activeviii Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Sorry guys, i had a problem with photobucket and lost all the photos. i have most of them but i cant edit the original post so i have copy paste and added photos where i can. sorry about this. Been meaning to do this for a while, made a good number now and keep forgetting to take photos. These are very very easy to make and no reason to pay silly money for them. To make the sticks you will need 4 garden canes or even hazel sticks. Buy from the range. Only £1.80 each for the 2.1m lenghts 6 o'rings or lambs tail bands Bike inner tube 1.5" is the best size. Some sort of padding. 41mm textured heat shrink work for me. Length of paracord. Tools: Tape measure Pen/pencil Hacksaw File Glue Knife or scissor 10mm(ish) Dowel or rod For a measurement I always ask height from floor to tip of nose then add 2" as its easier than asking someone to measure to their eye. This measurement is total length of sticks. These are then sticks from The Range. £1.80 each. Make the stick length and cut. One stick is 1.5 " shorter. Clean the cut end with file. While your at it you cut the end plug off. A knife or hacksaw, just score around when the plug is and then tap plug out from inside with a dowel or rod. Glue and fit plugs back in to the clean fresh cuts. Take 4 of the o'rings and roll them down each of the canes. They are not needed but they do take the knocking and banging out the canes while stalking. Cut 4 lengths of inner tube. 3" or there about. Roll them up tightly. Easy way is pull 1 piece over two sticks and then roll back off. [/url ] This is the only hard bit. Take 2 sticks and on the bottom you need to pull on a rolled up band but with an o'ring in between. The o'ring is needed to stop the inner tube unrolling. The way I do is to take the end of string in the on the o'ring, then the inner tube and then back out the o'ring. Put innertube on to 1 stick then whilst holding the stick, pull on the 2 ends of string to stretch the inner tube and pull the o'ring over the tube, slide the other stick up between the o'ring and inner tube so the o'ring is sandwiched between the sticks but on the inner tube. Pull is 2" up sticks. Do this on the other 2 stick bottoms too. Next, to the tops. Stand sticks up, one on left and other on right. The right one needs to have the shorter stick nearest you. Take that stick and the near left stick and pull an inner tube band on 5". No o'ring needed on the top bands. Do the same for the two front sticks. Take the length of paracord and tie it around the front inner tube, this acts as the o'rings to stop the bands unrolling. Tie other end of core around back inner tube so when a rifle sits on top the vee's tuck up against the sling studs. All that's left is to cut and shrink the textured heat shrink on the tops. This helps protect your rifle stock. Finish and ready to use. Only other thing I do is a wrap of white tape on the top of the short stick. This help to find the right way round in the dark on fox and rabbits. Total cost is under £15 and only takes an hour to do. Hope this is of use to someone. All the beat Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activeviii Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Just re reading the above. Looks like I need to get on the outer and correct a few things as all done so far from mobile phone. And it shows. He he Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew f Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 use the same things has you but I shoot of a tripod version three canes and a milking liner to hold them together no need for them trigger sticks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remimax Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 use the same things has you but I shoot of a tripod version three canes and a milking liner to hold them together no need for them trigger sticks if your shooting any distance these are the way to go lot more steady than a tripod .got same set up with bolts instead of rubber rings. this idea is far better as you do not weaken the pole with holes for the bolts as these canes are made out of very thin steel ., Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activeviii Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 I did make a set with bolts but found they knock together. The rubber stops the banging. Nothing worse than a long stalk and then your sticks knock together and your wee Beastie runs away shouting at you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew f Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 (edited) if your shooting any distance these are the way to go lot more steady than a tripod .got same set up with bolts instead of rubber rings. this idea is far better as you do not weaken the pole with holes for the bolts as these canes are made out of very thin steel ., Never had a problem most of its getting the breathing right. might make a pair of these quad sticks and have a go doesn't hurt to evolve Edited November 30, 2014 by andrew f Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Essex Hunter Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 I did make a set with bolts but found they knock together. The rubber stops the banging. Nothing worse than a long stalk and then your sticks knock together and your wee Beastie runs away shouting at you. If you stagger the bolt holes then they wont touch!! Also just pack out any faces with some electrical tape. I often roll my rifle in the sticks, this allows me to gain that much needed few inches at distance, so I do not have the padding. Quite often a deer might be looking right at you and too move the sticks a fine amount still requires you to move your self, something I have found out since I have been using them... TEH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activeviii Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 The heat shrink still allows the rolling. I do just the same. Works well when scanning with night vision too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berettacocker Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Got quad sticks and bipod, both made with the green canes as you, but must say yours are very well thought out and more professional looking. Will be taking mine apart and following your design, well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow white Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 There ok but you cannot scan with them like you can with my design all the lot come together so you can put the for end of rifle on the v part the they open up into quad sticks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activeviii Posted December 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 I just use binos when scanning in the day and a t20 torch for scanning at night. Once you get use to things with quad you can track with them very easily, take a quick shot using as a single stick, into a vee or open to a quad. They will not work for everyone but my little post was how to make a set for under £15 so someone doesn't waste £50 to find out they don't work for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow white Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 I can make mine for £15 but like I said you just put rifle on the v that is there and you.can scan as much as you like with no weight on your arms I use them day time and night time with no problems and I have not got care binos as well. I am not knocking yours just saying that with the v it is easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2-dead-in-the-air Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 They look good, ive been trying to do the same but with telescopic poles, im still working on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billytheghillie Posted December 7, 2014 Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 where do you get the heat shrink? why is one leg cut shorter than the other 3? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted December 7, 2014 Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 where do you get the heat shrink? why is one leg cut shorter than the other 3? Where your cheek goes..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Essex Hunter Posted December 7, 2014 Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 where do you get the heat shrink? why is one leg cut shorter than the other 3? I know you guys get the rough weather first.....however e b ay...is shared out equal in the UK....lol http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1M-Heat-shrink-tubing-18mm-diameter-electrical-car-wiring-2-1-shrink-ratio-/181239827225?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item2a32bc4b19 TEh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activeviii Posted December 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 One is cut shorter to stop it smacking you in the face on the recoil plus if left long you can't get the cheek weld. The heat shrink is from ebay buy a good fishing tackle shop might have it. Textured heat shrink. 41mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activeviii Posted December 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 http://www.finishrink.com/non-slip-tubing.html I use this company but via eBay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
numpty Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Many thanks activeviii, good of you to share this with us, appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amazed Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Thanks for the share mate knocked a set up last night but of fine tuning and be good to go, Just out of interest what length did you set the sticks apart with the cord ? Many thanks Karl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Essex Hunter Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Thanks for the share mate knocked a set up last night but of fine tuning and be good to go, Just out of interest what length did you set the sticks apart with the cord ? Many thanks Karl. That will equate to your height and shooting stance......(if it is width you are asking about?) I don't use a width cord as I set my sticks wide which makes them lower thus you don't have to lift the gun up and over the sticks when they are set at you shooting height, this intern points the muzzle up in the air. By setting my sticks lower then the gun can be kept more stable as your arm is not on full stretch to lift a 6/7/8 lb gun up and over in to the v's of the sticks. When the gun is in the V's I just close one of the legs, this lifts the gun into the height I need.... The forward width is set on however your stock is configured, for my 700 I use the heal of the stock and just behind the front stud. TEH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandalf Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Thanks for all of this info lads - I'm off to the workshop... Could be some time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amazed Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 That will equate to your height and shooting stance......(if it is width you are asking about?) I don't use a width cord as I set my sticks wide which makes them lower thus you don't have to lift the gun up and over the sticks when they are set at you shooting height, this intern points the muzzle up in the air. By setting my sticks lower then the gun can be kept more stable as your arm is not on full stretch to lift a 6/7/8 lb gun up and over in to the v's of the sticks. When the gun is in the V's I just close one of the legs, this lifts the gun into the height I need.... The forward width is set on however your stock is configured, for my 700 I use the heal of the stock and just behind the front stud. TEH Thanks for the info mate will get it set up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activeviii Posted December 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 I set no width as I open wide for kneeling shots. I do set the distance from front to back, I set to the sling swivels are on outside of sticks, when the rifle is set I can then hold the sling tight against the front stick and if need be I pick the hole lot up and swing around, very handy when yet set up ready for fox and the begged comes in from behind. When making I !easue to the eye for total length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billytheghillie Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 looking for the metal canes, local garden centre wanted £6 for one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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