Jump to content

DIY de-activation


nabbers
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have three Cogswell and Harrison single shotguns on gun watch, nobody interested, I like em, just need the space, wondering about deactivation so I can just put them on the wall, apparently they are also more valuable that way, yeah I know its a shame..

 

Anyone do there own, take or get a local engineer to do it? Gun shops charge £100 or so, make very little on the deal, I have a chap who welds stuff up and can cut steel, I could stand around and drink tea whilst he does it so he doesn't need a ticket.

 

Where can I see the spec of whats required? Assume then a trip to the proofing house is in order.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think that you can deactivate a shotgun on your own, if it is properly done, and keep the gun without the trouble and expense of getting a certificate but you cannot sell the deactivated gun without a certificate.

Untill it has been certificated it will in law still be considered to be a "firearm" . Same as with a mag restriction . Silly but thats the way it is .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was going to do a double barrel I found at an auction but when I looked at the specs (liked above) by the time you've welded the plug in the barrel the look of the gun would have been ruined

 

Can't bring myself to do that. :no:

 

All modifications are not visible from the outside if done properly. Once it's hanging on a wall who else is going to know/see them?

 

Yes, we'd all rather see them keep going but some are just past it and are better as decorations than scrap.

 

Untill it has been certificated it will in law still be considered to be a "firearm" . Same as with a mag restriction . Silly but thats the way it is .

 

Good point, how would you get it off your ticket? Can an RFD just look at it and write it off? Or can you simply declare that the gun's been "destroyed" and inform your FEO with no other evidence? :hmm:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you deactivate a shotgun it's not been destroyed as such ,you have to send it to one of the proof houses for verification and certification then send a copy to your firearms department who will then remove it from the firearms data base and it's allocation to you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

All modifications are not visible from the outside if done properly. Once it's hanging on a wall who else is going to know/see them?

 

 

It was the fact that the barrel plug is meant to have a continuous weld around it, couldn't see how it could be done without discolouring the barrels in the area of the weld, If someone knows how it is/can be done I would be interested

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It was the fact that the barrel plug is meant to have a continuous weld around it, couldn't see how it could be done without discolouring the barrels in the area of the weld, If someone knows how it is/can be done I would be interested

 

I've a Damascus barrelled gun deactivated to HO guidelines & may daughter has another steel barrelled gun the same. Can't see the weld line on either. Both professionally (gunsmith) done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Ok, I have read the Deact Spec and I think I can get an engineer to do the work for me on my 3 Cogswell and Harrison singles for about £25 a gun whilst I stand over him as he doesn't have a licence. Ive done a bit of google searching and cant find any prices for the Proof house costs, I guess it means RFD sending them the guns so thats another £20 or more each way per gun?

 

Can anyone shed light on this stage of the process?

 

I'm between a rock and a hard place, need the guns out of my cabinet, nobody really wants to buy them, I'm sentimentally attached so having them on display would be good, There could be an argument that sadly a wall hanger is worth more then a working gun. AS they match except in caliber, I should be able to make an interesting display piece.

Edited by nabbers
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I looked at a sbs that had been deactivated all under the fore end.

Firing pin hole's looked to have been recessed then a big blob of weld put over them.

A massive slot cut in the barrels from the breech to nearly the end of the fore end area with a massive lump of steel welded in the what was left of both barrels chambers. The welding was poor, but with the gun clipped back together it looked complete.

I wouldn't mind a go at that bet I could do it with a dremmel and a mig welder and perhaps an angle grinder.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thninking about this how would you weld the plug with a mig if the plug is way down in the chamber? A 2mm arc rod might be better but the angle is still **** for a good weld.

 

Looks like about 10 mins work once the plug is sized.

 

 

you do not have to put a solid ring of weld to retain the plug you can weld the plug to the barrel's using the slot you have to cut in both barrels that way the welding heat marks are hidden under the closed action.

 

Like that...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...