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Very low light CCTV NV DIY build


Dave-G
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This is very picture heavy!

Very low light CCTV camera's have hurtled forwards in capability over the last year or so. When used with an SLR lens they can greatly surpass what a rear add-on rifle scope user would be able to see when using zero artificial light to maximize their covert potential. Here is one way to build a DIY one that has all the wiring internal unless a DVR is used because they have a side entry AV IN port.

I am assuming DIY builders have a degree of savvy to figure the small bits in between the main instructions I post and that they can solder or connect wires as needed and figure simple circuits. If not I can supply ready built - excluding batteries so I don't get sued if they go bang. icon_e_biggrin.gif


The best performing practical bullet cam available at this time is the KT&C EJ230 camera - which has a built in OSD menu joystick on the rear of it. Price about £95 from SURE24.


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It's a colour day/night camera that will perform much better in very low light conditions if we remove the IR block filter from in front of the CCD sensor and use it in B&W mode. The filter is the smaller rose colour piece of glass seen here:

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Prise a craft knife under a corner, it lifts off much easier than most other brands of camera as the glue is soft and only around the edges:

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We don't want all that cable to try and hide - so lop most of it off. As the current is very low I prefer to use strip connectors as they are easy to work with - and allow simple revisions to the build:

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That bullet camera is going to slip-fit inside this 30mm O/D tube after wrapping it with two turns (ish) of Gaffer tape or masking tape. When positioned correctly a small grub screw in the plain aluminum tube nips up on it to retain position. The 30mm tube with a weaver rail adapter is £30 from me:

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Fit your 30mm medium or high scope mounts to your scope rail with their tops off and feel if there is any noticeable difference between the scope seats. Some are very good but some are quite badly mismatched. If one has a higher seat put that to the rear to provide a little elevation drop.

If they are level bung a piece of masking tape or two onto the rear seat for now because that may need more or less to place the horizontal cross hair about mid way up the screen. Masking tape is better than vinyl tape for this as it doesn't go squidgy and sticky. You can maybe find some self adhesive shim material - or use adjustable scope mounts/inserts. Either way involves maybe two or three attempts to get a reasonably central crosshair TBH:

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This is an outside textured project 'box' that a 4'7" ~5" flat backed screen or DVR will form the cover of to keep all the wiring out of sight. It's fitted directly behind the 30mm tube and retained in the rear part of the rear mount. Unfortunately it's more expensive than planned because the part that fits into the mount had to be machined and welded to the box afterwards. It costs £60. Total cost this far is about £180 assuming you had the mounts.

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Place the 'C' mount tube and neck of the project box into your mounts and fit the tops. You can nip the front ones up as tight as you dare to carry the tube but the rear mount shouldn't be wrenched quite as tight:

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Fit the supplied weaver rail adapter for your IR, back the EJ230 camera inside the tube and fit an M42 to 'C' mount adapter and your chosen SLR lens, probably found on ebay for under £50. position the camera tube forwards against the rear of the M42 to 'C' mount adapter, ensuring the joystick is at the lowest it can go which places the sensor horizontal and the screen image square.

Total cost so far less that £250. You probably already have an IR illuminator:

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Decide on your power supply. One of these has an 1800MAH battery pack with the switch facing out through a cut out in the side of the box, another has a DC in supply. I found two unprotected ex-laptop 18650 cells last for over three hours constant run time of the camera and TFT monitor - much longer can be got if you use a 5" DVR because that is self powered. The battery or carrier can be fitted using velcro - or permanently glued with hot melt glue. That stuff is quite stringy...

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A monitor costs about £15 - cost so far is about £270 - add a few plugs and an on/off switch - about £280.
This one is wired for using a 5" DVR which simplifies the build a tad. Costs about £120 off the bay: Cost so far less than £400. including an on/off switch and DVR AV-IN lead (SURE24 make a brilliant one)
http://www.sure24.co.uk/sure-lddcjpra2- ... ing-lead-1


The screen needs to be flat backed to fit on this box without fouling the batteries. I removed the lugs off the back of the monitor here and cropped the cable, soldering both leads inside to save space. Note the Velcro on the rear of the screens:

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That is needed so you can remove the screen to fit batteries and to allow the user to position it higher whilst using both hands to access the joystick to zero the rifle. The 'wings' on the box have the mating velco fitted to them:

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Ready for use:

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Here is a video about how to use the privacy zones in the OSD to generate and zero the rifle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2J_lxlN5T4

And what you should end up with:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--mQeb-RzgI

And how you can expect it to perform:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMrHaSIfeUY

Can be made into a hand held spotter:

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Also good for a roof or dash mounted spotter, using a cigar lighter power supply - or self powered to leave somewhere using the motion detect facility of the camera to record things:

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With which you might need a roof mounted magnetic IR:

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If I've missed out anything - or been a bit too dyslexic please let me know. icon_e_biggrin.gif

Edited by Dave-G
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How easy is it viewing the screen quickly? Looked a little bit slow to get set but a very well put together piece.

The monitor and DVR have decent viewing angles - suited to the typical angle you would use while holding the rifle on the door mirror bracket and driving with your left hand. That's easy for me to say 'cos my 4WD is an auto. I'm slightly dyslexic and often don't say quite what I mean so I find a few images help me say it:

 

Head up viewing and shooting position in my shooting wagon.

 

DSCF1028_zps825ca98f.jpg[/url

 

In-line or cheek-weld shooting position:

 

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If you are using it as a dash or roof mounted spotter you will need an external IR source. Here is a T20 IR fitted into a mag-mount clamp. It is very driver driver adjustable:

 

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EDIT: I'm not sure if you meant how quick it is to prepare for use?

 

The rig is a dedicated one - and integral if you like with no exposed cables if using a 4'7" monitor. Here is an all round view:

 

 

I'm off to work now.

Edited by Dave-G
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Hi Dave-G

Thanks for shareing and what an exellent job.I have been using the EJ230 couples wit NM800 IR for a while now but as an add on.I am interested in trying scopless, but was wondering if its possible to create mil dots.I think I have heard Rolaids from the States stating yoh can in one of his videos.

Edited by Davyo
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Hi Dave-G

Thanks for shareing and what an exellent job.I have been using the EJ230 couples wit NM800 IR for a while now but as an add on.I am interested in trying scopless, but was wondering if its possible to create mil dots.I think I have heard Rolaids from the States stating yoh can in one of his videos.

Yes... but I'm not clever enough for that - and never liked mildots anyway. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it. :)

 

Here's what someone on the NVF did:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwIXpcd_ork

 

And here is what Roland did;

 

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:good:

 

Can you detach the sreen to dashboard mount so the image tranfers digitally to the dashboard screen while your hand is on the trigger on the windows edge?

Yes. The box could have an RCA out socket fitted to it so you just need to plug in a video extension cable.

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can i ask what lens you are using please and what focal length is best,thanks and great job, wayne

A very good question Wayne. :good:

 

I used a 75mm F1:1.4 lens for that drive round video. That seems to be a rare and fairly expensive option - likewise 105mm ones.

 

I found it kind of simple to relate that to ideal size for 75 yard average range shots before a rabbit head gets too small at longer ranges, and quarry/search acquisition at the closer ranges. 35mm, 50mm and 135mm lenses are much more widely available - and much cheaper too.

 

It may be feasible that 35mm would suit 12ftlb air ranges and 50mm might well suit average subsonic ranges. 135mm will be needed if attempting rabbit head shots over 100 yards, so consider that for 17 HMR if you like to stretch it out. I don't use my 17REM for NV but would imagine a 200mm lens would be needed.

 

I'm no photography buff and it has been explained to me about why 50/135 lenses are widely available but I'm still not much wiser about that. Perhaps some photography buff on here can explain that for us?

 

DO NOT use zoom lenses unless you can lock up the zoom function because the zero will float too much.

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dave,, looking at your roof mounted ir,,have you started using the T20 now and not the 501b ?

 

cheers Evo

I still favour a 501b IR for fixed mag dedicated digital NVD's. I think that needs qualifying though. :)

 

I'd use a T20 with a rear add-on to a variable scope if shooting over 100 yards - except I ain't used an add-on for probably a year now mate. I don't knock anyone for using add-ons because they are more versatile for a shooter who needs night and day from the same rifle(s), and they can be zoomed too.

 

For sheer outright bag filling performance at subsonic ranges where being more covert is most beneficial I feel dedicated digital rigs have a massive edge for those who can dedicate a rifle to primarily night use. I don't mean just home builds but the likes of Photon, N550, N750, drone Pro, that black magic box one etc. All can be used at subsonic range with either no IR when there is more than half moon, or post dusk/pre dawn, or just a compact low power IR on the darkest nights. This type of rig simply doesn't need a T20 because they are much more able to see in very low light - like wot CCTV NV was designed to do. B)

I recommend A T-20 for any NVD that can be zoomed back to a wider view than a fixed mag NV would allow. I say that because a spotter would generally be made with a wider lens than a rifle borne NV sight. We can't see eyeshine outside of the rifle's NV viewfinder though so it's counter productive to shine it where we can't see what quarry is looking at it. I am unaware of any current zoomable dedicated NV rifle sight.

 

 

OOPS - rambling on there a bit. :oops:

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Hi Dave-G

Thanks for shareing and what an exellent job.I have been using the EJ230 couples wit NM800 IR for a while now but as an add on.I am interested in trying scopless, but was wondering if its possible to create mil dots.I think I have heard Rolaids from the States stating yoh can in one of his videos.

Thank you Davyo, that nm will be well OTT for a scopeless or spotting rig my 'ansome: Not as in the rig won't handle it - but that the rig simply won't need such a bright and bulky thing - so you can be more covert and therefore more successful. ISTR NM does a more compact IR if you particularly like the brand.

 

It's difficult to convince someone who has needed a powerful IR to combat the losses that are unavoidable when a low light CCTV camera is forced to settle for what can be sucked through a scope with several lenses that are coated to produce optimum results with daytime wavelengths and a small exit pupil (iris if you like)

 

As a rough idea of what you can expect to improve on - take that camera and lens off the back of your scope and prepare to be amazed at what you can stalk up on - and sometimes even shoot with no IR.

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Thanks mate,this is what I am using at the moment with the NM800.It accounted for 774 rabbits last year,the reason i have the monitor on an extension is due to my eye sight.I agree the NM can be a bit OTT,if the NM is on high beam and the beam on the narrow square setting it even whites out at 80mtrs.However if I widen out the beam its perfect from 20mtrs out to 200mtrs.One of the questions I wanted to ask was, I wear glasses for reading so when I look through my scope ( no add on) I can see the cross hairs nice and clear,but when I use the NV monitor I have to use my glasses?So I have to have the screen about 6" minimum away from my eyes but still require the glasses.So the big problem I will have is the generated cross hair and the positioning of the screen.

i am using.22lr by the way.

post-30855-0-49983800-1400139167_thumb.jpg

Edited by Davyo
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Thanks mate,this is what I am using at the moment with the NM800.It accounted for 774 rabbits last year,the reason i have the monitor on an extension is due to my eye sight.I agree the NM can be a bit OTT,if the NM is on high beam and the beam on the narrow square setting it even whites out at 80mtrs.However if I widen out the beam its perfect from 20mtrs out to 200mtrs.One of the questions I wanted to ask was, I wear glasses for reading so when I look through my scope ( no add on) I can see the cross hairs nice and clear,but when I use the NV monitor I have to use my glasses?So I have to have the screen about 6" minimum away from my eyes but still require the glasses.So the big problem I will have is the generated cross hair and the positioning of the screen.

i am using.22lr by the way.

That's a classic sign of excessive IR TBH: What YOU see with the wider zoom is a better image because it moderates the amount of light the sensor sees: But the bunnies outside of your NV viewing area see your wasted peripheral light - whilst your eyes are unable to spot their IR eyeshine. If it was red light you would be able to see the eyeshine as you shoulder the rifle, so you acquire and shoot it. Unseen by you, those eyes learn about IR light making a bit of a pop as one of his mates gets it in the head. :oops:

 

You made a much better slip on~slip off rig than the one I made - which is what opened my eyes to the 'no-scope' potential:

 

 

I'm of the mind you have already tried that device off the scope - yes? :yes:

 

 

 

 

I have a similar eyesight/reading glasses issue, needing the monitor further away than you. This rig was all about getting all the components into one integral unit with the monitor far enough away from my eyes to focus on, yet also allow both a head up shooting stance and a cheek weld one.

 

The rig is built onto the front part of the dovetail rail - which puts the monitor just above the rear part of a rifle breech. That is easy peasy to focus on, being further away from your eyes than the one you currently use at 10.5".

 

DSCF1040_zps3e2a6303.jpg

Edited by Dave-G
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Cheers,would it be a good idea to take it off the scope and create a cross hair in the menu and see if I can see it ok.Thanks for your comments on my rig but setting it up was easy,I cant take any credit for the build as I only bought the parts and assembled.The clever bit (the knowledge, research)was done by the likes of youself and evo,I like many others just simply ordered the parts and knocked it up.I will try the cross hair thing tomorrow as I am out with the NV on an all nighter tonight.

Many thanks Dave

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Cheers,would it be a good idea to take it off the scope and create a cross hair in the menu and see if I can see it ok.Thanks for your comments on my rig but setting it up was easy,I cant take any credit for the build as I only bought the parts and assembled.The clever bit (the knowledge, research)was done by the likes of youself and evo,I like many others just simply ordered the parts and knocked it up.I will try the cross hair thing tomorrow as I am out with the NV on an all nighter tonight.

Many thanks Dave

Great try before you buy idea.

 

Once you have built it you can just switch it off rather than not save it. Be advised to save it if you get distracted for a few minutes - I'm not sure of the default menu turn off time.

 

I finally settled on three pixel wide crosshairs - which is about half the diameter of a well focused rabbit eye at 50 yards ish.

Edited by Dave-G
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Dunno why my last photo went AWOL but here it is again because I can't edit that post - the monitor is 10.5" away from my eye to focus on easily:

 

DSCF1040_zpsc9282ba2.jpg

 

Here's a peek at the first one I've built for somebody:

 

Edited by Dave-G
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  • 4 weeks later...

A very good question Wayne. :good:

 

I used a 75mm F1:1.4 lens for that drive round video. That seems to be a rare and fairly expensive option - likewise 105mm ones.

 

I found it kind of simple to relate that to ideal size for 75 yard average range shots before a rabbit head gets too small at longer ranges, and quarry/search acquisition at the closer ranges. 35mm, 50mm and 135mm lenses are much more widely available - and much cheaper too.

 

It may be feasible that 35mm would suit 12ftlb air ranges and 50mm might well suit average subsonic ranges. 135mm will be needed if attempting rabbit head shots over 100 yards, so consider that for 17 HMR if you like to stretch it out. I don't use my 17REM for NV but would imagine a 200mm lens would be needed.

 

I'm no photography buff and it has been explained to me about why 50/135 lenses are widely available but I'm still not much wiser about that. Perhaps some photography buff on here can explain that for us?

 

DO NOT use zoom lenses unless you can lock up the zoom function because the zero will float too much.

Hi Dave if I wanted a lens for foxing say 75 - 150 yards what sort of lens would you recommend ??

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A 75mm lens would suffice for sub 100 yards on fox size quarry.

 

You'd need a 105 or 135mm lens with as low an F stop number as possible, the 135mm being much more affordable for the 150 yards. However at those ranges with a longer lens you will need to use IR a lot more often. Longer range quarry will not generally be as alerted by IR, nor does it hear or smell the stalker as easily so IMO there is less advantage for the longer range shooter with scopeless rigs. Digital is getting better all the time and I'm of the opinion it WILL get even closer to gen two or gen three before long.

 

This type of rig has its best covert gains over scoped rigs for air and rimfire ranges where using little or no light is most important for easily spooked quarry.

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