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rain kills stock finish??


clayboster
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Most stock wood today is kiln dried which requiries the grain to be filled thus not allowing moisture too penitrate the wood before a oil finish , this does not come overnight it takes months for a good oil finish.' for what I see from the image the only way to rescue this stock is strip of finish and start a fresh.,Most gun stocks today are just **** wood the gun makers of yesterday would only used todays wood for firewood, enclosed are images of gunstocks of yesterday

Feltwad

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beautiful pieces of wood there felty old bean!

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took gun back today, thought the wood may have settled back down but not im afraid, rfd seemed not to be shocked and said ill send back to be refinished properly, ? 2 weeks wait and it had better be worth the trouble , i hope i dont get a repeat of it again when i get it back. wonder how many of these brownings have had this problem ? i own a beretta sv10, had it a few years now shot in rain,snow, sun, wind and mud...never had an issue with it...C'MON BROWNING PULL YA FINGER OUT.!

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took gun back today, thought the wood may have settled back down but not im afraid, rfd seemed not to be shocked and said ill send back to be refinished properly, ? 2 weeks wait and it had better be worth the trouble , i hope i dont get a repeat of it again when i get it back. wonder how many of these brownings have had this problem ? i own a beretta sv10, had it a few years now shot in rain,snow, sun, wind and mud...never had an issue with it...C'MON BROWNING PULL YA FINGER OUT.!

2 weeks I doubt it will be worth it most oils take that long to dry, 1 coat a day. 4 days in couriers hands so that a couple of quick coats of lacquer then!

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Had the same problem with a Beretta Silver Pigeon grade 1 that I owned about 2 years ago. A few coats of Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil sorted the problem out, and greatly improved the finish. Ended up selling it anyway, didn't like it much!

Edited by Exudate
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In my experience of making guitars, oil finishes of any thickness can take months to properly cure; and some never /actually/ completely do... Likewise with Nitro coating, it takes quite a while for it to cure to anything hard wearing.

Also, SOME wood just never give up, and is just unfit for being coated with /anything/ I had a piece like that some time ago, I stripped it perhaps 5 times, and a patch of grain would still gas out. I even tried filling with superglue (which usually works fantastic) and it still wouldn't look good afterward.

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If you are going to take your oil fininshed gun out in the rain, give it a good coating of bees wax a few days before....

 

 

100ml of pure turpentine (NOT TURPS SUBSTITUTE)

100g of bees wax

 

get turps hot (in a hot water bath/double boiler for gods sake)

and melt beeswax (again preferably in a hot water bath/double boiler) if it gets hot enough to smoke... the damn stuff is nearly explosive

 

mix the two together and allow to cool...voila...bees wax furniture polish paste (paste wax)

 

use it warm (stand container in airing cupboard for a day before using...if you dare )

if its too stiff...melt and add a bit more tupentine

 

liberally smear over wood work (and metal work come to that...

 

allow to stand for a day then polish with lint free cloth

 

you will find

1 it makes a nice finish

2 it doesnt interfere with subsequent oilings

3 and this may or may not be an advantage to you (it is to me) it leaves the stock slightly "tacky" not "sticky" in any sense, and nothing comes off on your hands...but it gives you the grip of satan...

4 water just rolls off

5 if you have put plenty on the metalwork, just give it a quick wipe to "even it out" even salt water wont get through it

 

BUT ...DONT get it near the "works" it WILL stick everything up

 

to remove it from metal work a cloth well wet with white spirit will shift it...dont forget to oil afterwards.....

 

I give this advice on the basis of "this" is what works for me your mileage may vary....

 

Oh and if you blow yourself up making the wax paste...thats your lookout....

 

both turpentine and beeswax are remarkably volatile when heated....

 

it is possible to buy a pure turpentine /beeswax paste wax

 

that may be a good route if you are incautious OR unlucky

Edited by victorismyhero
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If you are going to take your oil fininshed gun out in the rain, give it a good coating of bees wax a few days before....

 

 

100ml of pure turpentine (NOT TURPS SUBSTITUTE)

100g of bees wax

 

get turps hot (in a hot water bath/double boiler for gods sake)

and melt beeswax (again preferably in a hot water bath/double boiler) if it gets hot enough to smoke... the damn stuff is nearly explosive

 

mix the two together and allow to cool...voila...bees wax furniture polish paste (paste wax)

 

use it warm (stand container in airing cupboard for a day before using...if you dare )

if its too stiff...melt and add a bit more tupentine

 

liberally smear over wood work (and metal work come to that...

 

allow to stand for a day then polish with lint free cloth

 

you will find

1 it makes a nice finish

2 it doesnt interfere with subsequent oilings

3 and this may or may not be an advantage to you (it is to me) it leaves the stock slightly "tacky" not "sticky" in any sense, and nothing comes off on your hands...but it gives you the grip of satan...

4 water just rolls off

5 if you have put plenty on the metalwork, just give it a quick wipe to "even it out" even salt water wont get through it

 

BUT ...DONT get it near the "works" it WILL stick everything up

 

to remove it from metal work a cloth well wet with white spirit will shift it...dont forget to oil afterwards.....

 

I give this advice on the basis of "this" is what works for me your mileage may vary....

 

Oh and if you blow yourself up making the wax paste...thats your lookout....

 

both turpentine and beeswax are remarkably volatile when heated....

 

it is possible to buy a pure turpentine /beeswax paste wax

 

that may be a good route if you are incautious OR unlucky

hello, reference your post making a bees wax and turps solution paste i found this in a ready made form, LIBERON BEES WAX/PURE TURPS PASTE in clear 150ml £6 ish would this be ok ?

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  • 3 weeks later...

well, its been over 3 weeks now and not heard a thing, still waiting for rfd to call me back!!, missed out on some great little comps over last 3 weeks+, no fun getting *** whooped cause i aint useing my favourite gun (well thats my excuse anyway), so come on browning, pull that finger out and get my gun finished. :| .

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Nice pictures of them in the sunshine.

 

Perhaps you could run a test, put some rain water on one of the stocks, leave it for an hour or two and then show us the result.

 

Also I do not think your comparison stacks up. You are showing the stocks of what would have been custom guns in their day having been manufactured from higher grade woods and had much more time spent on their finish. They are not the general user (farmer) models which were built in their hundreds.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I would hardly call the OPs' 3k gun a general user (farmer) model!

Edited by Bad Monkey
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hi guys, went out for first time with new gun today, yup in the lovely rain, ive had the gun about 6 mnths now but today was first time out in wet weather, shot a round of 60 clays in the rain, gun gets rather wet in proccess, gets back home (20 minit ride), takes gun out of bag for drying/cleaning....wow...whats happened to my stock?? looks like its a varnished stock and someones threw paintstripper on it, grain was swollen n not looking too good, :unhappy: .

anyhow after drying and leaving to air out for a few hours its gone down a bit but some still remains and is a bit unsightly, ive shot my beretta in the rain before without this problem (my son used it today..no problems). but my nice new browning that is oil finished (beretta too) has turned sour on me after one single use in wet weather.

anyone know why this could have happened, ?? its a £3k gun so should have expected better than this. any cures? or back to dealers (long ride)

heres a few pics taken later tonite.

cheers for advice.

 

dave.

well enuff is enuff...ive called the rfd today about the browning stock only to be told that BROWNING have SENT IT BACK saying the finish is not covered under warranty???? so in my opinion the gun is NOT FIT FOR PURPOSE.!! a shower of rain should not do this to a brand new gun surely? gladley the frd has took sympathy for me and sent it to their re-finishers for repair, so ..browning can now kiss my fat **** in future, i will never reccomend them to anyone and never buy another browning product, im seriously considering traading it in for another beretta...not at all happy, :no::sad1:

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If you shoot well with the gun when your Rfd has had the stock refinished why not stick with it. The gun should be fine from then on.

thats very true iggy, but once your confidence has been let down its gunna stick in yor mind that it "may" happen again, it realy is a lovely gun and im hopeing my rfd will do a great job and persuade me to stick with it.

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I well understand your current view of Browning but good on your RFD for doing the right thing.

Best of luck with the outcome.

im full of praise right now for the rfd, fingers crossed that their re-finishers do a better job than brownings, i rly want to keep the gun but brownings after service have made me think twice.

My exact same experience dealing with Browning UK.

 

Absolutely ****. Won't be touching any Browning product that goes through there hands.

same here , just hope my rfd serves me better than browning have.

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