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AYA repair bill


born_2_kill
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So as some of you know I have a loose gun where the for-end will fall off if using a heavy cartridge (without the fore-end the barrels are wobbly on the action), it's a AYA No3 Magnum 1984 and I've been quoted £200 to have it tightened which involves a new pin and quite a bit of time, is this expensive or normal? First time I've needed this kind of repair so I don't know what the norm is.....

Edited by born_2_kill
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About 3 hours to 4 hours very careful work providing it all comes apart ok. The hole in the action has to be reamed and an oversize pin made. Then a bit of filing and fitting to adjust the fit of the barrels and fore-end.

Doesnt sound to me like you are being ripped off. 28 years use of magnum loads seems a pretty fair reliability record.

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Earlier this year I paid over £700 to have John Dickson R/A rejointed, price included new firing pin, raising a small dent and engraving head of the new pin.

 

Blackpowder

 

that was your first mistake!

double anything you get quoted elsewhere

 

out of interest are the barrels loose on the action? (clearance between face and barrel)

I had a 20bore that dropped the fore-end occasionally, nothing more than a worn contact point on the barrel hook (the hook for the fore-end not the one for the action)

 

unless your barrels actually need rejointing that sounds like more work than is required

Edited by Bewsher500
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that was your first mistake!

double anything you get quoted elsewhere

 

out of interest are the barrels loose on the action? (clearance between face and barrel)

I had a 20bore that dropped the fore-end occasionally, nothing more than a worn contact point on the barrel hook (the hook for the fore-end not the one for the action)

 

unless your barrels actually need rejointing that sounds like more work than is required

Read op !

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that was your first mistake!

double anything you get quoted elsewhere

 

out of interest are the barrels loose on the action? (clearance between face and barrel)

 

Prior to the work being done the action was not excessively loose for shooting purposes. At the time the work was going to be done prior to having sleeved barrels fitted. At the end of the day I could not bear to part with the beautiful damascus barrels so abandoned the work and am content to shoot with 2 1/2 inch cartridges. I would call the cost of the re-jointing an investment considering the quality of the gun and its current value. In fact one gunsmith member here I was in touch with was of the opinion that had John Dickson been LOndon rather than Edinburgh based, Dickson rather than Purdey would be regarded as the premier British gunmaker.

 

Blackpowder

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I had an AYA Yeoman gifted to me earlier this year from a relation that was packing up. It really was horrible in terms of being completely off it's face to the extent that it rattled while you held it. Anyway there was no way i was risking shooting it in that state and my first thought was either to auction it PDQ or hand it in to get it cut up. After a lot of research on the internet and picking the brains of a few people on here (thanks, you know who you are) I decided to have a bash at rejointing it myself. I think it cost something like £60 which included the cost of two new hinge pins, a cheap set of vernia calipers and a bit of beer money for some advice. I terms of time, over about 3 days i think it took me about 3-4 hours doing a bit at a time with lots of checking measuring and chin rubbing. So I guess £200 would be a reasonable price to pay if your gun is worth what you say it is? Mine was worthless so it was well worth having a bash myself.... It's now lovely and tight and closes with a satisfying click.

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  • 3 years later...

Sorry for the resurrection of an ancient topic, I've just bought an AYA (from the PW guns for sale section) that's been fully overhauled. It has been rejointed. Just wondering whether this will weaken the gun or pose any problems in the future? Do I need to be more careful with it? Thanks.

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Providing the re-jointing has been carried out correctly and the correct grade of steel was used for the new pin; no, re-jointing will not weaken the gun or lead to future problems. AYAs are designed with a removable joint pin so that after considerable use or a regular diet of unsuitable cartridges like 2.75in magnums they can be readily be re-jointed.

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Providing the re-jointing has been carried out correctly and the correct grade of steel was used for the new pin; no, re-jointing will not weaken the gun or lead to future problems. AYAs are designed with a removable joint pin so that after considerable use or a regular diet of unsuitable cartridges like 2.75in magnums they can be readily be re-jointed.

+1

1964? There remains a chance that this is 2 & !/2" and if so, whereas 67 or 67.5mm cart's are deemed acceptable, I would be inclined to give the little lady a breather and as there is still a good choice available, stick with the 2 & 1/2" (65mm).

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Forget the market value of the gun, if you like it, shoot well with it and consider it a "keeper" then I would get it fixed. I spent 200 quid on my Silver Kestrel recently having some work done, which is probably more than the gun is worth but I am not planning on selling it.

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+1

1964? There remains a chance that this is 2 & !/2" and if so, whereas 67 or 67.5mm cart's are deemed acceptable, I would be inclined to give the little lady a breather and as there is still a good choice available, stick with the 2 & 1/2" (65mm).

 

Hi, I'm not sure I follow you. I have been told the following information, and you are right it is 2 1/2. What are the implications of this? I've read in some places it doesn't really matter if you use a 65mm or 67mm but not to use 70mm and in others that you can use 67mm with a light load and finally other views that you should only use 65mm. It will be a bit of a paint to have to buy in a slab of special cartridges. Would prefer to use normal length ones.

 

 

1 the chamber size is 2 1/2 (65ml )

2 the gun was re jointed, which was as a result of wear over its years of use .

The gun closes now like new and will not weaken or have any adverse effect on the gun.

3 The wall thickness is very good ,I can't give you a exact figure .

The gun is well in proof .

 

Forget the market value of the gun, if you like it, shoot well with it and consider it a "keeper" then I would get it fixed. I spent 200 quid on my Silver Kestrel recently having some work done, which is probably more than the gun is worth but I am not planning on selling it.

 

Hi, the original topic is on whether it's worth the cost, but the topic is some years old. My question related to a gun that has already been re-jointed and whether this will mean it's weak or prone to breakage in the future if over used.

Edited by OJW
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Hi, I'm not sure I follow you. I have been told the following information, and you are right it is 2 1/2. What are the implications of this? I've read in some places it doesn't really matter if you use a 65mm or 67mm but not to use 70mm and in others that you can use 67mm with a light load and finally other views that you should only use 65mm. It will be a bit of a paint to have to buy in a slab of special cartridges. Would prefer to use normal length ones.

 

 

1 the chamber size is 2 1/2 (65ml )

2 the gun was re jointed, which was as a result of wear over its years of use .

The gun closes now like new and will not weaken or have any adverse effect on the gun.

3 The wall thickness is very good ,I can't give you a exact figure .

The gun is well in proof .

 

 

Hi, the original topic is on whether it's worth the cost, but the topic is some years old. My question related to a gun that has already been re-jointed and whether this will mean it's weak or prone to breakage in the future if over used.

Hi,

If I thought that there were implications regarding 2 & 1/2" chambers, I wouldn't have spent in excess of £12K buying several over the years. The only reason I suggested sticking with 65mm is because when fired a 67/67.5mm cartridge will start to open into the chamber forcing cone. This in itself is not a problem but if the cartridge is a tad lively then the pressure can creep up a bit (as it will with a pokey 65mm one). Again not a problem except in terms of possible longevity of the gun and a sore shoulder for the Gun. I note your bullet point 3 which is why I mentioned about weight in the other thread.

You've got a very nice gun at a very favourable price - enjoy. :yes::good:

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My response was in reply to your recent post and still stands. I think some are responding to the original post that started this thread.

I cannot see from your post where the date of the gun or chamber length question originates from.

 

If in fact your gun has 2.5in. chambers you can use 65mm or 67mm cartridges. I have a box of Hull, High Pheasant 30 gram loads in front of me

that clearly states for use in 2.5in chambers or longer. What you should avoid is 70mm cartridges which require a 2.75in. chamber.

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Hi,

If I thought that there were implications regarding 2 & 1/2" chambers, I wouldn't have spent in excess of £12K buying several over the years. The only reason I suggested sticking with 65mm is because when fired a 67/67.5mm cartridge will start to open into the chamber forcing cone. This in itself is not a problem but if the cartridge is a tad lively then the pressure can creep up a bit (as it will with a pokey 65mm one). Again not a problem except in terms of possible longevity of the gun and a sore shoulder for the Gun. I note your bullet point 3 which is why I mentioned about weight in the other thread.

You've got a very nice gun at a very favourable price - enjoy. :yes::good:

 

Thanks, for the advice. I haven't been able to inspect it but am confident it will all be ok. I'm glad you think it's a favourable price as well. The seller was/ is a good chap.

 

 

 

My response was in reply to your recent post and still stands. I think some are responding to the original post that started this thread.

I cannot see from your post where the date of the gun or chamber length question originates from.

 

If in fact your gun has 2.5in. chambers you can use 65mm or 67mm cartridges. I have a box of Hull, High Pheasant 30 gram loads in front of me

that clearly states for use in 2.5in chambers or longer. What you should avoid is 70mm cartridges which require a 2.75in. chamber.

 

I wasn't quoting your response JJsDad, I quoted Wingman. Sorry for the confusion. Thank you for both your posts. very useful.

Edited by OJW
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There is a difference between re-jointing and tightening .It also depends on the gun ,the way its made and what is the best way to do the necessary work . Frequently Spanish guns have very little lead on the bolt so the bite needs to be welded up . It is also common with knock in joint pins that they come loose and wear an elliptical hole in the action for example .

Other guns all have their own problems and peculiarities that need a particular method of correction . It all comes down to time and the experience of the man doing the work . I speak as one who has tightened and re-jointed hundreds of guns of every kind from the cheap and nasty to guns worth many thousands.

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