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Cleaning regime for a full bore rifle


Mungler
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So, I have just bought a new .308 rifle and I was idly looking on line as to whether I need to undertake some running in / shooting in to smooth out the barrel which is straight from the factory / machine shop.

 

There was a fair amount of conflicting information and broadly the summary appeared to be that if you bought a decent "brand" then you probably don't need to bother, but hey, why not fire a few rounds down it and just suck it and see.

 

This vagueness then got me into thinking about barrel cleaning. Now then, I've got an old .17 HMR and I've never cleaned it beyond pulling a bore snake through it once in a while, and it appears to have "found it's groove" because it shoots very well and all the time.

 

With my last .308, all I ever did was pull a bore snake through it and that appeared to work in terms of accuracy (the barrel was happy and the grouping good) but reading into the whole cleaning thing, it appears that microscopic powder deposits attract moisture and encourage an acidic reaction i.e. a superficial pull through clean may not be enough to stop the pitting process (and even if that starts at a microscopic level).

 

So, what does everyone do for cleaning?

 

Now then, I like shooting but I am not a particular guns and ammo nut - stripping something down into it's component parts and scrubbing each part with a toothbrush is not my bag. Life is just too short for that nonsense. Well, that nonsense and reloading obviously. So, can anyone recommend and idiot proof and quick deep cleaning routine? I'm thinking that spray foam you leave in and a couple of bore snakes (one wet and one dry).

 

Cheers all.

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Same as you mate, I always leave my guns out to 'sweat' when I get in from the cold. Then once dried out, I use youngs gun oil on a rag to clean and give a protective film on the exterior surfaces. Have two bore snakes for each caliber, one that I cover with the same oil and pull through a few times, then pull through with a clean snake. If I'm not going to use one of the rifles for a spell I'll leave the bore coated in oil.

I'm sure a lot of people will tell me off for this, but hey ho, always worked for me.

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Clean my .270 @ every 20 shots, when I move to a new box of ammo, never had an accuracy issue or pitting in the barrel. .22 Hornet I clean every time but only because it is a very old rifle and i like to take good care of it, full strip down and oil up ( oo er missus ), sure you'll find what suits you soon enough.

 

 

Scobydog

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Just like a new car, the more care you take to run the barrel in the better it will serve you. All I do with a new rifle is one shot then clean, repeat this for ten rounds, no doubt there will be better advice incoming. As for on going care, I let the rifle stand at room temp for a bit so all the condensation goes then just put a clean patch through it, if its been out in the rain I will run a patch with 'wipe out' on followed by a clean patch. Wipe out is not oil based but has an strong anti corrosive agent. I give all external metal including bolt a wipe over with an oily rag. If I feel the rifle needs it, usually after around 40 rnds I will give it a good copper removing clean. Luckily all my rifles shoot pretty much spot on even after a real deep barrel clean.

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Just crack on as you do Mungler if in the distant future it gets pitted just have it rebarreled. I have always went with the it only gets dirty to a point and then cleans itself.

 

This is what I do. My Tikka T3 barrel is rarely cleaned ( and my .22rf never ) and prints groups better than I can shoot despite one dealer telling me it is pitted. It was secondhand when I got it so may have been pitted even then.

A very good mate who has shot more foxes with his Sako than anyone I know, literally never cleans it an has owned it from new over 15 years ago. The mod' is never removed and is corroded to the point it 'vents' quite dramatically at night, and is pinpoint accurate.

I'm not saying don't clean it, or in fact neglect it, but in my experience it doesn't seem to make a difference to a rifles accuracy.

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I'm just bedding my new 243 in and I've shot it, cleaned it with a dry patch then shot again . 12 rounds in I've put a couple through between cleaning .

I've let it cool down between shots and just used window cleaning as manufacturer says to clean it.

 

The shop said just shoot and clean for 5 rounds then carry on. I'm just taking it easy and enjoying it.

 

My hmr was just shot from the off and I've never worried. I clean it every box of ammo with bore cleaner and its 3/4" at 120 yards.

Edited by team tractor
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Leaving a barrel dirty will shorten its life. However, cleaning can be a PITA with some chemicals.

 

Ditch the bore snake unless your rigorous in washing it out after every use, which it sounds like you won't be, and buy a single piece rod, jag, patches, bore guide, short pistol brush and some patch-out and accelerator.

 

Patch the rifle through with patch-out followed by accelerator, go and have a coffee, come back and patch through until clean (5 minutes tops). Every 20 to 30 rounds follow the same procedure but follow up with the short, nylon pistol brush well wetted, then patches - more **** will come out. When patches are clean you're done.

 

Clean muzzle threads and crown with toothbrush and patch-out, it'll foam up, wipe clean and a light coat of gun oil. Wipe the barrel exterior with a light coat of gun oil.

 

When using the rod take care as the jag/brush exits the crown, don't let it rattle around. Either fit a stop to the rod or carefully push the jag back in.

 

Brushes are a one way deal some say but as I only use them after patching the worst out I'll back and forth them. Make sure to rinse out in isopropyl alcohol if using a copper brush, that's why I use nylon, ìt can be cleaned with soapy water and dried.

 

Buy a gun stand (MTM CASE GAURD) it'll make cleaning easier with the rod.

 

When using patch-put put a rag over the butt if you have a wooden stock as it will dissolve any lacquer or oil coating.

 

Every so often clean the lug recesses and locking lug race ways. Always mop out any gunk that collects there after patching through with a chamber mop or patch wrapped round a brush, something like that.

 

I'll say again, ditch the bore snake, waste of time in anything other than a shotgun.

 

The problems of leaving a gun dirty are twofold. Firstly, carbon attracts moisture and the moisture creates rust which will cause pitting, copper left on the steel will cause galvanic corrosion which will attack the surface.

 

I never leave rifles dirty for longer than 24 hours, my cleaning regime at worst takes half an hour. Mostly it takes about ten minutes. Who hasn't got ten minutes?

 

Mind you, you're not fiscally challenged so if you can't be bothered with all that just leave it and rebarrel when it's knackered. Job, as you say, jobbed.

Edited by mick miller
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I would fire 1 use as part of zeroing rifle then remove the bolt and patch through with a good copper solvent until no sign of copper or crud. (I would count the patches until they come out clean)


repeat the process, and see if the patches used in the next few shots start to reduce in number to get to clean. You may find with some luck that a good quality barrel may need very few shots to run in.




Just get it Zeroed for 50 yards :good: Oh and get as many in the Mag as you can :lol: Oooo you can only get 4 in yours :lol::rolleyes:

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Sorry bit lost here

 

Didn't your new gun come with a shot card from the gun makers

Normally the gun maker shoots it and sends a test card so the running in of the barrel is done is done

It's also been proofed

 

So basically running in should be unnecessary

 

As for cleaning and storage the makers usually talk you through this and /or demonstrate at one of your fittings

 

Mine is a tad old fashioned and hates bore snakes

 

Anyway best of luck with your new gun

 

All the best

Of

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Sorry bit lost here

 

Didn't your new gun come with a shot card from the gun makers

Normally the gun maker shoots it and sends a test card so the running in of the barrel is done is done

It's also been proofed

 

So basically running in should be unnecessary

 

As for cleaning and storage the makers usually talk you through this and /or demonstrate at one of your fittings

 

Mine is a tad old fashioned and hates bore snakes

 

Anyway best of luck with your new gun

 

All the best

Of

 

 

Unfortunately mine is made by a Fritz Bosch type and so everything is in Deutsch.

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Do you check zero after a good clean? Is the point of impact likely to change?

 

 

I know some folk that never clean their rifle and it'll group great. Each to their own.

Only if I missed 😊

 

Seriously I always check the bigger stalking rifles however the 222 I don't any more as it's always spot on in fact it's only off when it needs cleaning

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Kg 1 carbon remover.

Kg 12 bore cleaner.

Tipton cleaning rod.

Aluminium jag.

Nylon brush.

Round calibre specific proshot patches.

A good bore guide.

 

Nothing I have used before is as quick and easy to use as the kg stuff,it takes far less patches than any other product I have used.

You can replicate a clean bore but not a dirty one.

It's all about doing away with all the variables.

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