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wildfowl chokes


cav123
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Assuming the gun is made for steel

For duck it depends if you're flighting tideline or on a splash. If splash I would usually only use 32 grm no 5 or even 6 will be fine. If tideline heavier load. I don't use a full choke on steel max I use is 3/4. As fenboy said full chokes for steel are rare and even then I would take professional guidance before using.

Geese heaviest load your gun will take with number 3 or lower and as I said 3/4 choke

Hope that helps

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Assuming the gun is made for steel

For duck it depends if you're flighting tideline or on a splash. If splash I would usually only use 32 grm no 5 or even 6 will be fine. If tideline heavier load. I don't use a full choke on steel max I use is 3/4. As fenboy said full chokes for steel are rare and even then I would take professional guidance before using.

Geese heaviest load your gun will take with number 3 or lower and as I said 3/4 choke

Hope that helps

Its not the full choke thats rare it getting one to fit a versamax , plenty of shooters I know use full and even extra full with steel and have no issues.

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Its not the full choke thats rare it getting one to fit a versamax , plenty of shooters I know use full and even extra full with steel and have no issues.

OK thanks fenboy.

I was always under the impression that full chokes was usually a no no. I shoot with a browning and the full choke is marked up not for steel. I thought also is my son's beretta, but I'll check and get back to you.

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I must admit the Beretta chokes are not marked up not for Steel

What has always made me believe not to use full choke is as per the article I have included below. These are not my words.

 

No problem. With steel shot you would use one choke size LARGER. If you want a full choke type pattern ( 70 % in a 30 inch circle at 30 yards ) you use a modified choke. if you want a modified pattern use the improved cylinder.

Don't use the full or extra full. This is because when using lead shot it deforms, and fits through the choke, steel shot does not deform, it remains rigid. The first indication of a problem will be a slight bulge in the barrel right behind the choke. Check that once in a while, if you ever have that problem, it is not drastic if caught early.

I was one of the three guys who did the work to make steel shot loading data. The same that everyone including manufacturers still use to this day. When we began steel shot was ONLY used by reloaders. We even had to design our own plastic wads to use.

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Fenboy have a look at the link below. Look at the para 'steel shot'

May help clarify

 

http://www.trulockchokes.com/faqs.php

I cannot access the link as I am at work and it blocks most things firearms related .

My Versamax is rated as steel proof even for full choke , as I said I know plentry of shooters who use full or tightter without issue .

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I cannot access the link as I am at work and it blocks most things firearms related .

My Versamax is rated as steel proof even for full choke , as I said I know plentry of shooters who use full or tightter without issue .

Hi fenboy. Maybe worth checking though when you get the chance. Better to be safe than sorry.ATB

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I will be sure to have a look , but I have had enough steel through the gun now to be fully confident in putting it through the light full I use .

I think too many people get their knickers in a twist over the use of steel shot and the chokes it can go through safely.

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I have read somewhere that some manufacturers do make full chokes for steel but I believe they are not that common. In saying that materials are improving all the time and maybe technology has overtaken me. I learn something everyday, that is the beauty of these forums. However would still urge anyone not certain to seek professional guidance before using full choke on steel.

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You can over choke steel, so it will pattern outside its truly lethal energy range. IMO you need but two chokes one about half for flighting geese and shooting the tide and dawn flight for slightly more rangey duck with shot size 3 up to BBB depending on quarry and one about 1/4 for ducks over the decoys with shot size 3 to 5.

 

Given the choice of but one choke I should shoot everything with 1/2. Its the best do all and you can also modify your loads to what you are doing, it isn't all about restriction at the muzzle end.

 

I once doubted after market chokes and still find some marketing claims laughable but I do find that extending the length of the choke produces more even and regular patterns and porting although it makes the gun much louder does help muzzle clime. I have been using a Kicks modified for a couple of seasons now and although you need to keep checking it remains tight its been of real use and well worth the money. If you go off how it prints on paper though you will end up shooting 15-20 yards too far out

Edited by kent
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Quater and half for me when using steel , there's plenty off shot in steel cartridges of 32 gram upwards to fill the patterns at a sensible distance. I have shot steel through full chokes but soon realised its not needed. Plus it makes the gun kick like a mule.

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As per another post, I found that 1/2 did not give me a tight enough pattern for birds on the edge of range. For under 40 yards, a half isn't too bad. Over that, the patterns were far too gappy.

I fired a lot of 4.5mm steel through my .705 Terror choke in the 10 last season. It hasn't harmed my gun at all, but the geese didn't like it much when my aim was straight.

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In my 3.5 inch Browning Gold I use 1\4 choke for flighting over decoys with 3 inch loads of no3 and a American Undertaker full choke .700 and no 2 for high flighting mallard and BB or BBB for geese.

Edited by anser2
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I use a Kicks High Flyer Modified for all my Wildfowling as I think the patterns are good, with smaller shot 3's and 4's over flashes and bigger shot 1's and BB's at geese.

 

Huntissimo based in France is the cheapest place for your Wildfowling chokes, you look on the website pick your choke/chokes ring him up and he talks you through how to pay and they are with you in a few days.

 

Figgy

Edited by figgy
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I use a Kicks High Flyer Modified for all my Wildfowling as I think the patterns are good, with smaller shot 3's and 4's over flashes and bigger shot 1's and BB's at geese.

 

Huntissimo based in France is the cheapest place for your Wildfowling chokes, you look on the website pick your choke/chokes ring him up and he talks you through how to pay and they are with you in a few days.

 

Figgy

 

They are far cheaper in the States and very widely available the companies are also very much easier to deal with IMO. What one needs is a plan on tax and carriage cost though

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I was going to buy a Kick's choke from Huntissimo a while back but they were shown as out of stock. Having revisited their website to see if they now have stock I can't find any chokes on there at all. Am I missing something?

Edited by IEH
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I was going to buy a Kick's choke from Huntissimo a while back but they were shown as out of stock. Having revisited their website to see if they now have stock I can't find any chokes on there at all. Am I missing something?

Yes IMO a decent website LOL
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