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Happy to report the acquisition of 1946 Ithaca Model 37 as project gun. Not sure about plans yet, but it is currently Section 2, 28" full choke, all functionality seems ok, Wood is very good (fore-end seems later date) most metal finish is gone but engraving is all there. Very happy bunny!

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Happy to report the acquisition of 1946 Ithaca Model 37 as project gun. Not sure about plans yet, but it is currently Section 2, 28" full choke, all functionality seems ok, Wood is very good (fore-end seems later date) most metal finish is gone but engraving is all there. Very happy bunny!

Result! Not jealous at all, at all... :D

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Happy to report the acquisition of 1946 Ithaca Model 37 as project gun.

At the risk of teaching my grandmother to suck eggs, don't forget: read manual *before* disassembling. (Stock comes off *first*.)

 

Have fun with your new "baby".

 

Regards,

 

Mark.

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At the risk of teaching my grandmother to suck eggs, don't forget: read manual *before* disassembling. (Stock comes off *first*.)

 

Have fun with your new "baby".

 

Regards,

 

Mark.

 

 

At the risk of teaching my grandmother to suck eggs, don't forget: read manual *before* disassembling. (Stock comes off *first*.)

 

Have fun with your new "baby".

 

Regards,

 

Mark.

 

Duly noted! despite my excitement at finding this one I shall be taking it easy, I have a few days off after Christmas and will start project then. I have some doubles to sell or swap (for pumps!) so have to photograph every thing properly. I may call upon your knowledge if I run into snags if it is not too inconvenient

 

Best regards

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Duly noted!

If'n youse doesn't take the stock off first, then you risk bugg ^H^H^H^H damaging the trigger plate screw when you tries to take it out.

 

I may call upon your knowledge if I run into snags if it is not too inconvenient

You are welcome. Please keep us (the "Pigeon Watch Collective") posted, on this thread, about how you get on.

 

Regards,

 

Mark.

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Hi I've just purchased a pump winchester sxp. Regarding cleaning and cleaning kits has anyone got any recommendations? Are bore snakes any good?

 

Little, its all very personal, but I prefer a solid 3 piece rod with a phosphor bronze brush, mop and plastic jag. (amazon about 12 quid) For patches, I raid the wife's old linen (no fluff) tea towels and cut them into 3" squares. I use fairly stiff artists paint brushes to get in the nooks and crannies. For lube I use Napier gun cleaner and Napier gun oil. You may get loads of different replies, find what works for you!

By the way welcome to Pump Club enjoy the Winnie and post a pic!

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I agree with you re. the stock first, have you seen the strange you tube clip where a chap takes off the stock by removing the trigger assembly with stock attached ? very odd.

Not seen that video. Doing it as you describe, he should've had a huge amount of trouble undoing the trigger plate screw, unless he slackened the stock bolt first.

 

It can be a bit fiddly puting the stock back on if'n youse doesn't keep the stock bolt in position when it's off of the gun. When I disassemble *my* M37s, I tend to take the stock off and then rest it upright, with the bolt still in place, until I refit it. Also, I'd recommend using a long socket spanner rather than a long screw-driver, assuming that the stock bolt gives you the choice. (Do not *arsk* what a palaver it is to fit the Choate plastic stocks...)

 

Regards,

 

Mark.

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Further on from earlier discussion regarding safe flags in bottom eject pumps and after whittling away on a nice piece of beech that I had in the shed and then managed to break on test #1 (picking up pump by fore-end, muzzle up) I reverted to my hunting ground of domestic materials and returned to the humble coat-hanger! Using a fairly thick (about 1/4 in) plastic donor I chopped off one side, with a little heat made the bend for the chamber side and pushed a piece of rubber tube on the bolt side. A bit of ribbon tied in the middle and gaffa tape to protect gun from scratching. Test #1 passed with both the M37 and the heavier BPS. The natural tension in the plastic keeps the flag in place and is sufficient to resist the forward movement of the bolt. Test #2put into Hatstand Semi auto and release bolt, it stayed in place and did not break. A cheap (free, almost) clear indication of gun condition and prevention of accidental action closure, particularly when in the company of peers who have never seen a bottom ejector.

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Edited by impala59
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Evening all,

Having sold my Winchester '97 last Jan after a 39yr romance, recently acquired an Ithaca M37 after a lot of searching. Being a left-hooker it suits me fine, but can have problems extracting fired cases.

I understand this is not an uncommon problem, any suggestions of cartridges which function 100% of the time please?

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Evening all,

Having sold my Winchester '97 last Jan after a 39yr romance, recently acquired an Ithaca M37 after a lot of searching. Being a left-hooker it suits me fine, but can have problems extracting fired cases.

I understand this is not an uncommon problem, any suggestions of cartridges which function 100% of the time please?

 

Hi good to see another Ithaca out there. I have just got my Ithaca and although only put a few through it so far I had no problems. I was using cheap 28g 7 1/2s from Forseys in Kent. My previous M37 also digested the cheap cartridges better. I avoided Eley as the "English" profile of the rim seemed to allow the extractors to ride over it leaving the cartridge in the chamber. ( particularly in a hot gun) Paper cartridges seem to work very well in M37's. When Mark "ChAoS" gets on line I am sure he will have many answers and solutions! He is the M37 Guru!

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I'm looking to purchase a pump as a rough gun that I will never sell again, I would like it to be multi choke and have as short barel as possible for ease of use in tight spaces (not sure what the minimum barel size is!if someone could clear that up for me?)

 

What do people recommend?

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I'm looking to purchase a pump as a rough gun that I will never sell again, I would like it to be multi choke and have as short barel as possible for ease of use in tight spaces (not sure what the minimum barel size is!if someone could clear that up for me?)

 

What do people recommend?

 

Min barrel length 24" Min overall length 40" You will get loads of differing advice on this forum but for multi choke look at the Hatsans, Winchesters, Revo's, Benelli's and Remingtons. There are endless possibilities out there, it depends on your budget and the aesthetic appeal of different looks, traditional wood and blued metal or modern plastics with camo duracoat etc. Look back on this forum as each brand has its supporters. At least you are on the right track in looking for a pump in the first place! Good luck!

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I'm looking to purchase a pump as a rough gun that I will never sell again, I would like it to be multi choke and have as short barel as possible for ease of use in tight spaces (not sure what the minimum barel size is!if someone could clear that up for me?)

 

What do people recommend?

 

Winchester SXP 26" barrel and synthetic stock. Around £350 new, great gun.
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allow the extractors to ride over it leaving the cartridge in the chamber. ( particularly in a hot gun)

This is exactly the poblem that I had with my S1 M37.

 

I found that a damned good cleanin' with a bit of *fine* wire wool on a jag chucked in an electric drill sorted the men out from the boys. I now clean the chamber of the M37 *and* my Chiappa 1887 using a bronze *barrel* brush chucked in the drill and have few problems, these days.

 

However, my main gun's slide stop (http://ithacagun.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=72) is currently being lengthed by a friend - the gun wouldn't fire when the forend was held back due, I think, to the end of the slide stop being very worn. Before I try altering the extractor profiles or honing the chamber in order to effect a *final* "cure" for the failures-to-extract, I'm going to fix the "sloppy action" problem in case *that* has a bearing on the problem.

 

Request - can those of you with M37s try this for me: Close and lock the action. Pull back on the forend and, using feeler guages, measure the "slack" between the *front* of the slide stop and the *rear* of the slide (http://ithacagun.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=51). (On my working gun, I get 30 thou wheras on the "sloppy" gun, 60 thou.)

 

He is the M37 Guru!

[blushes] Absolutely *not*.

 

I strongly recommend that *anyone* with an M37 consults the *real* M37 gurus by joining this forum:

 

http://www.ithacaowners.com

 

There are some *very* knowledgeable people on there.

 

Regards,

 

Mark.

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Mark, I have 60 thou and whilst the slide is quite "loose" it will fire whether held back or forward, The bolt however is solid in battery. The slide stop seems to be a bit strange on some M37's, very little movement on some (like mine) and about a quarter inch of movement (at the knurled front edge) as on a friends section 1

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I have 60 thou and whilst the slide is quite "loose" it will fire whether held back or forward

Interesting. I was, o'course, expecting everyone else to say "30 thou". That's another theory shot down in flames... :)

 

The slide stop seems to be a bit strange on some M37's, very little movement on some (like mine) and about a quarter inch of movement (at the knurled front edge) as on a friends section 1

As Mr Spock would say, "fascinating".

 

I seem to remember that my *slide* is fairly loose; can't remember about the slide *stop*.

 

Right now, my S.1 is working OK because I swapped the trigger mech from my S.2 into the S.1. The S.1 mech is currently being extended at the slide stop by a buddy. When he gives it back, it'll be interesting to compare the "wobbliness" of my parts.

 

I recall reading - *somewhere* on t'Internet - that one should *not* do the trigger plate screw up too tight before re-fitting the stock. The screw doesn't *have* to be tight, of course, since it has a fair amount of sideways force applied as the stock bolt is tightened. Anyhoo, the idea was that over tightening the screw may crimp the cheeks of the receiver together causing Bad Things to happen. (Or, at least, reliability to decrease.)

 

Finally, I've gotta say that I never really know how much to tighten the stock up - I've read that over- *or* under-tightening is a Bad Thing to do. (And both can lead to the dreaded "Ithaca Crack", *allegedly*.)

 

Still, gotta love dem M37s. :)

 

Regards,

 

Mark.

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Paper cartridges seem to work very well in M37's.

This is what I found with both the M37s, including Steve's, that I have owned. I think I have recently read that plastic 2-1/2" cartridges give less trouble that 2-3/4" plastic cartridges. Several years ago, someone on here recommended Hull Special Pigeon, and they certainly did better than any others I had tried, but I didn't fire many.

Edited by rjimmer
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