Salop Matt Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Folks, For the knife type people on here, what grind do you use on your knives for small game and small tasks ? I have a custom knife being made for me and am not sure what grind to go for, am thinking just a flat grind as am pants at sharpening and think this would be the easiest to maintain and get either a DMT diamond stone thing or a Lanskey turn box. What are your thoughts and recommendations ? ATB Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjimmer Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Grind at 30 degrees, sharpen/hone at 45 degrees is the traditional way, I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salop Matt Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 So a scandi grind then ? ATB Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainBeaky Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Scandi is great for wood working, not so great for meat. You might be best off with a full flat grind, or if it will be just for game prep, a slight hollow grind. (In my opinion, your mileage may vary, etc) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovercoupe Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Scandi is a flat 30 degrees and easy to sharpen because the angle is the same so just lay it onto stone and sharpen, if you put a 45 on it it will need more practice unless you use a lansky type system. Recently i have been using a block of granite thats flat and attaching wet and dry to it to do my planer blades and they have come up super sharp so going over to this method to do my blades and its far cheaper than a few waterstones. Hollow on meat is great but harder to sharpen untill you get used to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonny thomas Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 +1 for hollow get a cheap Chinese sharpening jig off tinternet even I can use them so they must be idiot proof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonepark Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 (edited) Folks, For the knife type people on here, what grind do you use on your knives for small game and small tasks ? I have a custom knife being made for me and am not sure what grind to go for, am thinking just a flat grind as am pants at sharpening and think this would be the easiest to maintain and get either a DMT diamond stone thing or a Lanskey turn box. What are your thoughts and recommendations ? ATB Matt Scandi or flat grind of 12 degrees (24 total) for small tasks, skinning and meat processing. This is not a chopping knife, pry bar or anything similar but for cutting/slicing it is spot on assuming you are getting 58+ rockwell hardness. Lansky turn box doesn't go below 20 degrees, if knife is supplied razor sharp, unless you are doing something silly, a good knife steel would be the better first investment and a diamond steel (600+ grit) for touching up. You shouldn't need to do any substantial resharpening. Edited May 10, 2016 by Stonepark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salop Matt Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Stated as 57/58 rockwell hardness. Any recommendations on a knife steel? Am looking at a red DMT (600 grit). I have leather for a strop and autosol. ATB Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigman Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Hi Matt who's making your knife? For game and cutting string I'd go with a full flat grind nice thin stock nothing too thick are you going carbon or stainless? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonepark Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Victorinox do the modern standard smooth polish steel (i.e. no ribs, ridges, diamond cut pattern etc) in 10 inches. You can often pick up used butchers smooth steels off ebay for a fraction of the price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham M Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 +1 for hollow get a cheap Chinese sharpening jig off tinternet even I can use them so they must be idiot proof You underestimate the ingenuity of an idiot. I bought one of those little steel sharpeners that don't so much sharpen as drag an edge onto the blade, thus completely destroying the edge over time. Get a good stone and learn how to use it. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonepark Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 You underestimate the ingenuity of an idiot. I bought one of those little steel sharpeners that don't so much sharpen as drag an edge onto the blade, thus completely destroying the edge over time. Get a good stone and learn how to use it. G Classic, I always see them demonstrated on either Opinel or Victorinox and used to shave rabbit skin to pull punters at Game Fairs and which happen to be (already) nice relatively soft steel with inherently thin profiles. I was at the Edinburgh Antiques Fair (Ingleston) on Sunday with the wife for a mosey, and just about every carving set for sale had the knife edge completely ruined by using those pull through carbide sharpeners and they still had the cheek to ask for silly money and couldn't understand why I kept putting them back down after inspection........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonny thomas Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 You underestimate the ingenuity of an idiot. I bought one of those little steel sharpeners that don't so much sharpen as drag an edge onto the blade, thus completely destroying the edge over time. Get a good stone and learn how to use it. G sorry bad description mine holds the stones in a handle while the blade sits on a bed the handle is adjustable thus keeping the angle uniform this keeps skill completely out of the equation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salop Matt Posted May 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 Folks, Am really lost with this now. Products mentioned to me so far are: DMT Red/ fine stone Lanskey Turn Box Lanskey sharpening system Spyderco Sharpmaker Fallkniven DC4 I haven't a clue how to use any of these really. I had a DC4 once but gave it away as I wasn't impressed with it and gave it up quickly. My knife will have a plain flat Scandi grind on it. The maker recommends a DC4 and a strop for my requirement. So do I revisit the DC4 or a DMT and learn to sharpen like this ? Am not keen on the rod systems and someone has told me to avoid the Lanskey sharpening system! ATB Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted May 23, 2016 Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 I have no problems with the Lanskey system It takes a couple of minutes to touch blades up once they need it. What reason did the person give, if any? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salop Matt Posted May 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 They said it was poor build and inconsistent with the angles! Dunkield, are you happy with how sharp the Lansky makes your knifes and is that a micro bevel its put on or are they a full flat that the Lansky gives ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonepark Posted May 23, 2016 Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 Folks, DMT Red/ fine stone - will work, but not ideal, needs practice Lanskey Turn Box _ no use for scandi Lanskey sharpening system - will work if maker has set profile with one, otherwise no Spyderco Sharpmaker- no use Fallkniven DC4 - will work but not ideal, practice needed Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted May 23, 2016 Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 They said it was poor build and inconsistent with the angles! Dunkield, are you happy with how sharp the Lansky makes your knifes and is that a micro bevel its put on or are they a full flat that the Lansky gives ? Full flat, just one angle - once the angle was established I just use the medium stone to retouch them after 2 or 3 grallochs. They (I use one for flesh the other for bone) are certainly sharp enough for my needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savhmr Posted May 23, 2016 Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 I've found the two most useful grinds for my uses are Scandi and hollow grind. I use Japanese water stones and with a little practice, re-grinding an edge is child's play and you get razor sharp results. More time consuming than Lanski-et-all and a bit of a pain but I only need to do it once every few months for each of my knives if regularly used. A quick strop in between uses usually regains a decent polish to the edge. On my Moras, I use a quality butchers steel and give them a few wipes in between uses. I can shave with those knives. It can be as simple or as complicated as you want it to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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