landrover door skin's
#1
Posted 25 June 2012 - 05:07 PM
#2
Posted 25 June 2012 - 05:49 PM
#3
Posted 25 June 2012 - 06:00 PM
Door...£ 456.00
The skin is just fitted onto the frame as far as i can see with the bend shut tabs....
#4
Posted 25 June 2012 - 08:15 PM
It's not a bad job to do even if you've not done before.
Take door off.
Sand / grind through outer edge of the existing door skin perimeter back to the edge of the door frame.
Once this has been done, the old skin will be easily be taken off (may need a bit of help around the window pillars).
Next, grind off the remaining spot-welded flange on the inside edge of the door frame.
Now sit the new door skin on a bench or workframe with a bit of protection on top (old carpet or similar), drop the door frame into the skin & slowly and steadily, knock down the flange of the door skin onto the door frame with a hammer & dolly. If you do this with patience & do not distort the face of the door skin, a you should get a good finish.
I,m sure there are links on Tube to make my ramblings clearer .
Good luck.
S.G.
#5
Posted 25 June 2012 - 08:24 PM
Hi
It's not a bad job to do even if you've not done before.
Take door off.
Sand / grind through outer edge of the existing door skin perimeter back to the edge of the door frame.
Once this has been done, the old skin will be easily be taken off (may need a bit of help around the window pillars).
Next, grind off the remaining spot-welded flange on the inside edge of the door frame.
Now sit the new door skin on a bench or workframe with a bit of protection on top (old carpet or similar), drop the door frame into the skin & slowly and steadily, knock down the flange of the door skin onto the door frame with a hammer & dolly. If you do this with patience & do not distort the face of the door skin, a you should get a good finish.
I,m sure there are links on Tube to make my ramblings clearer .
Good luck.
S.G.
cheers ole partner......got that in one...i apreciate you getting back......let you know how i get on
thanks again
ditchman
#6
Posted 26 June 2012 - 06:18 PM
#7
Posted 26 June 2012 - 07:08 PM
make sure you use plenty of rustproofer/sealant on the frame, and rather than knocking it with a hammer, a pair of soft faced grips will give more control.
Does the skin come with the tabs partially bent, so all you have to do is lay the frame on after priming etc ?
#8
Posted 26 June 2012 - 07:16 PM
helps prevent the electolitic corrosion between steel frame and alloy skin.
#9
Posted 26 June 2012 - 07:34 PM
dont forget to get the gasket that goes between the frame and skin
helps prevent the electolitic corrosion between steel frame and alloy skin.
i was given a roll of weird tape, its the same size as gaffer tape but thicker and stickier and has a bituminous look to it, i was told to use that....comes from the oil industry, i was also planning to use waxoyl, and not forgetting to run pipecleaners thro the 3 weepholes......
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


Sign In
Create Account








