oneshot1979

As title. 1 Jay available for Larsen trap in North Devon. Usual circle of trappers have disbanded/given up, hell ones even gone all Packham !. Social distancing not a problem. Looking for a bird in return if you're successful.

Original spring, removed degreased checked over and refitted. Work the action for good 5mins to compress and release spring to condition as such after so long stood up. It has to be the piston. It's the only thing that's changed. A little googling had suggested a slightly heavy piston would bring the performance up. The old nylon one was cracked up and worn beyond repair so fashioned one out of what I had available. Will have to source some nylon and try again. Iron sights were removed long ago and lost in the mists of time. Might look into the red dot idea. Once it's sorted the missus and eldest have expressed interest in using it to keep the bird feeders free if vermin so a simple sight may suit them more. Will pull it apart later........

So what are my options then? Would the piston weight really make that much difference?. Is there any other way if damping it?. Is there a particular scope that's better suited to the abuse? Could I convert to a gas ram. I know it's only an old BSA but it has sentimental value and if I can get it reliable would be a great thing to pass down to my girls.

As the title says really. Decided to dig out a couple old springers from the cupboard for some plinking fun. One of them is a 74-78 BSA mercury that I grew up with and hasn't been used in over 10 years plus so first job was to strip down and inspect it. Gave it a good once over, new breech seal, deburr and polish up inside etc. Also got carried away and did away with the knackered nylon piston and with no new part to hand quickly turned up a phosphor bronze piston and fitted a new "O" ring. Reassembled with original spring and ran 20-30 lube saturated pellets through. Quick clean of the barrel and then remounted original ASI 4x32 scope that's been on it the last 20 years and settled down to zero it. Using Accupels started to get nice tidy groups straight away so started adjusting point of aim to correct zero but after 20 or so pellets the groups started have really random flyers, two inches off target and more. Sat back and scratched my head and noticed the cross hairs looked a little canted off, was sure I had them level, ho hum readjust and try again. 10 shots later cross hairs have canted again. Now I'd marked the scope so I know it's not turning in the rings, must be a fault in the old scope I thought. Pulled scope off and decided sod it. Stripped down the rear of the scope (nothing to lose) and had a look. Turns out the loctite holding the cross hair reticule had let go allowing it to rotate. Mutter mutter. Back to the cupboard, no practical spare scope available.... Brainwave. Quickly whip the EIB 6x40 scope off of the .22WMR and onto the Mercury. Boresighted to save wasting pellets and tried zeroing again. SAME DAMN THING. Good tidy groups, sudden flyers and low and behold cross hair canted. Two scopes wrecked in under 50-60 pellets. Now that EIB scope has been on the .22WMR for the best part of 15yrs and seen some heavy use onfoot and in vehicles she's the go to gun for anything close enough to be heard from the kitchen window and has been bounced dropped and knocked and never moved off zero enough to make me worry but 20-30 shots on a sodding spring gun and the reticule is knackered. Am I missing something ? Can the forces in the recoil of a Springer really be worse than that of a .22WMR. Really not in the mood to wreck another scope just to prove a point, plus all the others available in the cabinet are considerably dearer than the two I've wrecked so far. Thoughts from the collective please ?

Normally used to make a laser level easier to see in daylight.

One of my top films and my kids have nearly worn a groove in the DVD too. A dam good western in its own right without the brilliant animation. It's made such an impression on my 10yr old daughter we're currently doing our isolation by watching the old Sergio Leone classics.

Had this one tucked away safely for a good few years now. Always wondered if it'd be worth anything...... All intact with original staples.

Dead south...... In hell I'll be in good company.

Touchwood.... Haven't had a relapse in 4yrs but after a big work accident 6 years ago I had crippling back pain amongst many other issues. Docs told me to think myself lucky and I'd have to live with it then doled me out Naproxen and Tramadol like smarties. NHS physio was a waste if time, couldn't understand my desire to get back to work and refused me extra appointments so I found myself a good Chiropractor and Acupuncturist. Weekly hour long sessions for two months and I've never looked back, sure I've got other aches and pains but nothing holds you back like back pain

https://youtu.be/1cNSfuBAApI Got given one of these as a gift for site work. Looked gimmicky but is actually very handy.

Eccentric chap up the road has a hand reared pair running loose in his garden. 6" tall and as near to living dinosaurs as you'll ever see. Yet my 4 and 9 year old girls will sit on a bench hand feeding them dock leaves like they're our own chickens.

Banjo, and half brother Dug.

The cylinder can be saved if it's not scored and only has ally fouling on it. Brick acid/patio cleaner wiped on with a cotton wool pad and long pliers will dissolve the ally without damaging the Nikasil lining. Then a quick scuff up with a bit of scotchbrite wrapped around a bolt in a battery drill will give it enough hatching to bed in a new ring and piston. Regarding Husqvarnas only running on a certain 2 stroke oil. It's to do with a clever idea called "oil gaurd" The K760 disc cutters are fitted with it. It's a small optical sensor in the fuel line, the genuine "oil gaurd" oil has a particular light refraction agent in it and if the sensor does not read it it will not energise the coil. It's there to stop moomins from chucking neat fuel in the saw and trashing it. The fact that Husqvarna have fitted a bypass tag that you just pull out so you can run standard oil is probably the reason there's so many on the sales sites for repair

First things first, is there good compression? Quick field test is to place saw on floor and try to lift it by the pull start. Saw should lift from floor without pull cord coming out. If the saw starts to "bump" down the cord too fast remove spark plug and pull off the exhaust have a look in the port, and slowly pull the cord looking at the piston as it travels past the opening. If there is heavy scoring or blending of aluminium over the rings then it's time for a rebuild. Whilst the exhaust is off check to see that any spark arrestor fitted is not clogged. Next refit plug and spray a little fairy liquid around the decompression button and pull it over, any bubbles appearing mean a leak. After that assuming you have good compression try and start the saw, after ten or so pulls whip the plug out and have a look at it, is it wet or dry. If it's dry check the impulse line from the crankcase to carb for splits, any leak here will stop your carb from priming and therefore stop your fuel supply. As already mentioned a small squirt of fuel/brake cleaner down the carb throat and then pull it over will prove its a fueling issue. Also check your tank vent isn't clogged. If the plugs wet then check your carb settings, in to face and out 3/4 of a turn should get it fire and run with a bit of throttling. If not then you've deeper issues. Try it and let us know.

Model of saw would help a lot. Early huskys are easy fixers, later stuff not so much.

Cast items can be a real case of Russian roulette, composition of the material will vary widely especially on stuff like garden furniture which will make appropriate rod selection difficult. You could opt for a dissimilar rod which will give you the best chance of a sound well fused weld, in order to avoid preheating use short 3/4 -1inch welds well peened in between and allow time to cool to the touch between runs, this will give you your best chance against cracking, but this will leave you with a bright silvery bead that will stick out like a sore thumb even if ground flush. For me, my go to rod for cast repairs is ESAB OK92.18 in 2.5mm. This is a true cast rod, and blends with the parent metal almost seamlessly. I have had great success with it on cylinder heads, engine blocks, hydraulic pump casings and many other things. It's big issue is the weld pool, I can only describe it as "fluffy", you will struggle to see the weld metal through the slag and you just have to be confident, A big tip to make the job easier and neater is the use sacrificial plates at both ends of the weld so the weld pool is well established as you reach the repair area.

Neighbour of mine showed up on the doorstep backalong proudly carrying an ALDI bought Parkside 130amp inverter stick and asked for some lessons, I'll admit to a little snobbery when he unboxed it, at £70 with leads, auto darkening helmet, chipping hammer and a small pack of rods how good could it be. Well for a start it comes with a 3 year money back or like for like guarantee. No need to post off and register like some of the trade names just rock up to your local store with the receipt, so in theory you can't loose. We ran all the 2.5mm 6013 rods it came with pretty much non stop, partly as he was keen to learn but mostly to see how long before it overheated or popped. It ran fine so we moved up to some 3.2mm 7018 that I had in the van. He didn't like them but the welder never even faltered. For that £70 you could nearly call it a disposable welder on a site job and for DIY around the house I don't think you could go wrong.

Thank you very much Ditchman. I take that as a real compliment from yourself. Very little chipping mostly just wire brushing, by the time you've completed the other side of the run the first one has cooled and the glassy flux shatters. Unless..... you have the amperage too high, in which case the flux runs into the undercut and glazes over the bead like a diamond coating requiring a needle gun, a hammer to rival Thors and 4.5 inch wire wheel mounted to a 9 inch grinder to remove. A mistake you only make once. Trust me.

They can be hard to restrike part way through a rod as when you stop the slag seals the end of the rod, either a little whip at the end of a run to flick the slag off the end or a tap on the end of the rod with the side of your chipping hammer will make a big difference. A little trick I use when running 5mm rods is a piece of an old file tacked and screwed to the handle of my chipping hammer to quickly dress the end of the rod for restart.

I think that was me and it was 7016 rods. I'm sorry you didn't have any luck with them. They do need an open circuit voltage of 60v and above to burn, some of the smaller inverter units run at around 48v and will struggle or just plain refuse to run these rods.

We use these safes at work for vehicle keys and find the drivers slam the doors so hard the batteries launch out the rear of the battery box. Solution, cheap battery holder off fleabay and a short length of twin core speaker wire. Double sided tape it to the roof of the safe extend the wiring off the board to the new power supply. Job done. Word of warning though, these safes are the frighteningly easy to break into. And offer nothing more than the slightest of deterrents to a would be thief.

Somme mud by EPF LYNCH. Aussie infantrymans diary of the first world war. Gripping funny harrowing but unputdownable. First light by Geoffrey Wellum. Youngest spitfire pilot to fight in the battle of Britain. Past away only last week at 96. One the best accounts of both dogfights and ground life during early ww2. Both relatively short books but will stay with you for a long time after.

They are a bit specialist but give a beautiful weld with virtually no manipulation needed to manage flux. 6013 will do the job yes but if you want a pretty set of railings then splash out in the 7016. If you can' find them locally let me know. I'm sure I can sort something out.