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First go at this reloading malarkey


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That's good. Basically It's all in there but the crimp needs to be in a bit more which will pull the top roll over and into the case instead of flairing out which gives the case a sort of trumpet effect on the tip. sometimes this can make the round drag in the chamber. This can be caused by the case length not matching the total length of the components that you are trying to get in there. What reloader tool are you using?

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:good: Cracking effort !!

Your press is a Lee Loadall if I remember correctly ?

The lads on here will help you out, on how to tune your machine in, contact roughshooter if you need a spinner, he sells them. and they are excellent quality..

Paul

It is indeed a lee load all 2 mate Iv been told of Mr roughshooter I believe he's local to me to so will give him a shout really enjoyed loading them up can't wait to fire them now

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That looks like a goodun. The crimp could be a tad deeper though. When you put the wad in press the bar down a bit more so that you bend the crush supports on the wad a tad.

 

Are they new or pre-fired hulls. Try them if it's a new one. Be selective though if you get them from the clay ground. I find that Fiocchi blue and Hull superfast reload best. Either way try and get hulls with thicker plastic walls and make sure you get 70mm ones. If it's been raining make sure the hulls you get are dry. You don't want to get water under the base wad. If necessary leave it for another day. You may find that pre-fired hulls give you a better crimp.

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Basically you have achieved a reloaded cartridge but sometimes the total length of components within the case being used are too long in the column to fit that kind of case. Although you are following a recipe it doesn’t always seem to work out for one of many reasons. Generally getting a longer case, or putting different components within the case can only rectify this. Sometimes I put a washer on top of the crimp and this makes the press fold the crimp petals down in tighter, pushing the internals down and folding the crimp and pulling the roll over making the final finish a tapered end rather than a trumpet finish. There is a minor failure in this that sometimes the case can’t support this downward pressure and bulges down where the wad base is. If you look at your second picture which shows the end of the case you perhaps notice that the case end is kind of octagonal, seating the case down tighter also eliminates this effect. You could experiment on a case by taking a few pellets (6>7) out of the load and then crimp the case, which would show whether there is too much inside of the case. If the case crimps down nicely and gives a good tapered finish, this shows that the components within the case don't match the available length and something has to be altered to achieve the correct finish. It is only fine-tuning and yours will go bang and take targets. Welcome to reloading.

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Sometimes a 5/16" (M8) washer put in the top of the crimp will help. When you pull the bar down for the final crimp, make sure you pull it right down and hold it for a couple of seconds. If necessary pull it down a second time. A good start though. You might want to check the weight of shot before starting the crimp. As Fortune says, take a couple of shot out if necessary to get the right weight of shot.

 

You might like to do a shot drop after you have done a charge drop table. They both vary but the 198 powder bush does drop consistent charges. Even so I still weigh every 5th drop or so (powder and shot) when reloading to give me an average charge and load over the whole set of cartridges. Record this when finished loading. This is the benefit of using digital scales.

 

The Lee Load-All is a great machine and produces good shells but it is limited by the fact that you cannot make adjustments like you can on something like the MEC. For the price though it is good value. When one gets more experienced one can upgrade to a MEC but that is in the future. Don't rush it and be consistent and methodical with your loads. It's only when you get complacent with loading that mistakes happen, and they will, believe me. The worst one is pulling the bar down before the shell is under the drop tube. Result: shot or powder all over the floor! A real PINTA picking it out of the pile of the carpet.

 

I don't use new hulls as I find once fired hulls keep their crimp memory nicely and of course it saves on cost, not that I'm reloading to save cost. It's just a matter of convenience.

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Guest cookoff013

Sometimes a 5/16" (M8) washer put in the top of the crimp will help. When you pull the bar down for the final crimp, make sure you pull it right down and hold it for a couple of seconds. If necessary pull it down a second time. A good start though. You might want to check the weight of shot before starting the crimp. As Fortune says, take a couple of shot out if necessary to get the right weight of shot.

 

You might like to do a shot drop after you have done a charge drop table. They both vary but the 198 powder bush does drop consistent charges. Even so I still weigh every 5th drop or so (powder and shot) when reloading to give me an average charge and load over the whole set of cartridges. Record this when finished loading. This is the benefit of using digital scales.

 

The Lee Load-All is a great machine and produces good shells but it is limited by the fact that you cannot make adjustments like you can on something like the MEC. For the price though it is good value. When one gets more experienced one can upgrade to a MEC but that is in the future. Don't rush it and be consistent and methodical with your loads. It's only when you get complacent with loading that mistakes happen, and they will, believe me. The worst one is pulling the bar down before the shell is under the drop tube. Result: shot or powder all over the floor! A real PINTA picking it out of the pile of the carpet.

 

I don't use new hulls as I find once fired hulls keep their crimp memory nicely and of course it saves on cost, not that I'm reloading to save cost. It's just a matter of convenience.

 

just wait until you see a mec 9000 have a hissy-fit. when the bar locks and just trips out again, both shot and powder shooting everywhere.

the single stage machine dispences either powder or shot, the progressives dispence both at the same time.

i can tell you, its either heaven or hell.

but when its working, you can go hell to leather without breaking a sweat. 500 shells / h or if you like to relax and have a session. its nice, to do 400/h. on the european loads the powder is alot less dense than the american stuff.

 

any mec can have the "steel shot" bottle put on the powder side, this is done so the large flakes of powder can be easily transition from bottle to bushing.

there is a difference using a progressive vs single stage. as for "it may / may not fit- take out some shot..."

 

if the recipe is decent and all the correct components used, then the load should fit. a loader is a volumetric measuring device. even with slight variation it should all work and fit. taking out a tiny few pellets will do next to nothing. (thats volumetricly dropped shot too. most loaders drop light)

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As I said in my previous post a crimp finisher will make a good job of it , not cheep at around £40 but I would say a essential especially if you use a semi auto.

I only started reloading a few weeks ago had a few issues getting the perfect crimp but am just about there now , the crimp finisher gives it the nice round edge.

 

DSC_0152_zps9ff717cc.jpg

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just wait until you see a mec 9000 have a hissy-fit. when the bar locks and just trips out again, both shot and powder shooting everywhere.

 

 

Good to see I'm not alone :whistling: getting remarkably good at doing a quick strip & clean of the damned thing, shot in the collet re-sizer thing causes additional problems so I've found the best thing is simply to dismantle a certain amount and get it all clean before restarting.

 

On the plus side, it makes a couple of hundred cart's nice and quick (when it's playing ball) and they really do come out nice, just a shame about the hissy fits :sad1:

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Guest cookoff013

Good to see I'm not alone :whistling: getting remarkably good at doing a quick strip & clean of the damned thing, shot in the collet re-sizer thing causes additional problems so I've found the best thing is simply to dismantle a certain amount and get it all clean before restarting.

 

On the plus side, it makes a couple of hundred cart's nice and quick (when it's playing ball) and they really do come out nice, just a shame about the hissy fits :sad1:

I've not pushed it that hard for hours. But quick burst 200s

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That's about all I usually do, a couple of hundred at a time but it still throws a paddy now and then.

 

Back to the o.p. Has anyone told you about trimming a bit off the one station (resize?) whichever it is, cutting a little bit off the bottom allows you to operate the handle a little further and put a deeper crimp on :good: Did it to mine when I first started, someone else told me. Pull the handle and whichever hits the bottom first, that's the one that needs trimming

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Well gents today was test day!!!!! I'm still here as, I'll be honest I said to my mate just pull a pair and I'll have a go 1st well I closed my eyes and fired both shots

 

They worked fine no major recoil no picking up my fore end or limbs,

So in went 2 more and the nerves had gone as I new they were fine out of 50 clays I managed a 38 and for me that's a good score well my best score it's normally a lot lower so I came away really pleased my cartridges were good and got me a pb all on there first outting time to knock some more up I think

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