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andrew f
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just got a redfield 3-9x52 revolution ,which is on my xbolt 223 cost £260 ,they are made by leupold in the usa .and I must say I am really impressed with it .

 

got the same setup on my xbolt in 308 not a great fan of it or the rifle or scope other wise it would have been first choice

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Nikko stirling diamond 3x12x56 illuminated fire dot. No messing around with parallax just pick your mag point and shoot. These scopes come with the howa packages. My best scope is a leupold mark 4 and the nikko is very very close to the same clarity as the leupold. Best thing to do is have a look through as many as you can.

Edited by Albert 888
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Might be the one

I don't rate the mtc genesis, I have shot on the range besides my mate who had one, in normal day conditions and my old school tasco world class out did it. On the back of that I bought another tasco worldclass plusfor the 308. On cheaper scopes you may as well forget about the higher end of the mag range as they cloud out. Ie if you have a 4x16 scope max mag and good clarity will be 12x. And if you have a x24 max mag and good clarity will be x18. This is coming from someone who is as tight as a duck bum.
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Ought to have a poll as to how many serious foxers use a 6x 42 it's sure not many as it's a major handicap under the lamp. At that budget I'd be looking second hand it's not going to get you German glass of anything decent so you are better off going MTC etc

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Ought to have a poll as to how many serious foxers use a 6x 42 it's sure not many as it's a major handicap under the lamp. At that budget I'd be looking second hand it's not going to get you German glass of anything decent so you are better off going MTC etc

 

On the internet your likely to get something like 30x being voted top and one of the branded and heavily marketed scopes coming out top of the list, due in no small part to those voting (its like two wolves and a lamb voting on what they should have for lunch). Thing is a LONG SHOT on the lamp is 200 yards reason being wind judging is hard in the dark as is calling a shot safe, range and ID being 110% etc.

 

Saying it again and again but 200/6 = 33, now can you hit a 2" target at 33 yards with open sights? Now at a far more realistic 100 yards 100/6= 16.6 and if you cant hit 2" at 17 yards first shot without any mag you honestly shouldn't be shooting live quarry with a rifle.

 

Major handicap? only mentally I say (the numbers don't tell lies) personally I feel a mag of any more than 10x would be a lot bigger one. The one thing lots of mag does do is give those who haven't yet the required skill the false impression they can make the shot count first time at ranges well beyond their actual limitations.

 

Perhaps its just me that cant call wind to hit a 2" kill zone at 200+ yards without being able to watch wind as to be frank I cant even call the actual range to apply any correction to unless I have a fox very conveniently located landmark to landmark. Get closer and take the shot quicker is a far better tactic and leaves less wounded and creates very few lamp shy foxes (yep lamp shy foxes are mostly those who have been missed)

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I'm going to sound daft here but here goes,

Putting a kilo of scope on top of a rifle , makes it heavy/unwieldly.

If you feel that carrying the equivalant to a bag of sugar is ok above the gun, then i would suggest getting a light scope and having the saved weight fixed underneath the gun.

Watch a tightrope walker toy, the weight is low down to enable some stabilty.

you want the gravity effect to be stabilizing, not destabilizing.

Had a 4x20 on my first 222, have had many so called better scopes since, but shot/kill ratio been downhill ever since.

Tis difficult to trust ones judgement against the overwhelming marketing hype and peer pressure.

The answer might be a big expensive scope on QR mounts, have it on the gun for when anyone is looking, then put the cheapo scope on for actual shot

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I'm going to sound daft here but here goes,

Putting a kilo of scope on top of a rifle , makes it heavy/unwieldly.

If you feel that carrying the equivalant to a bag of sugar is ok above the gun, then i would suggest getting a light scope and having the saved weight fixed underneath the gun.

Watch a tightrope walker toy, the weight is low down to enable some stabilty.

you want the gravity effect to be stabilizing, not destabilizing.

Had a 4x20 on my first 222, have had many so called better scopes since, but shot/kill ratio been downhill ever since.

Tis difficult to trust ones judgement against the overwhelming marketing hype and peer pressure.

The answer might be a big expensive scope on QR mounts, have it on the gun for when anyone is looking, then put the cheapo scope on for actual shot

 

And the smaller objective the less parallax error :good: Less mag = wider FOV :good: . Both lead to quicker and more accurate shooting from field stances, within limitations of range (if you feel 50 yards is ok for a 2" target with opens then 200 is ok with your 4x, 25 with opens? then 100 is about equal).

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For me I use an 8x56 S&B for lamping never had an issue or wanted more magnification have thought less would be useful at times I certainly would not want over 10x for lamping, I for one find it harder to judge distance at night and therefore reduce my shooting range, if you can't hit a fox at 200m with 8x not sure why your foxing.

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Well being as its been mentioned and asked, I thought I'd put my 2pence worth in.

1st- scope for £300, I would look for a good 2nd hand S&B or swaro , maybe try and stretch the budget a little.

2nd- some do some don't, but have you looked at interest free credit ???

 

I went stalking once with a leupold Vx 1 3-9×40, not a bad really for the price, BUT at dusk I failed to see any full body's on the Fallow just 150 yards in front of me. So bear one in mind.

I now have Swarovski on 2 of my rifles and a Vx3 4-14×50 on my night time Foxing setup.

 

I do like the Z6i 5-30×50 on my day time Foxing rifle though, that's just amazing;-) Oh! And long range shot's are optional.

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Well being as its been mentioned and asked, I thought I'd put my 2pence worth in.

1st- scope for £300, I would look for a good 2nd hand S&B or swaro , maybe try and stretch the budget a little.

2nd- some do some don't, but have you looked at interest free credit ???

 

I went stalking once with a leupold Vx 1 3-9×40, not a bad really for the price, BUT at dusk I failed to see any full body's on the Fallow just 150 yards in front of me. So bear one in mind.

I now have Swarovski on 2 of my rifles and a Vx3 4-14×50 on my night time Foxing setup.

 

I do like the Z6i 5-30×50 on my day time Foxing rifle though, that's just amazing;-) Oh! And long range shot's are optional.

There speaks a man who knows :good:

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Dougy have the same scope awesome for foxing and I have bodged the archer fittings to make that fit on it at night. High seat wise for longer shots it does get wound up and indeed under the lamp as well. I can shoot straight through dusk into dark now which it is surprising just how many you shoot just after you can't see without nv. I shoot with a mate with an 8x56 and regularly he will pass on the longer shots even though using Kents logic if he can hit a dinner plate at 50 yards with no sights then he should be fine........

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Parallax error is increased by a larger objective and reduced while using a smaller objective. The actual Science bit I am unsure about in terms of explanation but its something to do with the centre to diameter curve. As we all should know keeping your eye dead. central to any size of scope can negate parallax error- correct and consistent head position being of prime importance if you don't have time to move your head around to dial it out, watching all the time for aim point movement (Something I have never seen done under field conditions or lamping of foxes let alone ever done), correction there (something I have seen few shooters do even on the range, a mistake IMO) Laid up or from a hide shooting over long range yes you can mess, but shooting off hand, from sticks or off a truck forget it dial down use a lower mag estimate range and get the thing shot .

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Parallax error is increased by a larger objective and reduced while using a smaller objective. The actual Science bit I am unsure about in terms of explanation but its something to do with the centre to diameter curve. As we all should know keeping your eye dead. central to any size of scope can negate parallax error- correct and consistent head position being of prime importance if you don't have time to move your head around to dial it out, watching all the time for aim point movement (Something I have never seen done under field conditions or lamping of foxes let alone ever done), correction there (something I have seen few shooters do even on the range, a mistake IMO) Laid up or from a hide shooting over long range yes you can mess, but shooting off hand, from sticks or off a truck forget it dial down use a lower mag estimate range and get the thing shot .

This is very interesting and has triggered some memories. Years ago i tried ti improve my shooting and considered that head position was part of the problem, to rectify this i made a blank disk for the eyepiece with a 9mm hole in the centre,was ok but not overly helpful..

After reading your post, i have tried doing same on the objective lens,, the results are making me question why a 50 mm lens is

considered beneficial, when it might even be detrimental to accurate shooting?

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