the flat in the bolt if you tighten it just a little too much.  The DIY solution is the slot in the bolt if you haven't got access to a milling machine.  I simply cannot find a compound washer with a small enough external diameter and thin enough unfortunately.

 

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This is how you modify the gauge block securing bolt so you can tighten down the block without obstructing air to the gauge.  So simple a solution.  It means you don't have to back off the bolt and risk a leaky O ring as it can now be fully tightened down eliminating the weak point in the S4** series and possibly others.

IMG_20230916_153412~2.jpg

IMG_20230916_153428~2.jpg

Edited by Biffo1262
Additional info.
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To be honest I've not had this problem using genuine air arms parts. I don't think the guage is supposed to be bolted down hard tight. 

Your bolt mod looks to be designed to "cut" increase thread depth. Think if I really wanted to go down this route I'd shorten the bolt by a few threads as a more returnable route. 

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This new high tensile bolt is actually 2 mm shorter though the length makes no difference.  No, there is no sharp edge to alter the depth of the thread and being the correct thread it wouldn't do so anyway. it is simply an airway. The fact that you cannot tighten it down for fear of blocking the airway is the very reason these guns will eventually leak at this point. The reason I reckon the design is flawed is because the recess for the O ring is literally a one sided indent which compresses the seal against the threads whereas if they had machined in a completely recessed groove for a slightly larger diameter O ring the problem would simply not exist.  My mods works but being a new mod time will tell.  The original O rings always separated cut by the outer edge of the recess and simply left the remains trapped in the recess because many put in a larger than OEM O ring in an attempt to solve the air flow problem.  As long as you make sure there are no sharp edges left on the bolt after modding there really shouldn't be any further problems using the correct O ring.  I have bought some 2mm end mills so next time I get one I will modify the block itself.  It IS a known weak point and the number of people who buy a new gauge thinking their original is goosed is quite remarkable only to find the new one does the same thing until the penny drops.  At £50 a time retail for the OEM gauge it isn't something you want to do unless it really is goosed.  

Edited by Biffo1262
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