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Hi guys,

 

I am looking to join a wildfowling club either before the season starts or sometime next year. Now, I clay shoot, but unfortunately I have never had any experience on live game other than popping bunnies with an air rifle. :lol: So, I went to Highclere fair on Monday, and two of the local clubs to me tried to persuade me to join their club. Being fronted with this new found information has enthused to start looking for a suitable club, but i need a little advice on the gear needed.

 

So, I have (I am kind of a shamed to say) a Revo Premium Game O/U 12g 3" chamber, I think steel proofed and i am thinking of getting a new gun!

 

What gun is the best for Wildfowling? O/U, S/S or Semi Auto? And, do I go for a synthetic stock or risk it with a usual walnut stock?

 

Also, best cartridges for a starter for Geese, ducks, and hopefully if I get some contacts pigeons?

 

Good waders/warm weather gear?

 

Also, not trying to make a fight, which is the better club? Langstone and District or Chichester?

 

Thank you,

 

Verminator343

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The vast mojority of wildfowlers now use a semi auto , the main reason is they handle heavy loads much better , your gun will be fine to get you started but make sure it is well oiled as soon as you get back off the marsh , synthetic is much easier to clean down and less likely to get damaged .

 

Cartridge wise if you are sticking with a 3" gun Eley lightning steel in 3s for duck and 1s for geese will serve you well .

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Hi

Proberably best to choose the club nearest to you and or one that suits your skill level

I would try to find a mentor in the club with times similar to yours to learn the marsh

No real need to change your gun if you can hit stuff with it just reduce the range a bit

Try it first before you spend a lot of money

 

Just my thoughts

All the best

Of

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I'm new to the shotgun lark aswell, but I'm pretty sure you need a good dog! I like the idea of wildfowling but I'm lacking a dog!

 

Some clubs insist on a dog others don't , yes you are more limited in where you go but there are plenty of wildfowlers who manage just fine without.

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Both clubs offer a complete mentoring package and whilst the use of dogs is mandatory in some areas of each club, there is nothing to say that you need to own a dog, simply that you are accompanied by a full member who does. You won`t be allowed out unsupervised during your first year and both clubs operate a "buddy" system for dogless fowlers in the years to come after their probation.

 

As a word of advice, neither club will appreciate questions likely to result in discussions about clubs internal structures and operation on an open forum.

 

Good luck with which ever club allows you to join.

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I'm now looking forward to my second season and agree with all the previous replies but, for what its worth, here's my own two penn'th:

 

1. I don't have a dog either (well a pointer named Jed who is too skittish (i.e. badly trained) for a Wildfowling dog) and so I tend to leave all the long shots to others. If I don't think I can retrieve it myself, I don't take the shot.

 

2. Given 1. above, I don't really need the assistance of my 3.5 inch chambered SX3 and Kicks High flyer choke when I'm on my own as a kill at 40 metres will probably result in a longish swim in icy water for me :-)

 

3. ANY gun which is steel-proofed (preferably fleur-de-Lys) will do for Wildfowling so long as you don't mind it being soaked in brine for several hours.

 

4. Go out with an experienced member of whatever club you decide to join for at least the first few flights (maybe even without your gun). This will give you both a feel for the lay of the land and guidance on quarry identification. This will pay huge dividends in the long term.

 

5. As for cartridges, I agreed with the above, but if you're going to try your hand for Geese, I would also recommend Gamebore 3.5 mammoths in no. 1 or BB, but only really if you're with someone who has a dog. Also, you won't necessarily be shooting 100's of carts over over the season, so you could remortgage the house and get some non-toxic loads other than steel (bismuth, ITM etc).

 

6. MOST IMPORTANTLY ENJOY THE EXPERIENCE. Wildfowling is not about bag sizes or even testing your skills as a good shot (well not for me anyway). For me, it's about being allowed to experience the foreshore and its flora and fauna in all its sunrise glory. And (hopefully) being allowed to experience some great tasting food the day after.

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Just to reiterate with respect to the probationary period of the two specific clubs mentioned.

 

You`ll serve an accompanied first year during which you will not be allowed out on your own. Both marshes are especially hostile and will kill the unwary.

 

You will almost always be accompanied by a dog. It may not be yours, but your mentor will have one.

 

There is a test at the end of your first year. If you pass it you can go out on your own with the same proviso regarding a dog as above.

 

Both clubs will do their utmost to turn you into a well rounded fowler. Anything that you don`t know or don`t understand from shooting successfully,to dog training through ballistics to game cookery will be explained to you. All you have to do is ask.

 

It is the aim of both clubs to prepare you for a long and successful wildfowling career which will require some not inconsiderable input and effort from yourself.

 

And to preclude an open debate on the merits of either on an open forum. Chichester has a huge area, 27 miles of foreshore and produces some good shooting. Langstone is much smaller, costs less and produces shooting of much the same quality as Chichester. Take your pick. Even join both!

 

Whatever you decide, do it soon. Langstone in particular will not be keeping it`s books open for much longer.

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I'm new to the shotgun lark aswell, but I'm pretty sure you need a good dog! I like the idea of wildfowling but I'm lacking a dog!

 

Wilksy, same here, I have three labs but they are not trained to pick up game. Two of them are three years old, they could still be taught, but I am up at college doing the step before a farriery apprenticeship so I cannot train them till I get home, which is a few weeks, but they won't be trained well enough for the season start.

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Both clubs offer a complete mentoring package and whilst the use of dogs is mandatory in some areas of each club, there is nothing to say that you need to own a dog, simply that you are accompanied by a full member who does. You won`t be allowed out unsupervised during your first year and both clubs operate a "buddy" system for dogless fowlers in the years to come after their probation.

 

As a word of advice, neither club will appreciate questions likely to result in discussions about clubs internal structures and operation on an open forum.

 

Good luck with which ever club allows you to join.

 

Yes, I realized that, and I was very hesitant about putting it on my post, but I wanted to know whether anyone had an opinion about either club. Yes, both clubs do offer tuition, guidance and a buddy system, and a years probationary period, which is sensible, I am considering going on a sort of taster session with both clubs.

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Just so you know. It would be usual to join the club before the season starts.

 

Both clubs offer taster flights but you won`t get the full feel of fowling until well past November by which time Langstone has closed its books. Chichester will accept membership applications much later in the season but there is no pro rata reduction in fees. You can join in November, but you`ll pay the whole years subscription.

 

By all means experience the taster flight, but, in the case of Langstone at least, you won`t then be able to join until the 2016 season.

 

Once again, you will not need to own a dog in your first or subsequent years, although obtaining one at some point would be a good idea.

 

I speak for both clubs when I say that we`d prefer it if there was not a debate about respective club merits on a public open forum.

 

Best wishes with whatever you decide to do. There is no sport quite like `fowling.

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