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Re-blueing


12boreblue
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Your problem is that all the cold blue systems work the same way. They are selenium di-oxide based and this returns are rather greyer colour than hot blue/blacking. Its also prone to be patchy in appearance and wears away easier than hot finishes do. SeO2 is also a very expensive chemical, so it only comes in small pots of gel, or bottles of liguid - enough to immerse a barrel might be 250ml which is £23-95 on EBay, although that would do several barrels you need enough to make a "bath", just painting it on will give poor results.

 

As a result, these DIY kits are best for repairing wear marks and scratches etc, but don't give good overall finishes. 50ml of Se02 for tidying up wear is value for money, effective, and quick - but full refinishing these products are not recommended for.

 

It IS possible to get full finishes that are OK from cold processes, but it takes time, patience and skills to build up a technique, so you could buy a DIY kit and waste your time and money getting no-where.

 

If you have had a quote for a proper hot bluing, and its sub £100, get the professional to do the job - since the hot process is REALLY nasty fumes and dangerous corrosive and potentially explosive chemicals involved.

Edited by clayman
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Decided to strip off the tatty blueing on my sable sbs as it is a bit pitted etc.

Hot blueing will be too expensive for a gun that cost me £50! So can anyone recommend a good blueing kit and any advise on completing it?

 

Many thanks

Rub the barrels down with 0000 steel wool, thoroughly degrease them and wear latex etc gloves to prevent skin oils from contaminating the metal. I use Ballistol Klever - it gives good results, and seems to work better than Birchwood Casey.

 

Whatever you use will not be as good as a hot blue job, but you can get decent results if you get the preparation correct. :yes:

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