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Magpies - Larsen Trap Advice please?


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OK Guys, I've never used lasren traps before so I am going to have to ask for advice, and some of my questions may seem a little stupid but I guess that if you don't ask you will quite likely never know. To give you a better idea of what I am up against and my reason for chosing to use larsen traps I will give you a quick run down on the situation that I am faced with so that you can best advise me:

The permission is only a 5 minute drive from my home so regular visits to it are no problem at all, and consists of about 100 acres with about 30 acres of that being woodland. The landowner is trying to make the land (Especially the woodland) as wildlife friendly as possible, especially for the songbirds and the roe deer that frequent this woodland ( I was there with my 12 bore yesterday morning and got to within about 20 yards from a Roe Buck in magnificent condition - And NO, before anyone says anything I would never dream of taking a shot with a shotgun at any deer). She had quite a lot of poultry (Mainly rare breeds) which she keeps in large fenced off enclosures (To protect them from foxes). All is going well and over the last few years I have shot a few foxes along with quite a lot of magpies, corvids and wood pigeons there. However this year there seems to be an epidemic of magpies about that area. Some of the magpies have even been going into the poultry sheds and pinching the eggs while others are waiting for her to put her cats food out and then they come down and chase the cat off and feast off the cat food - The cat is next to useless (Maybe just a bit of a coward) as it just runs off when any magpie swoops down at it! Basically these magpies are becoming a real pain in the backside and she has asked me to do whatever I can (Legally) to thin them right down.

The poultry sheds/enclosures are on the back lawn and are within about 25 yards from her house - so using my shotgun that close to the house raises safety issues as well as the noise issue. On top of this she has horseand ponies with foals and some sheep in the field nearest the house which I would prefer not to disturb with the noise from a shotgun - I have thought about a hushpower 410 but I really don't want to/can't really afford to go to that expence at the moment. With that in mind the only real option seems to me to use a couple of Larsen traps which I am just finishing construction.

After studying the legal requirements relating to larsen traps and their use so here goes with a few questions I would like to ask the "more experienced amongst you"!

 

Question 1. When I am ready to start using the traps (The call bird situation is now in hand) how long would you want to leave any trapped birds in the traps before you go to "dispatch" them - Is a morning/afternoon/evening OK or should they be dispatched as soon as possible /immediately after they have been captured?

Question 2. How do you suggest that the trapped birds should be dispatched - Necking them or shooting them in the trap with an air rifle, and if you do shoot them in the trap will this disturb/effect your call bird?

Question 3. When the day is over how should you care for your call bird(s)? - Should they be taken into a stable (There is a spare stable available for me to use if I require it) and maybe put in a larger cage (I have a spare new very large wire dog cage available for this if need be) so that they can spread their wings a little and then be put back in the larsen trap the following morning morning ready for their next days "call of duty"?

Question 4. I have been told that you can simply just put a magpie in a cage (Obviously with protection from the weather, enough room for it to stretch its wings, a couple of perches and some food and water, etc) and this will likely bring other magpies in allowing you to shoot them - If I were to try this would it not just "educate" the other magpies and move them off to someone elses doorstep and create a problem for them/neighbours - Something that I would rather avoid?

 

I would welcome your advice and answers to the above 4 questions even though they might sound silly to some of you. I should add that I have made myself very well aware of the laws on using larsen traps so I am not asking about the "legalities" involved.

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Agreed - the BASC guide is pretty good.

 

I like to check morning and night - apart from that, I try to avoid going near the my larsen, so as not to make any magpies or jackdaws more wary than they already are.

Regards dispatch - you're supposed to do this out of sight of any call bird or other trapped birds - I neck them 20-30 yards away.

If you've got a larger cage that the call bird can be kept in, then go for it, if you feel happier then I see no issues with this.

 

One final point - don't get too attached to a call bird. It's difficult to judge when, but you do need to change the call bird.

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You need to check the trap every 24hrs by law, but more regularly is better if you can. Just dispatch any trapped birds when you check the trap. Each compartment can only catch one bird at a time, so if you have a lot to clear up, checking and re-setting at least twice a day will help.

 

I use a priest to dispatch trapped birds, as I find it quick and easy.

 

No need to put the call bird away at night, just leave it in the trap. It should have food, water, a perch and shelter as a legal requirement.

 

Its not legal to use a live decoy to attract birds to shoot

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Thanks for that Colin. That is exactly the sort of (very helpful) information I was after. Checking the traps twice a day ( Say lunchtime and early evening - at least, maybe early morning too) is no problem as they will be less than a 5 minute drive away from me and the lady who owns the land will call me if there are any birds that get captured while I am not there - We have an excellent working relationship with her and she is a very good friend of the family.

As for using a captive bird as a decoy - I was a little concerned about that so your answer to that one means it is definitely a No, No!

Many thanks! :good:

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You will probably find that you will catch quite a few quickly, then it will go a bit quiet. When this happens move the trap to different area, even moving it 100 yards can make a difference. Larsen's are a great way of controlling magpies and you will be able to thin them out fairly quickly, they are much more efficient than shooting.

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no need to put call bird away leave it in trap as said.

 

if they are coming to a certain place start trapping there, they are just leaving the nest now here.

 

if you have two traps worth putting in same vocal area but out of sight of each other they will talk and attract others

 

as said once it drys up move traps after a week of no signs

 

BASC do trapping code of practice with legal stuff.

 

I find they need a good go every 3rd year you will never be without the odd few. atb

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  • 5 weeks later...

I have had a call bird for a whole campaign but that is rare, usually they die or get a bit tame so dont fly around the catching compartment well, they need to be visible. Mate of mine changes his call bird with the new catch bird every time he gets one.

 

Colin and the others have hit the nails on the head, you must check at least once in 24 hours, normally I do 6-7am and if time again in the evening, and always carry a rifle. Quite often one of a pair has been caught and its mate is flapping round the trap trying to free it so will give you a shot if you are patient, stalking using a 4x4 is best. In one trap a few years ago I caught 6 maggies from a gang of 8 and a fox cub in 24 hours. Fox had gone in and killed a maggi that had been captured earlier, found it dead under the fox.

 

If you drop a dead rabbit into the trap to feed the decoy maggi you will attract fox cubs and it will smell like hell after a few days. Feed your call bird with pheasant pellets, if none available then dried cat food. A screw on lid glass jar kept close to the trap will hold a weeks worth and a 2L milk carton a few days of water. Saves carrying it every day.

 

The hard bit is getting your first bird, most shoots have now stopped trapping and knocked their decoys on teh head but there might be one around that can find you a bird. Next year I am going to try a plastic magpie decoy in the trap to get the first one.

 

A

Edited by Alycidon
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Yes, you've left it a bit late in the year to start, most people start at the end of March, but next year don't be tempted to start before then as your call bird will die of exposure overnight.

 

I put 2 perches in the call bird compartment, that way the bird will hop from one to the other, and it's that movement that attracts the others in.

 

I've had better results with traps that are kept elevated off the ground, (on pallets / bales / tyres etc), anything stable enough to keep the trap about 3 feet off the ground.

 

As others have said, don't get attached to one particular call bird, rotate them as often as you can, and don't shoot captured birds in the trap, take them out with a gloved hand, ('cos they peck..!) and neck them discretely away from the trap.

 

Good luck, and keep moving the traps around to as many different locations as you can, you'll be amazed at just how many you will catch, but you'll never catch them all..!!

 

Cat.

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Yes, you've left it a bit late in the year to start, most people start at the end of March, but next year don't be tempted to start before then as your call bird will die of exposure overnight.

 

I put 2 perches in the call bird compartment, that way the bird will hop from one to the other, and it's that movement that attracts the others in.

 

I've had better results with traps that are kept elevated off the ground, (on pallets / bales / tyres etc), anything stable enough to keep the trap about 3 feet off the ground.

 

As others have said, don't get attached to one particular call bird, rotate them as often as you can, and don't shoot captured birds in the trap, take them out with a gloved hand, ('cos they peck..!) and neck them discretely away from the trap.

 

Good luck, and keep moving the traps around to as many different locations as you can, you'll be amazed at just how many you will catch, but you'll never catch them all..!!

 

Cat.

 

2 perchs, raising the trap, move it about, I would agree with. Best results are usually 20 yards out from a big overgrown hedge.

 

Certainly wont die of expose in March in the Midlands unless up to my backside in snow, late March is a good time to start in my book as long as there is no snow,

 

A

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Always had best results using a call bird from outside the area ie a stranger,

 

Last week there had been something scratching under the trap, It is up on bricks one on each corner, the next maggy caught was killed and then put back in the trap, next morning there was a 1/2 grown fox caught, no sign of the dead maggy.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I find if I have a pair in the area and when I come to check the trap in the morning and have caught one of them I will usually leave trapped bird in there as find it gives me more chance of catching the mate, rather then dispatching it straight away. For this reason I also keep a bit off food and water in the catching compartments.

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You get a lot to start, then only an odd on etill about early July, then you get another influx of young birds.

 

After a few years of not trapping i ran an extended campaign, march to late August, had 175 maggies, about 30 crows and a couple of foxes.

 

Now running a traditional length campaign we have about 50 maggies and 20 or so crows most years,

 

A

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