secretagentmole Posted July 15, 2015 Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 (edited) It got to me, the constant cloinggg on firing that Galatian. Now this method details how to fit a depinger on a Galatian, it will also work on other rifles but the spanner required may be different! 1) Remove air cylinder from gun. This is very easy just turn anti clockwise. 2) De pressurise air cylinder, very important, you do not want to try and catch the valve with your teeth, it will be travelling a bit on the fast side. This is done by turning the allen screw in the long brass end cap 5 or 6 times to the right then screwing the cap on the air tube. When all the air has gone remove cap. 3) Firmly grasping air cylinder use a 17mm spanner and turn the valve to the left, it unscrews easily surprisingly enough. 4) Buy a bottle brush for cleaning babies milk bottles, snip the handle off leaving 40-45mm of handle on the brush, using pliers turn the very end over to make a hook. 5) Insert halfway into air tube! 6) Put a smear of silicon grease on the air cylinder where the seal goes and do the valve back up! 7) Put refill cylinder to 200 bar. 8) Put air cylinder back in gun. 9) Try firing it and smirk like a demon! This fix works on the Air Arms S4** series, S3** series, Hatsan AT44 and BT65! Try it, a brush is only a £1 to £1.50! Edited July 15, 2015 by secretagentmole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fabhui Posted July 15, 2015 Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 (edited) Did it to my Hatsan AT44 and it made a massive difference. Edited July 15, 2015 by Fabhui Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickP Posted July 16, 2015 Report Share Posted July 16, 2015 might have too call in to Tesco and buy a baby bottle brush and have a look at doing this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalconFN Posted July 16, 2015 Report Share Posted July 16, 2015 I'm surprised a bottle brush has enough rigidity to completely remove the resonation. I have a lump of delrin with rubber o-rings around it which completely eliminated the twang/ping on my Falcons but I have heard of all sorts of things being used, including empty shotgun shells (tried that one but not as effective as the solid plug). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secretagentmole Posted July 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2015 It works, trust me it really really works. Only buy the 100% bristle brush, not ones with cloth or sponge at the end and good stiff fibres that are about 3 inches in diameter! It is a fix that cannot be believed for the cost and ease. Just trust me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickP Posted July 16, 2015 Report Share Posted July 16, 2015 Got the bottle brush, got the air tube off can I heck get the brass end off the air tube 😡 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fabhui Posted July 16, 2015 Report Share Posted July 16, 2015 Spanner and give the spanner a persuasive tap with something...just make sure you've emptied all the air first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickP Posted July 16, 2015 Report Share Posted July 16, 2015 Now I've damaged the thread Looks like the cheap brush mods going to cost £40+ for a new one https://www.gunspares.co.uk/shopdisplayproducts.asp?page=2&id=24960&Search= They are saying I need to send the old one back to them due to a VRC act Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secretagentmole Posted July 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2015 How the heck did you damage the thread? Mine came apart just with hand pressure, no tap with a hammer needed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickP Posted July 16, 2015 Report Share Posted July 16, 2015 Mines is jammed tight, not an bit of movement at all, slipped and took a chuck of thread out, not going to risk putting back together But still no movement even whacking it to see if it get the spanner to move Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snarepeg Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 Mines is jammed tight, not an bit of movement at all, slipped and took a chuck of thread out, not going to risk putting back togetherBut still no movement even whacking it to see if it get the spanner to move Returning your cylinder? Chambers wanted the old one, John knibbs didn't. Guess where I got one from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalconFN Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 Sometimes they have been secured with locktight so heating to the point you can't comfortably touch it will work - take your time and be careful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickP Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 i did think about adding heat, but was worried about the seal inside But just spoken to my dealer, they don't have spares, John Kibbs don't so will have to have a chat with chambers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boosh Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 Hi guys, this interests me a lot, am I to take it that you are just sleeving between the hammer spring and the hammer slide rod? Heard about de pinging, in my head I thought it was something that stopped the hammer smacking hard into the valve block. (I am keen on stopping any sort of extra noise and twitchyness on my s410,). Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les*1066 Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 Hi guys, this interests me a lot, am I to take it that you are just sleeving between the hammer spring and the hammer slide rod? Heard about de pinging, in my head I thought it was something that stopped the hammer smacking hard into the valve block. (I am keen on stopping any sort of extra noise and twitchyness on my s410,). Cheers. No, the "ping" comes from the air reservoir. I'm not sure about the physics of the whole thing, but it's probably something to do with pressure differences/eddies creating a resonance effect after each shot. Fitting a "de-pinger" prevents the eddies from forming, so there's no boing/cluuung/piiing etc when you fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secretagentmole Posted July 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 The de pinger stops resonance or waves of pressure in the air reservoir. The waves vibrate the metal and make the ringing noise, how the bottle brush stops it I do not know, all I can attest to is the fact that it works, really works! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 Sounds like a right bodge ...... way better getting a springer This is a air rifle, the most noisy gun in the world, and it could blow your ears clean off with either a twang or a pinging noise. Do you feel lucky? Apologies to Callahan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyflier Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 Nick P.................... Are you absolutely sure the air tube was depressurised? Usually if they're that tight, there's pressure in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickP Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 Hyflier, absolutely no air left it in whatsoever, used the de pressuring adapter it came with, and the indicator said '0' and the valve could be pressed and no air came out at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickP Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 applied a little bit of heat and clamping the spanner, with some rubber anti-slip matting to gain a bit more of a grip, i just managed too get a bit of movement, which eventually freed the valve No obvious signs of thread lock, but the seal did look quite dry and there was a very fine burr of brass near one of the thread grooves Anyway, when the new one arrives, i need some silicone grease, anything to watchout for, things to avoid like it including PTFE etc when buying? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secretagentmole Posted July 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 No idea, mine came apart easily no PTFE on the valve and none required when rebuilding either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickP Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 the PTFE was mentioned when i googled silicone grease as some have it added, i'll see what my local auto place has in the morning i have silicone oil (treadmill lube) is that any good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secretagentmole Posted July 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 (edited) applied a little bit of heat and clamping the spanner, with some rubber anti-slip matting to gain a bit more of a grip, i just managed too get a bit of movement, which eventually freed the valve No obvious signs of thread lock, but the seal did look quite dry and there was a very fine burr of brass near one of the thread grooves Anyway, when the new one arrives, i need some silicone grease, anything to watchout for, things to avoid like it including PTFE etc when buying? You never mentioned PTFE? Funny I can see it clear as day there! Ask for some silicon grease at a dive shop, they will have some they can sell you and their stuff has to work with HPA as well! Edited July 17, 2015 by secretagentmole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickP Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 I know I mentioned it😂 In the context of some silicone grease has it added to it when I searched on Google (such as maplins) I'll try a dive shop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secretagentmole Posted July 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 I thought you were going on about tape! My mistook! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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