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Eeek !! which chokes


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Just decided to swap guns to shoot pheasant tomorrow

 

'Other gun had fixed chokes

 

Silver pigeon has multi chokes, which ones would you recommend please, and how do I identify them from the notches

 

Also which one at the top

 

Using 28grm 6's

 

Thanks in advance

 

N

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Whichever chokes you choose, can I suggest that you put the tighter one in the top barrel or if both the same fire the top barrel first. That way if you only fire 1 shot, the top barrel is easier to load quickly. Too many people shoot the open barrel first and then having missed, go on to fire the choke barrel at a bird which is now closer. If the birds are not overly high to begin with, a bird which is centred in the pattern of 30 grams of 6's at some 25 yards is usually only fit for soup.

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Whichever chokes you choose, can I suggest that you put the tighter one in the top barrel or if both the same fire the top barrel first. That way if you only fire 1 shot, the top barrel is easier to load quickly. Too many people shoot the open barrel first and then having missed, go on to fire the choke barrel at a bird which is now closer. If the birds are not overly high to begin with, a bird which is centred in the pattern of 30 grams of 6's at some 25 yards is usually only fit for soup.

That's oh so true. With driven, tighter choke first, as if you miss ,the bird will be closer for the second shot.

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Whichever chokes you choose, can I suggest that you put the tighter one in the top barrel or if both the same fire the top barrel first. That way if you only fire 1 shot, the top barrel is easier to load quickly. Too many people shoot the open barrel first and then having missed, go on to fire the choke barrel at a bird which is now closer. If the birds are not overly high to begin with, a bird which is centred in the pattern of 30 grams of 6's at some 25 yards is usually only fit for soup.

 

 

Very wise advice. Get a bit of slop in the action and the gun is an easy opener wanting just a flick of the right wrist, drop another in with the left hand and away you go.

 

In practise these days most fire the first barrel level with them then the second as the bird is flying away. Shooting 50 yards in front is often not possible due to safety and terrain issues.

 

Personally I always use the top first due to ease of reloading, my barrels are 1/4 + 1/2 and 1/2 + 3/4 so not really a lot of difference.

 

 

A

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I have used cylinder and cylinder for years now on everything from geese down to snipe and have shot some fairly high birds

 

 

The late MajorJohn Ruffer swore by it in combination with 7 shot.

 

I used a couple of skeet guns on driven pheasants for maybe 5 or 6 years, 7 shot. Invariably I had pricked birds, some picked, some not. I moved to 1/4 and 1/2 in a game gun in 1978, initially with 7s and 7.5 White Gold. Some nice kills yes but still pricked birds. Moving to 6s ( Grand Prix and Impax) improved things significantly and a move to 5s with a 687 about 20 years ago ( a shot size a hated as a teenager shooting rabbits) solved all problems. Things are either dead in the air or missed, very unusual to have a hit bird go on but if it does it will almost always be dead where it comes to ground.

 

A

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