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Cleaning shotgun


adi786
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don't use WD for anything other than water dispersal - what the WD stands for in the name. Its basically a light oil similar to 28 sec heating fuel, and has good water chasing properties, and good penetrating capability - but its far too ligt to replace gun oils which have higher working temperature capabilities, and also higher viscosity to help them remain working in place in the mechanism.

If you use WD, the lubrication properties are burnt oil, run out by movement and gravity in a short number of cycles, and the gun goes dry and wears or jams. If using WD-40 on a gun is similar to using Easy-strat for old diesel engines, they become addicted to it and only start with it. Guns oiled with WD need constant replenishment as the light WD-40 will wash out the proper gun oils and only lubricate for about 5 cycles before replenishment it needed.

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don't use WD for anything other than water dispersal - what the WD stands for in the name. Its basically a light oil similar to 28 sec heating fuel, and has good water chasing properties, and good penetrating capability - but its far too ligt to replace gun oils which have higher working temperature capabilities, and also higher viscosity to help them remain working in place in the mechanism.

If you use WD, the lubrication properties are burnt oil, run out by movement and gravity in a short number of cycles, and the gun goes dry and wears or jams. If using WD-40 on a gun is similar to using Easy-strat for old diesel engines, they become addicted to it and only start with it. Guns oiled with WD need constant replenishment as the light WD-40 will wash out the proper gun oils and only lubricate for about 5 cycles before replenishment it needed.

 

thanks i was going to use wd40, been waiting for my cleaning kit to arrive, now i've ordered NAPIER GUN CLEANER to clean it, probably the best stuff to use to clean + oil?

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Unless you completly strip a semi to clean it and I mean so that you can get to each component, all you will be doing is moving the **** around. If you don't have the skills or tools to achieve this, I strongly recommend you take it to someone that can and have it serviced. It's not that expensive and if you don't it WILL eventually let you down.

Edited by birdsallpl
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don't use WD for anything other than water dispersal - what the WD stands for in the name. Its basically a light oil similar to 28 sec heating fuel, and has good water chasing properties, and good penetrating capability - but its far too ligt to replace gun oils which have higher working temperature capabilities, and also higher viscosity to help them remain working in place in the mechanism.

If you use WD, the lubrication properties are burnt oil, run out by movement and gravity in a short number of cycles, and the gun goes dry and wears or jams. If using WD-40 on a gun is similar to using Easy-strat for old diesel engines, they become addicted to it and only start with it. Guns oiled with WD need constant replenishment as the light WD-40 will wash out the proper gun oils and only lubricate for about 5 cycles before replenishment it needed.

 

This is so right. WD40 is NOT a proper 'oil' - its a water dispersant. Glad to see it being properly described for a change!

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so is there an acceptable time to use wd on a shotgun? I have never used it but after this weekend bringing my gun back soaking wet should I be using this?

I've never bothered either and even when soaking wet. For the synthetic semi I break down the gun and dry down as soon as I can, then stand it in front of the radiator to properly air dry. If I've shot enough to make the barrel obviously mucky, I give it a spray and shove through with a wire brush, polishing up with another quick spray and a mop and kitchen roll. A quick light spray on the rod and piston and reassemble. Don't over oil as it just encourages crud to build up.

 

I wipe over the stock with a damp cloth, but only if it's getting pretty muddy. TBH it's a plastic stock so it generally gets left. No back to black or anything fancy for me - next time out the stock will be in the mud again anyway, but I am a stickler for looking after the mechanics.

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It was developed in 1953 by Dr Norman Larsen founder of the Rocket Chemical Company, in San Diego. WD-40, abbreviated from the phrase "Water Displacement, 40th formula,"] was originally designed to repel water and prevent corrosion.

Larsen was attempting to create a formula to prevent corrosion in nuclear missiles, giving the original name of Rocket WD40, by displacing the standing water that causes it. He claims he arrived at a successful formula on his 40th attempt.

 

The light hydrocarbon oil also has good penetrating qualities.

 

What it does not have is any higher level of "stickiness" needed in non-pressurised mechanical lubrication systems, as is found in guns working parts. Here, a long lasting oil with be about SAE40, so fairly thick - and will also withstand high temperatures. Mono-grade classic car oil is basically a modern equivalent of the cruder "Rangoon Oil" favoured by the British Army when barrels full of Burma Crude were distilled and this part of the oil used on 19th C guns. "Gun oils" are branded for many other applications, like sewing machines that need similar long lasting oils.

 

WD has its uses though. It is excellent at free-ing up parts, to be cleaned and then re-assembled with correct oils and greases. It is good on S-Auto's for washing down the tube, where the sticky oils build up carbon quickly and cause jamming. But, the "addiction " problem comes in, and if light wash-out oils are used on the gas actions, this needs doing after every 100 shots or so.

 

Lastly, and best, is its function for what it was designed to do - clear off water after a wet days shooting. Rubbing down the outside of the barrels and action when there is moisture present will remove all vestiges of the water, just be careful not to let excess WD get down into parts lubricated with the heavier gun oils, as it will wash them out and make the whole action addicted to constant light oil replacement.

Edited by clayman
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Hull Superfast cartridges will keep the gun cleaner in use. For lubrication I use the red Lucas gun oil off the 'bay' for around £5 a bottle. Only use a small drop on the bolt running rails and the piston rod also the choke. Lucas gun oil is a very 'sticky' type oil designed for high temp use. I have just finished a bottle which has lasted for 5 years. For outside protection I use 3 in 1 spray on oil £1..99 at Aldi. I keep 1 of these small cans in my vehicle and spray the outside of the gun if rain is likely, wiping off the surplus with kitchen towel, a roll of which is hung in the boot from rear seat headrest. Handy for cleaning lights with too.

Edited by Westley
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I still urge everyone out there with a semi that if you don't have the skills yourself to completly strip it, you must send it occasionally to be professionally serviced and cleaned. I have been cleaning my Browning gold myself for years. A couple of weeks ago it jammed with a live cartridge up the spout, with the safety on. I couldn't do a thing with it, I couldn't fire the cartridge, open the chamber or anything. I was in the field and in a very tricky situation. I did manage to release the safety after a lot of huffing and puffing and discharge the cartridge in the end which was a relief because I didn't fancy stripping the barrel with a live cartridge in it. I took it to a gunsmith and he said the mechanism was so full of carbon and carp, he was amazed I had got it to work at all. So all the superficial cleaning in the world is not going to keep your gun in good safe order. So please take note.

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I still urge everyone out there with a semi that if you don't have the skills yourself to completly strip it, you must send it occasionally to be professionally serviced and cleaned. I have been cleaning my Browning gold myself for years. A couple of weeks ago it jammed with a live cartridge up the spout, with the safety on. I couldn't do a thing with it, I couldn't fire the cartridge, open the chamber or anything. I was in the field and in a very tricky situation. I did manage to release the safety after a lot of huffing and puffing and discharge the cartridge in the end which was a relief because I didn't fancy stripping the barrel with a live cartridge in it. I took it to a gunsmith and he said the mechanism was so full of carbon and carp, he was amazed I had got it to work at all. So all the superficial cleaning in the world is not going to keep your gun in good safe order. So please take note.

 

agree, I have seen my brothers stripping it down completely many times, yesterday i just strip it down completely it was pretty easy just to pins and trigger mechanism was out, only trigger bit was bit tricky other then that everything was quite simple for my gun. On top i had a look at a very nice video on utube as well. But as you mentioned if you not sure what you doing, and not comfortable doing it take it to gun shop.

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Guest cookoff013

I use "duck oil" similar to wd40 but leaves a better oil coat.

I spray down the barrel after a good soaking. Wipe off excess.

This stiff is really good.

I have resorted to WD in the past. But I think this is better.

 

However it does not replace decent oils.

 

Q. Should I be avoiding silicon and Teflon versions of spray.

I am genuinely confused if these would be aplicatable for shotguns.

Help explain? Pls?

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