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Night master atom add on nv


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As Telf says get a Ward D 700 you won't regret it. Put a black Sun T20 unit on it and you will be very happy, I have one and it's the best investment I made.

Even new you will get a couple of hundred pounds change out of a grand and they will punch out to as far as you would want to shoot in the dark.

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What didn't you like about them Telf? A friend has been using the original build and reckons it outperforms his 870!

 

I'd be interested to know. The general feedback is that the side mounted battery makes it look too bulky. I use a really good quality (£60 each!) 12v li-ion battery, this gives not hours of use but many evenings worth, driving both the led and the unit itself. One battery for everything, so I want to keep that. The illuminator I might scale down a bit as in reality, who really needs 700 yards?

 

I hear the Marky unit keeps dying on people due to battery life, users of the Drone are electing to stick extra battery packs to the side and I'm not sure about the Wardy, but I saw inside the original and there seemed to be quite a lot of foam and sticky stuff holding things together and in place. Fine if that floats your boat.

 

I don't want to keep charging a unit everytime I come in; once a week or so I'll press the test button and if it's on three I might give it an hour or two on the charger to keep it topped up. So I think I have to stay with the larger 12v battery for now - I just need to remove all the dead space as much as possible.

 

In other words, making it teeny weeny is fine, but not that practical if you have to walk around with a spare set of batteries in your pocket ready for some nocturnal fumblings (replacing them in the field, dropping them, dropping the cap). Or worse, having to pack up and go home.

 

I've used my two for well over 18 months, no issues, on 243 no problem at all.

Edited by mick miller
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this is the thing why I like to build my own you can add or take away what you don't need.

 

some say its big but having a battery that will drive it for 3 hours plus driving the ir is not that big

as only other way is more batterys stuck to stock or in pocket

 

think hes done well fitting all whats in that unit into the size it is now

lot have seen it working and get blown away but most stay with what they have, don't ask why, that's what i would love to know

 

 

if you don't like something about it say he might be able to change it a bit

 

other thing i love about it is the one push set up and this was my winge with a lot of nv and still is turn on battery then the unit then the IR

 

with this one button and all on inc the ir just need to dim the IR to what range you shoot and your set to go

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My DVR is pretty poop (and anything I record ends up looking really grainy :unhappy: ), Darren just emailed some better footage taken with his Cube where he's filming a hut at night at over 340 yards (maybe more?). This is more indicitive of what you see through the eyepiece. Thanks Darren.

 

Edited by mick miller
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What DVR are you using to record? The footage looks like what I see through my viewfinder (I can see the leaves on that tree at 660 yards!) but when I record it it looks like dog kacka!

 

Although in that footage it does look like you're only shooting at 80 yards :lol: .

Edited by mick miller
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80 to 100 yards was about right - we don't need to shoot bunnies from further over here. :lol:

 

I just checked the date and it was the old 4715S LED in a Chinese pill not the Black Sun. I think that was using my Lawmate but I can't get it to stay on max resolution these days. As per everyone else's recordings the raw monitor image is far superior.

 

My point being, as with others, it costs less than half the price of the WDV. We don't all need 500 yards but my newer one's have the T50 Black Sun that easily shows on 500 yard trees in spotter mode or on the rifle. :)

 

How much is the Cube BTW? I've never seen a price for it.

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It's £200 cheaper than a Wardy, and that includes the illuminator and quality torch mount and a printed DSA - however, for me its not a 'business'; if people want one I'll make one, but I'm not pushing it. I just like tinkering to see what how far I can develop it. I'm certainly not getting about to get rich off it (you should see the draws of cameras and component that didn't make the cut). The cost about covers the sum of the parts.

 

Just like you, I can't work out how the big boys justify their costs given the performance and how some other get so close and fail so miserably. Other users also get hung up on how 'small' something is, completely ignoring how limited that makes its use in the field. Better to make use of the dead space between screen and scope and fill it with useful stuff... like a battery that will last more than a couple of hours :lol: .

 

I think I've found why my footage looks garbage, I had it on a small resolution and high compression - duh. I'll try some more over the next week or so, I have some fox control to do where they've gone and killed all somebody's turkeys.

 

However, I am a little distracted by a new project as the 17 hornet looms; I need to make an annealer and Old No.7 has been helping enormously with that. Ever played with an Arduino Dave? It's a bit of an eye opener for us 'making things' types.

Edited by mick miller
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What didn't you like about them Telf? A friend has been using the original build and reckons it outperforms his 870!

 

I'd be interested to know. The general feedback is that the side mounted battery makes it look too bulky. I use a really good quality (£60 each!) 12v li-ion battery, this gives not hours of use but many evenings worth, driving both the led and the unit itself. One battery for everything, so I want to keep that. The illuminator I might scale down a bit as in reality, who really needs 700 yards?

 

I hear the Marky unit keeps dying on people due to battery life, users of the Drone are electing to stick extra battery packs to the side and I'm not sure about the Wardy, but I saw inside the original and there seemed to be quite a lot of foam and sticky stuff holding things together and in place. Fine if that floats your boat.

 

I don't want to keep charging a unit everytime I come in; once a week or so I'll press the test button and if it's on three I might give it an hour or two on the charger to keep it topped up. So I think I have to stay with the larger 12v battery for now - I just need to remove all the dead space as much as possible.

 

In other words, making it teeny weeny is fine, but not that practical if you have to walk around with a spare set of batteries in your pocket ready for some nocturnal fumblings (replacing them in the field, dropping them, dropping the cap). Or worse, having to pack up and go home.

 

I've used my two for well over 18 months, no issues, on 243 no problem at all.

 

possibly didnt really spend enough time with the wardy,couldnt get the wardy to tighten up enough to stop it wobbling about,tried the shims that came with it and an old scope flip up.but couldnt get it secure,possibly because i have the ocular ring screwed quite far out,so i dont think the locking ring on the wardy was getting a grip,other than that it was ok,but that just put me off alltogether,so i have gone down the photon extreme route

as i have weaver/ picatinny rails on the rifles its not really a problem to swap scope to extreme,however you may have rekindled my interest in add-ons depending on the length of the redisigned unit,as the price you have quoted is around extreme prices

i dont really need anything up to your specs ,as im only shooting rabbits and the occasional fox,but the extra distance never comes in wrong

would be interested to know the dimensions of the new unit and pics of it when you have got one ready,as i may well be interested

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The bit about the wobbly DSA made me laugh, sorry. This is the trouble with a 'one-size fits all' approach. It doesn't always work and where I think tailored 3D manufacture can score. I made a custom DSA for one guy that used MTC Mamba's. Completely rock steady and just a small adaption to my general DSA design.

 

I'm waiting on the dual material head to arrive. That will give me much greater freedom when it comes to designing stuff as currently I have to work with the limitations of 3D printing and unsupported surfaces. I'm also switching materials away from co-polyester which, although remarkably strong and chemical resistant, also resists any attempt to bond it. Polycarbonate seems like a good bet, strong, light, resistant to shock and there are materials that can happily print alongside it but break away cleanly when complete. Perfect for support material choice.

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It's £200 cheaper than a Wardy, and that includes the illuminator and quality torch mount and a printed DSA - however, for me its not a 'business'; if people want one I'll make one, but I'm not pushing it. I just like tinkering to see what how far I can develop it. I'm certainly not getting about to get rich off it (you should see the draws of cameras and component that didn't make the cut). The cost about covers the sum of the parts.

 

Just like you, I can't work out how the big boys justify their costs given the performance and how some other get so close and fail so miserably. Other users also get hung up on how 'small' something is, completely ignoring how limited that makes its use in the field. Better to make use of the dead space between screen and scope and fill it with useful stuff... like a battery that will last more than a couple of hours :lol: .

 

I think I've found why my footage looks garbage, I had it on a small resolution and high compression - duh. I'll try some more over the next week or so, I have some fox control to do where they've gone and killed all somebody's turkeys.

 

However, I am a little distracted by a new project as the 17 hornet looms; I need to make an annealer and Old No.7 has been helping enormously with that. Ever played with an Arduino Dave? It's a bit of an eye opener for us 'making things' types.

 

I get enough headaches as it is and would never get my head round them. lol.
To be fair, the full time bonafide builders have to cover buildings lease costs, rates, machinery purchase and depreciation, tooling, wages, pensions, power, directors earnings etc that possibly add up to £40 an hour labour rates - or more. Whereas the likes of me - trying to build a part time retirement thing between the kitchen diner and a small workshop at the side of the house have very little overheads.
I don't sell as many as people may think I do, less than two a month on average across a year. I have only sold three add-on rigs, spotters are my main interest. Things are busier during dark nights but almost non existent in the summer. Most of what I advertise takes months to sell, I maybe ought to bump them more often. :hmm:
I think that's a great price for the Cube. :good:
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