Jump to content

Manually operated flapper


Salopian
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have asked on here a few times about a drawing or a photograph of a manually operated flapper.

Years ago I had one which was basically a wire cradle to hold a dead birds body , a spigot to rest its head on and two arms attached to operate wings. Pulled by a string going back to hide.

Lent it to a mate , who moved house and never returned it.

If anyone has a photograph or drawing ? I would love to make one for old times sake.

I have even got Flycoys and an Apple floater so that gives my age away. RiP Tony Orchard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a Ditchman manual flapper and must admit that when i first got it i was a bit sceptical but after using it a few times and realising how well it pulls the birds in i wouldmt leave home with out it

 

 

 

you will never wear it out !!!....you will be able to pass it on in your will

 

 

well done :good:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a Ditchman manual flapper and must admit that when i first got it i was a bit sceptical but after using it a few times and realising how well it pulls the birds in i wouldmt leave home with out it

 

you did the other day never mind you didnt need it :lol:

atb dolphin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't you end up yanking your chain or rope when you really ought to be concentrating on the incoming birds ?

 

Isn't the best one a battery flapper on an intermittent timer?

If the birds see the mechanical flapper movement they sometimes set up to come in to the decoy pack a field away. They show that they are commited to the decoys and you dont need to flap any more because you've got them hooked. Sometimes if you carry on flapping it puts them off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have asked on here a few times about a drawing or a photograph of a manually operated flapper.

Years ago I had one which was basically a wire cradle to hold a dead birds body , a spigot to rest its head on and two arms attached to operate wings. Pulled by a string going back to hide.

Lent it to a mate , who moved house and never returned it.

If anyone has a photograph or drawing ? I would love to make one for old times sake.

I have even got Flycoys and an Apple floater so that gives my age away. RiP Tony Orchard.

 

I have a DeadCert you can borrow to copy, can bring it to the ShootClay razzmatazz ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have one that I made myself based on the Sid Seemark design. This type of manual flapper is effective and works very well BUT there is a basic flaw in the concept of this type when using real pigeons. The flaw is the Chicken and egg situation that you need a bird being available to simulate landing flapping. Many times I have set up in a good position but because I haven’t had a pigeon available I have had to wait for ages for one to come in to start the cycle off. The next flaw is that it isn’t very long before the pigeon get stiff and wont flap so you go out and break the wing bones but the flapping action isn’t the same. To get over this I use a full bodied decoy with a set of painted foam wings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have one that I made myself based on the Sid Seemark design. This type of manual flapper is effective and works very well BUT there is a basic flaw in the concept of this type when using real pigeons. The flaw is the Chicken and egg situation that you need a bird being available to simulate landing flapping. Many times I have set up in a good position but because I haven’t had a pigeon available I have had to wait for ages for one to come in to start the cycle off. The next flaw is that it isn’t very long before the pigeon get stiff and wont flap so you go out and break the wing bones but the flapping action isn’t the same. To get over this I use a full bodied decoy with a set of painted foam wings.

Your right , you can not use a fresh bird as rigormortis will cause the bird to stiffen . We would always use a thawed bird with perfect wing action . The benefit of this type is they always park in the closed position

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I sort of bypassed the thawed out bird version with the above version. it isn't affected by rain ect and the foam wings work with very little resistance so the pull line doesn't frey on the guide loop. also to stop freying and breakage of the line ( which always happens when you've got trade going past) I grease the line which goes through the guide loop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have one that I made myself based on the Sid Seemark design. This type of manual flapper is effective and works very well BUT there is a basic flaw in the concept of this type when using real pigeons. The flaw is the Chicken and egg situation that you need a bird being available to simulate landing flapping. Many times I have set up in a good position but because I haven’t had a pigeon available I have had to wait for ages for one to come in to start the cycle off. The next flaw is that it isn’t very long before the pigeon get stiff and wont flap so you go out and break the wing bones but the flapping action isn’t the same. To get over this I use a full bodied decoy with a set of painted foam wings.

 

I used to use my DeadCert which is perfectly OK with breaking the wings from the beginning. Regarding starting the process off most serious shooters have a dead bird in the freezer, personally I tend to stop off at different fields for a look even if I know where I'll end up and it's rare I can't bag one or more flying out of nearby trees. If you set up in the right place getting a flapper or two shouldn't take too long, if it does you're probably in the wrong spot or field.

Edited by Hamster
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It looks to me that there are some interesting differences

 

  • some pull straight from the front which may tend to pull the device over (if you are over enthusiastic) compared to the braid going back to the central support loop closer to the ground which looks more stable?
  • Some look light weight and some look heavier
  • some have detachable ground spikes and some don't
  • Action differences - some pivot from the front and some from the back which may make the wing movement different - not sure if one is better or not?

Any thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How about using a large ring of the type used on carp rods, welded or whipped on? Friction free! The two footed ones would be stronger.

 

I sort of bypassed the thawed out bird version with the above version. it isn't affected by rain ect and the foam wings work with very little resistance so the pull line doesn't frey on the guide loop. also to stop freying and breakage of the line ( which always happens when you've got trade going past) I grease the line which goes through the guide loop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Guys,

That is exactly like the one I used to have, nice to know I'm not the only one to lend one out for it never to be returned.

I hope that you younger tyro's realise that there is much more to fieldcraft than hefting car batteries around !

I often take just a gun, 250 cartridges and six shell decoys , no magnet, no flappers and no hide.

This last month I have had fantastic sport on 6 acres of swathed peas. They are still coming in twice a day in big numbers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...