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Starter Setup - Feedback Please


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Hi All,


I want to start to get into Pigeon shooting and am looking at the below gear to get me started.


Please can you give me some advice and feedback on the below. Cheers.






10 x below


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All of them should do the job, but personaly I would prefer flocked shells opposed to full bodied simply because of the bulk with full bodied decoys.

As you add more odds and bods and any gizmos to your kit as you progress in pigeon shooting, and if you have to walk quite a way to set up, carry weight and bulk can become fairly important if you puff like a steam train carrying the weight, but irrelevant if you can drive to the spot.

Edited by deny essex
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All of them should do the job, but personaly I would prefer flocked shells opposed to full bodied simply because of the bulk with full bodied decoys.

As you add more odds and bods and any gizmos to your kit as you progress in pigeon shooting, and if you have to walk quite a way to set up, carry weight and bulk can become fairly important if you puff like a steam train carrying the weight, but irrelevant if you can drive to the spot.

Cheers Deny Essex. I was looking at FUD's but wasn't see if they were any good.

 

How many decoys would you say you need minimum ?

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I agree with flocked shells being preferable to full body decoys, unless you are able to drive up to your hide, or have a very good back.

You also don't want all of your decoys in feeding mode.

10-12 decoys to start is fine, you can always add dead birds to your pattern (or replace the decoys with them), if you need to.

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For the weight and bulk reasons both in decoys and myself I have changed to FUD's although modified as they come with a lump of steel attached which is heavy and near to useless in hard ground.

And as cranfield says 10 to 12 decoys is fine for a start, add real birds as shot and slowly change imitation for real.

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In what way do you modify the fuds don't suppose there are any videos of modified decoys

Push the steel through the top of the FUD and cut through it and send it to scrap, a piece of rod similar to a bike spoke thickness and cut to whatever length you fancy, allowing for a reasonable grounding length, bend over at the top in a "U" shape to fit inside between the centre rivet or between the head of the FUD.

As a note a much lighter piece of rod with some whip in it made in the same fashion and used in the head can also allow the FUD to turn with the wind and bob about adding movement.

Search DIY there are FUD mods in there.

Edited by deny essex
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Push the steel through the top of the FUD and cut through it and send it to scrap, a piece of rod similar to a bike spoke thickness and cut to whatever length you fancy, allowing for a reasonable grounding length, bend over at the top in a "U" shape to fit inside between the centre rivet or between the head of the FUD.

As a note a much lighter piece of rod with some whip in it made in the same fashion and used in the head can also allow the FUD to turn with the wind and bob about adding movement.

Search DIY there are FUD mods in there.

thanks il try that
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FUD's do work, not necessarily better than anything else but they do work.

Sometimes when I have a couple of hours to spare but don't want to drag my whole kit out I'll take just 6 FUD's clipped to my rucksack along with a couple of boxes of cartridges out to one of our Pheasant covers and usually manage quite a few birds so they're handy to have.

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For the weight and bulk reasons both in decoys and myself I have changed to FUD's although modified as they come with a lump of steel attached which is heavy and near to useless in hard ground.

And as cranfield says 10 to 12 decoys is fine for a start, add real birds as shot and slowly change imitation for real.

Do you find there is any real need to take artificial decoys in, once you have shot a few dead birds?

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