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Rusty barrels


henry d
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A cautionary tale.

 

I was out at the rabbits a few nights ago and always take the .222 and my shotty for fox etc.and as I was single handed I have the rifles on the passenger seat and the shotgun in the back lying in the slip but unzipped.

I shot a few rabbits and a feral cat the farmer wanted rid of as it has been around the pens,the bodies were put into the back and when I got home as I hadn`t needed to use the shotgun it went back in the cabinet un-wiped :lol: Wrong thing to do as I found out last night that a long line of blood from one of the bodies had got into the slip and onto the bottom barrel and there is a long rusty line 3/4 the length of the barrel :lol:

 

I won`t be doing that again :lol: Always give your guns a wipe before they go into the cabinet :good:

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Henry

 

its a old problem, the blue on some guns is also not as good as on others, I only have to point some of mine at the salt marsh and rust starts, Bo has a little at the open end of the tubes :good: and no amount of oil/grease can keep it away, its not a problem on my wildfowl guns as i expect a bit from time to time, but i would worry if it came through on my AYA game gun

 

I have tried the normal methods and clean all my guns as soon as I get home, but once its in it seems to come back, why is that??? can you keep it at bay without a re blue???

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may or may not help but i have had similar problems with an older gun during winter here, temps around minus 20c, coming in from the cold as you know the gun will sweat or condesate this will induce rust quickly, my cure was to coat the gun completely in a molycoat SO2 protection, and i mean completely, inside and out right through the barrels, no rust, its a product i have sworn by over many years now, made by Dow Corning called 321 dry lubricant, i use it on all my guns hand auto's, wheel, rifle and shotgun, no problem , touch up as nessasary throughout the year, i usualy do them twice, chokes also, if you back search you can see a breakdown of my guns going through a season starter for 10 .

 

http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/ind...mp;hl=the+twins

 

try it you never know you may like it :good:

 

Martin

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In our damp climate ,it goes with out saying..I keep an old oily rag, soaked in old engine oil,wrung out! when it get dry, moistuise it again with the old gloves on, old engine oil has the carbon & black,to keep my barrels & guns ,like new...

then throw it in the bottom of ya cabinet to keep the damp outa there...easy! :good:

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In our damp climate ,it goes with out saying..I keep an old oily rag, soaked in old engine oil,wrung out! when it get dry, moistuise it again with the old gloves on, old engine oil has the carbon & black,to keep my barrels & guns ,like new...

then throw it in the bottom of ya cabinet to keep the damp outa there...easy! :lol:

 

you are joking rite?:lol:?

 

dirty can cause skin cancer

if you realy do this you are bonkers :good:

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may or may not help but i have had similar problems with an older gun during winter here, temps around minus 20c, coming in from the cold as you know the gun will sweat or condesate this will induce rust quickly, my cure was to coat the gun completely in a molycoat SO2 protection, and i mean completely, inside and out right through the barrels, no rust, its a product i have sworn by over many years now, made by Dow Corning called 321 dry lubricant, i use it on all my guns hand auto's, wheel, rifle and shotgun, no problem , touch up as nessasary throughout the year, i usualy do them twice, chokes also, if you back search you can see a breakdown of my guns going through a season starter for 10 .

 

http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/ind...mp;hl=the+twins

 

try it you never know you may like it :good:

 

Martin

 

hey Mart

 

hows my fav bar tender, still missing me, lol

 

looked at your pics, if i took my guns apart their would be bits left over :lol: will look up the spray and see if i can try it out, cant believe you never dropped me a can when i came over,

 

wonder if NTTF can bring some when he comes over later this month,

 

pavman

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Bluing is essentially controled chemical rusting, except you produce magnetite which is a black oxide of iron, as opposed to iron(III)oxide which has the more normal reddish rust colour to it.

 

Once the magnetite coating has been removed via exessive wetting and then rusting you loose the small amount of protection it formed and expose the steel (which is high in iron) which will rust much more readily than the blued surface. Re-bluing will fix this, as long as the rusting has been removed properly (000 guage wire wool works well)

 

I find that corrosion phase inhibitors work extremely well for protecting un-blued bits (napier vp90 is what I use). You can get field patches (not cheap) which look a bit like KFC wipe up towels, but they have this funky stuff in them that means stuff doesn't rust. Shove a vp90 pouch in the cabinet and it keeps things sweet.

 

I have bare steel parts on my barrels, it gets some use that thing, and I have no rust. I don't always wipe it down and I don't clean it every time I use it - and its not rusty.

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