G.I. countrysports U.K. GARY

Double H... You missed the point, maybe I was too brief in my explanation... Scenario: The day is going fine, birds decoying well, getting to mid afternoon... The birds start to get really hungry and want to get on another part of the field, totally ignoring your now pretty impressive pattern. A quick check (to see if anything is not quite right amongst the decoys) but all seems perfect. The fact is that the birds now know where you are. Just about everything that was coming to that particular field has given your decoys the once over and nearly got caught out in doing so. Two choices: 1. Pack in and move to where the birds now want to be, (not really a good idea it would take too long to move, and the day would be over before I get all sorted out) 2. SHOW THEM A MAGNET I have done this 100s of times, previously shot at birds seem to throw caution to the wind and pile in, the movement when the birds are really hungry is just what they want to see. This dodge can turn an otherwise good day into something really special. Putting the magnet out at the correct time is the key to success... However, if the birds had seen the magnet earlier on in the day and then it was brought in, it has no effect whatsoever, in fact, it pretty much puts them off... That is the point I was trying to get across... All the very best Gary

I thought that tip 4 might be misunderstood. Some/most magnets allow you to angle the attitude of the bird on the end of the arms. If yours does not do this, then I suggest that you alter the arms to allow it. If you place the birds on normally, then they would be flat/level, by turning the bird outwards or inwards it would then have an angle. Angle 1 bird to face outwards and the other bird to face in towards the machine, in fact both birds (looking from side on) would have the same attitude. If you angle both outwards, while the magnet is turning it looks really odd from a distance (something I get to see far more than anyone) (viewing patterns and set ups from a distance) And the other question: No, I am not in favor of any gadgets or gismos, although to the experienced they give us options to try when things get difficult, they are not a quick fix, overall they won't enable you to shoot more birds. Decoying skills are far more important. Similar: A scope on a rifle makes a good shot far better, and a bad shot far worse... If I still have not explained the turning the birds one out & one in very well, please, someone try to do it better for me... All the very best Gary

At this time of year (exactly at this time of year) we loose the birds for a couple of weeks mainly to Beech and Ash budding... Woodpigeons love this valuable food source... They dont eat the buds although that is how we refer to this act. They actually eat the trees flowers. Right at this time of year both Ash and Beech trees come into flower. The birds can feed exclusively on these trees for up to 3 weeks, after then the trees are past the flowering stage and they then offer no food value... It happens every year, we always loose the birds for this period. However, they will leave the trees alone for better food value e.g. Drilling I think that as far as what value do they get from the tree flower, it is quality grub, because they refuse all other greenstuffs. You will see the odd one here and there on other kinds of crops like peas growing through and Rape, but I do think that the tree flower is the prefered choice... Take a close look at a Beech tree right now, some of them will be laden with flower, I say some of them, the ones that were heavy with beech mast last year will hardly have a flower on this year, they seem to run in a 2 year cycle... Maybe someone could enlighten me further about the 2 year thing... All the very best Gary

I thought it would be a good idea to give my thoughts and experiences on using Magnets. I would like to start by saying they are not my favorite gadget, but they have their uses (on the right day, at the right time) TOP TEN TIPS... (really 11) 1. Always 30 meters from the head of the pattern. 2. Close in, not well out in the field. 3. Get the magnet low, really low down, we don't use the stand unless in tall crops. 4. Angle the birds one facing into the magnet and one facing out (so that you can see both birds at the same time) not both birds facing out. 5. Speed control set to a natural Pigeon coming in speed. 6. Replace the birds that you started with as soon as you have shot 2 fresh ones (they look 100 times better than old birds) 7. Start the day off without it. 8. It will work best when the day is going along nicely and then the birds start shying away. Show them the magnet at this point for instant results... 9. Use very long arms, ours are 7 foot long on each side (5ft arm with 2ft extension bar) they eat the batteries at this length, but they work far better. 10. Don't bother with it on calm/still days, they will scare more birds than they will bring in, much better with plenty of wind. I know that I said TOP TEN TIPS but this one is also important... 11. Make sure the colour of the magnet is correct for the time of year and the crop you are shooting over... a. BROWN & BLACK for drillings (cheap fence paint, totally matt in colour when dry) b. SAND & BLACK for laid Barley and stubble (exterior house paint, sandtex etc) c. GREEN & BLACK for Rape (any car paint supplier will make this up for you, ask for olive drab with plenty of matting agent added) GO LIGHT ON ADDING THE MATT BLACK (blackboard paint) APPLY TO THE MAGNET IN SMALL SPLODGES ALL OVER WITH A SMALL PAINT BRUSH. WITHOUT THE BLACK THE MAGNET DOES NOT BLEND IN WELL, IT IS A MUST... Hope this helps... All the very best Gary

As a full time professional guide shooting a great deal of woodpigeons every year, I would like to add a few valid points to this interesting debate... 1. Woodpigeon numbers are not down, in fact, exactly the opposite. The overall population of Woodies has continued to grow since 1975. 2. The majority of Woodpigeons do not breed until mid July - mid September with only 30% of the population breeding outside those months. ...WHEN SHOULD WE HAVE THIS CLOSED SEASON... 3. The whole country has experienced a very difficult spring with regard to numbers of birds shot. Mainly down to the weather patterns that we have had. The birds are still there, we just don't see them all of the time. 4. Bag limits are a great idea, however, they tend to be forgotten about just as soon as the limit is reached. 5. Pigeon Guides/operations shooting with their clients wouldn't account for 10% of the numbers of Woodpigeons shot yearly in this country. As always, we need to blame someone... 6. The Woodpigeon is classified a PEST species, not a gamebird. Maybe we need to have the bird re-classified. THE SHOOTING OF WOODPIGEONS IS PRETTY MUCH SELF REGULATING, THE OVERALL AVERAGE SHOOTING DAY PER MAN IS NOT THAT MANY BIRDS, EVEN FOR THE GUIDES. DON'T FIX WHAT ISN'T BROKE I WOULD BE THE FIRST ONE TO PACK IN IF I THOUGHT I WAS HAVING AN IMPACT ON THE OVERALL NUMBERS OF WOODPIGEONS IN MY AREA, NEVER MIND THE ENTIRE COUNTRY.... All the very best Gary

IN ANSWER TO EARS RESPONSE DATED JULY 7th DO WOODPIGEONS PAIR FOR LIFE? I really do not know the answer to that question. All of the research that I have read on the subject has not touched on this subject. Maybe the study would be impossible to carry out anyway. I can only add with a very interesting observation that I made earlier this year. Pair of woodies sat in a tree, definate pair, saw the cock bird mating. What I thought was another cock bird joined this pair and started pestering the first cock bird. I thought that it was trying to drive the bird away from his female. They flew from tree to rooftop several times before the pestering bird lay down and allowed the male from the initial pair to mate. So, the bird that joined the initial pair was a hen that obviously went to great lengths to be mated... DO WOODPIGEONS MATE FOR LIFE? No, I don't think so. All the very best Gary G.I. country sports U.K.

GREAT PHOTOS... YOUR A LUCKY GUY... ALL THE VERY BEST... GARY

DURING THE LAST FEW WEEKS SPORT HAS BEEN DIFFICULT TO FIND... THE BIRDS ARE STILL FEEDING, JUST THE HOURS THEY ARE KEEPING IS A REAL PAIN... THE BEST FLIGHTS ARE STARTING AT 18.00hrs. EXPECT THE FIELD TO SHOOT UP TO 19.30hrs THEN IT IS ABOUT FINISHED... CLOVER SAW THE BEST BAG OF LAST WEEK, 121 SHOTS IN 3 HOURS FROM 16.30hrs - 19.00hrs WHEN WE PACKED UP... DON'T EVEN BOTHER TO LOOK UNTILL 16.00hrs FOR YOU WILL SEE NOTHING... THE BIRDS WILL MOVE AT THE END OF THE MONTH FROM ABOUT 13.00hrs. THE FIRST BULK OF SQUABS WILL NEED FEEDING BY THEN. PEAS WILL BE THE FAVORED CROP. BY MID JUNE THE SHOOTING WILL BE ON SONG... DON'T GIVE UP SO EASILY... ALTER YOUR RECCE TIMES... IT IS JUST THE SAME FOR ME. I HAVE TO FIND SPORT EVEN WHEN THE GOING IS TOUGH... ALL THE VERY BEST GARY

Would you please add to your post N.T. I don't really understand the set up, but i am very interested... All the very best Gary

In answer to the post made by "THE SNIPER" At this time of year woodpigeons love both Ash and Beech (flower) On still/windless day's shooting any numbers at this time of year is a problem for us due to this fact. The birds gorge themselves on this (easy found) food source. When the wind is blowing a bit the birds can't get to the ends of the branches for these easy pickings so they tend to fly to fields for alternatives. Food preferances in the order that the birds will choose (given the option) at this time of year... 1. Drillings 2. Beech flower 3. Peas (sprouting) 4. Ash (flower) the long thin sprouting bits at the very end of the branches 5. Rape Remember: the birds will only fly about 3 or 4 miles maximum to feed. Check these preferances in your area and look for the birds at about 15.30hrs. It is not uncommon to find all of the above in the crop of one single bird. This then knackers up all of our findings... Just when we thought we had the job well sorted out... All the very best... Gary

I WAS CONTACTED A FEW MINUTES AGO BY A PRODUCER AT CHANNEL 4 THEY REQUIRE 2 (FRESH) DEAD WOODIES FOR A PROGRAMME THEY ARE FILMING. THE STUDIO IS IN MANCHESTER COULD SOMEONE NEAR THAT AREA PLEASE RESPOND DIRECT TO: SHONA SMITH e-mail: shosmit@supanet.com THEY WILL PAY YOU FOR YOUR TROUBLE THEY NEED THE PIGEONS IN THE MORNING, IT IS NOW 18.50HRS SUNDAY PLEASE HELP... ALL THE VERY BEST GARY

some find it difficult to keep the call bird alive for any length of time. (POOR HUSBANDRY!!!) Do not allow the call bird to foul it's own water supply, the bird will refuse to drink the water when it has messed in it. Resulting in a long thirsty death. Wire a used (washed out) food can to the side of the cage, above the height of the perch. The water supply will then stay clean, and quite possibly keep the call bird alive for longer. Mine last years... Dry dog food stays fresh for much longer than dead rabbits etc and the call birds do fine on it... All the very best Gary P.S. clip one wing of the call bird just in case someone lets it out. It is far easier to shoot it then...

WELL PUT DAVE... A TRUE SPORTSMAN INDEED... ALL THE VERY BEST... GARY

Hello everyone Took one of my labradors to a stud dog to be lined. She was ready (standing) but the dog never managed it. The Bitch was really difficult with the dog. Bloody long way to travel for nothing.... Any tips or advice.... especially for maiden bitches.... All the very best Gary

GREAT ARTICLE, WELL DONE N.T. PLEASE WRITE A BOOK... ALL THE VERY BEST GARY

I HAVE READ WITH GREAT INTEREST ALL OF THE COMMENTS CONCERNING CLOSE SEASONS... OBVIOUSLY A HOTBED FOR DEBATE, AND A VERY EMOTIVE SUBJECT... HOWEVER, A GREAT DEAL OF THE OPINIONS ARE NOT THAT WELL INFORMED... PLEASE READ THE POST I HAVE MADE IN THE CLOSED SEASON POLL, MAKE YOUR MIND UP ABOUT CLOSED SEASONS BASED ON THE FACTS, NOT IGNORANCE... ALL THE VERY BEST GARY

ALL PIGEONS (male and female) FEED THEIR YOUNG WITH MILK PRODUCED IN THEIR CROP. THE CROP WALL THICKENS (it is a gland) IN BOTH SEXES DURING THE INCUBATION PERIOD (17 days) TO PRODUCE A CHEESE LIKE SUBSTANCE WHICH THEN BREAKS DOWN TO PRODUCE PROLACTIN. SQUABS ARE GIVEN NOTHING ELSE FOR THE FIRST 3 DAYS OF LIFE, AFTER THAT THE MILK IS MIXED WITH OTHER FOODS, MORE EACH DAY, UP TO 15 DAYS WHEN THE PARENT BIRDS STOP PRODUCING THE MILK. BOTH SEXES INCUBATE THE EGGS, THE MALE, IN 90% OF OBSERVED CASES TAKING OVER FROM THE FEMALE AT AROUND 5.00PM AND DOING THE NIGHTSHIFT. 70% OF ALL YOUNG ARE REARED IN AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER. THE MAIN INCUBATION PERIOD BEING MID JULY TO MID AUGUST. SHOULD YOU LIKE TO ENFORCE YOUR OWN CLOSED SEASON, THEN DON'T SHOOT THEM FROM MID JULY TO MID OCTOBER... PREVIOUS POSTERS PLEASE TAKE NOTE... AND BY THE WAY WHEN YOU HEAR A WOODPIGEON CALLING IT IS A MALE, THE FEMALES DON'T CALL...

I WROTE AN ARTICLE SEVERAL YEARS AGO ON ROOST SHOOTING, IT MAY BE OF SOME HELP TO THOSE THAT ARE STRUGGLING WITH IT. YOUR ADVICE IS SPOT ON CRANFIELD... ALL THE VERY BEST GARY ROOST SHOOTING Woodpigeon shooting professional Gary Wilson from G. I. Country sports U. K. tackles the subject of roost shooting. In many ways, Roost shooting is very similar to flighting. It is most productive during winter when the birds have congregated into large flocks. The minimum of gear is required. The last couple of hour's daylight is all we need to spend out in the wood. Other factors will govern the success of roost shooting. Reconaisance As always, thorough groundwork will pay dividends. A good roost wood is worth its weight in gold, for it can provide exceptional sport for several months, up to the point when the woodpigeon flocks break up before pairing up and breeding in March. The best woods are normally Pheasant coverts, for several reasons. Pheasant coverts are carefully managed blocks of woodland. They provide game birds with warmth and shelter. A good covert has the essential ingredients of a thick hedge or windbreak surrounding it, areas of medium height roosting cover (normally conifers and bushes), and taller mature trees to drive the Pheasants over. This type of woodland also has the exact requirements that the woodpigeon is looking for in a good roost wood. Pheasant coverts are normally shot as afternoon drives up to a maximum of once a week. The keeper will always ensure that his birds have plenty of time to return to the wood in order that they may roost in peace. For the rest of the time the woods are left quiet. Because of the strict regime that the gamekeeper ensures, Woodpigeon accumulate in very large numbers in these woods. Roost shooting does not take place in the woods until the end of the game-shooting season when the beaters and other shoot helpers who have attended every shoot day are allowed to have a go at the pigeon. Any aspiring woodpigeon shooter should get himself involved with his local game shoot in order that he may be invited roosting at the end of the season. In order that we may find the best areas of the wood to shoot, we must first take a walk around the wood bottom looking for tell tale signs of roosting woodpigeon. During winter, woodpigeon feed mainly on Rape. This highly digestible food source scours the birds, resulting in large splashes of white guano covering everything beneath the preferred roosting branches. This is what we are looking for. Woodpigeon also preen a lot, and hundreds of small white preen feathers will be stuck to the surrounding cover. These signs tell us that the birds are using that part of the wood to roost, and that this area would be the best place to set up near. During winter about 3.00pm will see the first woodpigeon coming into the wood to roost. At this time, we ought to be set up waiting for the main flight to arrive. Wind / Weather The wind strength and weather will play a major part in the success of a good roost shoot. A gale of wind will keep the birds down. They will approach the wood from the downwind side and come straight in to the wood without hesitation. During still conditions, the birds will tend to circle the wood first, in effect checking out if all is well before settling. In addition, certain wind directions will suit a particular wood. In my area, southwesterly winds are undoubtedly the best for roost shooting. Equipment can be kept to a minimum comprising of gun, cartridges, gamebag, lightweight hide net and a couple of hide poles. I prefer to put up a screen of netting in front of me when I roost shoot for a couple of reasons. If you do not take a cam net, you will find that you will hide behind any available cover within the wood. In general, this will not be the best vantagepoint to intercept the birds as they flight into the wood. A far better idea is to watch closely as the first bird's flight home and set up directly under the point where they are entering the wood. This will maximise your chances of having a very good flight. In very large woods, several shooters out in the same wood can be a good idea as this keeps the woodpigeon on the move and stops them from piling into a part of the wood without being shot at. The larger woods tend to have organised roost shoots, which are great fun. A sweepstake on the total number of birds shot should be organised at the start, all proceeds to be donated to the countryside alliance {please take note} A good dog for picking up is a necessity when roost shooting. The light will be fading fast towards the end of the flight. Picking up your own shot birds ruins a good flight as far too much time is wasted searching in the undergrowth for runners. A good dog can be sent out to do the job efficiently while you concentrate on the shooting. Pick up the shot birds as you go along this saves time at the end. Over shooting, a particular wood can be a problem. This will result in the flocks of Woodpigeon relocating to a more quiet wood, resulting in the loss of some cracking sport. Roost shooting the wood once a week is plenty and done correctly will provide the sportsman with testing shooting throughout the whole winter. Erecting towers within the wood to enable the shooter to stand in the treetops can provide some very challenging sport. Woodpigeon flighting straight towards you at eye level are very similar to driven grouse, and they can be extremely difficult to hit. Before any such project to erect towers in a wood are undertaken. I would suggest that you should know the flights to and from the wood like the back of your hand. Obviously, the towers need constructing directly under these flights. Decoys lofted into the treetops can assist in pulling the birds to your part of the wood. Lofting is very time consuming so I would suggest putting up permanent pulley lines in order that you may hoist up several decoys in seconds on your arrival at your favourite position. Roost shooting Woodpigeon is fantastic sport. It can be very testing and due to losing a lot of the shot pattern in the branches, kills to cartridge ratios are well down. Remember try to ignore the branches and concentrate on the bird and you will find that you will shoot far better.

I have picked up on some of Lincolnshires best estates for 20 years. Here are a few of my tips for getting the best out of your young dog. 1. Never, ever, let the dog go straight for a bird while the drive is still underway. I guarantee if you do send the dog straight away, one of those times, a bird will be shot just as your dog is being sent out, and it will change birds for the one that is still bouncing about. Often the new bird being a very long way from where you are standing. Always, always, wait untill the drive has ended before picking up, that way the dog gets very used to sitting rock steady untill it hears the whistle or horn for the end of the drive. The latter also ensures that your dog will sit rock solid next to you, when you get the chance of standing at a peg. Many dogs steadiness is ruined by sending them for runners during the drive. The dog begins to think that a dead static bird has to be ignored, but a running bird must be picked straight away, which is obviously, what you do not want, all the time. 2. Stand a long way back with a young dog, it is far easier to keep it steady. 3. Do not be afraid to use the lead if the dog becomes a bit too hot. 4. Try as best as possible to work a young dog away from the bulk of the birds, young dog, 1,000s of pheasants, I'm sure you get the picture... 5. Keep your very steady young dog away from unsteady older dogs, the unsteadyness has a bad habit of rubbing off on young dogs. All the very best Gary

WELL SAID WILL... IF ONLY THE FARMERS WERE MORE OPEN MINDED ABOUT PIGEONS... THEY LOOK AT ME "GONE OUT" AT THE SLIGHTEST MENTION OF NOT USING GAS GUNS, FLAGS, ROCKETS, SCREAMERS ETC ETC. HOWEVER, WILL IS ABSOLUTELY SPOT ON, THE MORE HASSLE YOU GIVE THE BIRDS, THE MORE WASPIER AND DIFFICULT THEY BECOME... RESULT... LESS PIGEONS SHOT MORE FEEDING ON WINTER RAPE WITHOUT ANY CHANCE OF CONTROLING THEIR NUMBERS. ALL THE VERY BEST GARY

GREAT PHOTOS, THE BEST I HAVE EVER SEEN OF GEESE IN NUMBERS, WOULD HAVE BEEN A PRIVILEGE JUST TO WATCH AND LISTEN TO THAT LOT... ALL THE VERY BEST GARY

FLIGHTLINES Woodpigeon shooting professional, Gary Wilson from G.I. Countrysports U.K. deals with the subject of flightlines. Flocks of feeding Woodpigeon move from their roosting woods to the fields in which they feed using well-established flightlines. These regularly travelled routes have been used by generations of pigeon and are well known by all. Every area where woodpigeon are found has these flyways in the sky. The serious decoy shooter knows all the flightlines in his area of operations like the back of his hand. He also understands how this knowledge can be used to his advantage when conducting reconnaissance prior to a day's shoot, and also the superb sport those lines have to offer, especially during winter when flight shooting. The Grandfather of Woodpigeon shooting, the late Major Archie Coats, penned the phrase {any time spent conducting reconnaissance is never wasted} when dealing with the subject of recognising flightlines, never a more true word has been spoken. Good flightlines tend to run parallel with natural features such as hedges, dykes, treelines, and rivers. Woodpigeon also use man made features for flightlines such as roads, and pylon lines. When crossing open country, the birds will also line themselves up using prominent features such as a small spinney or copse, the corner of farm buildings, a large prominent tree etc. Prominent features and flightlines are used by the woodpigeon as navigational aids in order that they can operate many miles from their home base. To a Woodpigeon, a flightline is used in very much the same way as we use roads in our cars to get from A to B. The closer we get to the roosting woods the more heavy the traffic will become along that flightline. In order for us to establish where good flightlines occur, the roost wood is where we must start to look first. Mediums to large woods have several points where the pigeon will exit. This in turn means that a wood can have several different well-used flightlines that lead out on any point of the compass. Which flightline the birds decide to use on any given day, is governed by, firstly the wind strength and direction, and secondly where the best feeding fields are situated in relation to the wood. In general, when the wind is strong, say over 30mph, the birds will tend to leave the wood on the downwind side. But when a really good feed field is on offer, such as a badly drilled field or laid Barley for example, the birds are more than prepared to battle against a good headwind. I have often observed birds' leaving the roost woods into the teeth of a gale in order that they may flight to such fields! Commercially planted forests tend to be the preferred Woodpigeon roost woods. Conifers dominate in commercial woodland, and the pigeon seek out these densely planted places that offer them warmth and shelter from the wind. In my area, Larch plantations surrounded by hardwood stands hold the largest concentrations of roosting Woodpigeon. These woods are also the starting points of the best and most easily identifiable flightlines in my area. In order for us to establish where the main flightlines are in any given area, we must first of all focus our attention on the local roost woods. Arrive at the wood just before first light and park up on the downwind side, somewhere that offers a good view of the wood. Make a note of the wind strength and direction then wait for the pigeons to start moving. Watch the birds closely, make a note of the exact line they are all taking. Are they all heading for one prominent feature? Often they will leave the wood on exactly the same line flying quite some distance. Should the pigeon fly into the distance and out of sight, make a note of the last place you saw them, then watch closely for other birds to do the same. When you are quite satisfied that most of the birds are following roughly the same route, it is then a matter of driving to the nearest point where you last saw the pigeon disappearing into the distance. Park up again and watch what route the birds are taking from this new observation point. In no time at all you will quickly build up a picture of the flightline used from that wood, on that day, with the given wind direction. Obviously, several trips to the wood are required to establish the flightlines on differing types of wind in order to build up a full and accurate picture. Also, should you carry out this process you will very quickly find where the birds want to feed on that day, and ultimately the best fields to shoot over. Recently Iain and I took on some new land to operate on. Land that we were unfamiliar with. We spent four days conducting extensive reconaisance in exactly the same way as explained. This extensive reconaisance resulted in several really good shooting days, having established from the outset, all the flightlines from a large wood nearby. This new land is shot over by other pigeon shooters, but our selected hide sites, which were set up directly under these flightlines, had never been previously used. While reconnoitring flightlines, you will often observe the birds setting out along a well used line, flying for quite some distance, then dropping off the line to alight in the same place every time. I call these places DROP-OFF POINTS. Normally, the first drop-off points are within a mile of the roost wood. The woodpigeon fly to these places in order to carry out their own reconaisance. When the birds are using drop-off points, in general they are not sure where the best feed is for that day. Maybe, the day previous saw them going back to roost feeling hungry, the field of drilling where they followed the line to yesterday, was already picked over, and only a few grains of seed could be found. By flying to a drop-off point first of all, the pigeon can observe from this vantagepoint where other woodpigeon in that area are going out to feed. It is then a matter for them to join this line and follow it to its source. Drop-off points explain why several different lines can turn up on a field when we are out shooting. You will no doubt recall during those elusive red-letter days, that the line to your field changed during the afternoon. What happened in effect, was that birds had congregated in various drop-off points along different flightlines during the morning, had then spotted a line of birds going out into the distance and joined in to follow it. This had led the pigeon to your selected field giving you the chance to shoot at fresh birds during the afternoon. When this scenario occurs shooting a good bag is always on the cards. Several drop-off points can be found along the same main flightline. Make a careful note of these places for they can produce some of they very best sport, especially on those slow days. Recently, I called in to see a retired headkeeper who is an old friend. He lives alongside a very good roost wood. I asked him if he had spotted any pigeon movement over the previous few days, (local knowledge is always the best) we went to the front of his house where he pointed out in the distance a couple of old dead trees. He informed us that that those few dead trees used to be a small spinney years ago, and that it was and still is one of the best places to shoot pigeon in the area. This man was born in that house and has lived there for over 65 years. The interesting fact was that I had previously spotted this drop-off point where every pigeon leaving the wood on the southern side flew. Woodpigeon have been using that same place for over 65 years and probably more. Such is the importance of finding these very productive places. Often we will be out and about on our patch looking for feeding woodpigeon. The only problem being that we haven't got any really good fields that have hundreds of birds flocking on to them. To a certain extent, we are at a loss where we ought to set up, and if we do not find any pigeon soon, we will call it a day and get off home. Believe you me, the woodpigeon is in exactly the same boat for it can't find any really good fields in that area either. Look no further than those well used drop-off points. Armed with a set of lofting poles set up under the most used trees and enjoy, what is for me the cream of sporting shooting, the chance of a few shots at what are in effect, high driven woodpigeon. Bags will be modest, but every bird that is shot can be remembered. Not every day out after the birds will result in big bags being shot. Enjoy the sport for what it really is, the chance of shooting at a truly wild quarry, and be satisfied with your modest bag knowing full well that your field craft and skill has outwitted the most sporting of all birds. THE WOODPIGEON

FACTORS GOVERNING WOODPIGEON BEHAVIOR DURING THE WINTER MONTHS BY GARY WILSON PROFESSIONAL WOODPIGEON SHOOTING GUIDE A few years ago while conducting reconnaissance before a days shoot over Winter Rape, I glassed through the binoculars a rare all white woodpigeon. The white woodie was feeding in amongst a large flock of other woodpigeon and it stood out like a sore thumb. Over several weeks, I tracked the movements of the white pigeon being able to spot it instantly. I learnt a great deal from the movements of that bird and was quite sad when it disappeared never to be seen again. What was instantly apparent to me was although I was seeing large flocks of woodpigeon on the same fields daily, the white woodpigeon turned up anywhere, rarely was it seen on the same field on consecutive days. It was however spotted in what I call the same block of land nearly every day. Tracking the movements of the white woodpigeon over several weeks formulated a picture to me of the habits of pigeon during the winter months and I learnt some very important lessons in improving my chances of shooting a decent bag especially over Winter Rape. A large commercial wood nearby has an estimated winter population of 5,000 woodpigeon. The wood is not shot and the birds flight to and from it daily with confidence. Several factors govern the daily movements of these resident birds. During the short daylight hours of winter, the woodpigeon is on the move at first light. The main thing on their minds is where to get their stomach full for the day. A freezing night at roost has them feeling very hungry and keen to get on the wing. The flocks will leave the wood on mass flighting directly down the wind. This offers them the least effort from flying in which to obtain food for the day. The first birds to make their move will determine in general where the rest will follow. A classic case of follow the leader. In addition, these first birds will have in their own minds where they are going to feed and this explains why woodpigeon do not turn up as expected on fields where they were seen the day before. One of the main reasons for this is the amount of food available to them (in my area they have the choice of literally hundreds of rape fields) Making detailed notes of these early morning movements will pay the pigeon shooter dividends, for example Strong northerly wind = pigeon leave the wood on the southern side and feed on fields A, B, and C Westerly wind = pigeon leave the wood on the eastern side and feed on fields D, E, and F Your notes will be the key to your future success and these notes will stand true year after year even though the Rape fields change position slightly every year. Another very useful aid to the aspiring pigeon shooter is the Barometer. During open weather, pigeons tend to be lazy and fickle in their feeding habits. A sharp fall in the barometer (which the woodpigeon has detected along time before we have) will see the birds feeding with a sense of urgency, in effect storing up energy prior to bad weather and non favourable feeding conditions. Alternatively, a break in the weather after a prolonged bad spell (Barometer rises sharply) will also see the woodpigeon out in force replenishing depleted energy levels after a period of poor feeding conditions. Take note of the Barometer readings they will give you an accurate picture of the best times to look for feeding woodpigeon and also the best days to have a go at them. Large decoy patterns should certainly be used during the winter months when shooting over rape. The birds are very used to seeing large flocks in tightly packed areas. A pattern of 100 decoys would not be too many. Large decoy patterns instil confidence and in turn signal to the newcomer to the pattern that this is a good feed area. Remember to keep the killing area clear. GET YOUR DECOYS NOTICED Dead birds should be mounted on cradles a few inches above the rape. The same with plastics, use the pegs and get the decoys well above the crop. A few floaters at the head of the pattern will add contrast to the overall picture and help to get the pattern seen. Remember, during the winter decoying time is limited. If the day is not going according to plan, then move to another location. Be flexible, when in doubt consult your notes. The woodpigeon is a creature of habit and provided you have done the correct groundwork success can just about be certain and blank days will be rare.

I WROTE THIS MAGAZINE ARTICLE SEVERAL YEARS AGO, HAVING RE-READ IT TODAY, EVERYTHING I WROTE THEN STILL BEARS TRUE. I THOUGHT THAT IT WOULD BE A GREAT HELP TO THOSE OF YOU THAT STRUGGLE TO MAKE A DECENT BAG IN WHAT IS THE MOST DIFFICULT TIME OF YEAR.... GOOD SHOOTING TO YOU ALL... GARY... . 'The Woodpigeon shooting specialists' SHOOTING A DECENT BAG OF WOODPIGEON OVER WINTER RAPE By Gary Wilson, Professional Woodpigeon Shooting Guide How many times have you heard the story -? 'There were thousands on the field when I got there, I got set up, shot 2 and never saw another Woodie all day', or "Hello, is that the Woodpigeon shooter? This is Farmer Brown. My Rape field on Back Lane is blue over with pigeons. Can you get down there and sort them out?" Before rushing onto the field and it turning out like scenario number 1, let us weigh the job up first before setting foot on the field. Remember, any time spent conducting reconnaissance is never wasted, and this forms the basis of all pigeon shooting. Other factors will govern the success of a days shoot over Winter Rape. 1. Wind It is a fact that a windy day shooting over any crop will be more productive than a still day. The reason behind this is Woodpigeon are far more likely to be on the wing on a windy day. A windy day gives the pigeon more positive flight lines that can be easily identified. It also has the tendency to break up large flocks of Woodies that occur during the winter months, enabling the shooter to take shots at smaller bunches coming into the decoys. 2. Time of Day Two schools of thought arise from this factor. Firstly to be set up on the field at first light waiting for the pigeon to arrive. Secondly, walking the pigeon off the field after they have had their first feed, setting up and waiting for them to flight back to feed again. I much prefer the second option for reasons I will explain. During the short daylight hours of winter, the Woodpigeon are on the move at first light. A trip to you local roost wood at dawn will certainly confirm this for you. If you had found the pigeon feeding on a Rape field the day before, and set up the next day at sunrise, you will no doubt have hundreds of pigeon arrive at your field all at the same time. These would drop straight into the decoys, a few shots at these large flocks will send them scattering far and wide, and more often than not over the boundary to alight on another Rape field where you haven't got permission to shoot! This however can change on a windy day. Wind does break the flocks up and it can extend the flight from the roost woods during the morning. Far better to turn up at the field about 9:00am during the winter, walk the pigeon off and set up as close as possible to the flight line where it enters the field. Because the pigeon have already had a feed, they will fly off to rest and digest the contents of their stomachs before flighting back to feed again. This in effect extends the length of the flight, allowing the decoy shooter more shots at smaller feeding parties. To look at the 'Time of Day' factor more closely, during the winter months the pigeon have approximately 7 hours of feeding time. Take off an hour or so of flighting to and from the roost woods, and that leaves us about 6 hours of shooting in which to put together a decent bag. Pigeon feed then rest three times a day during winter. Rape is highly digestible and literally goes straight through the birds. It takes approximately half an hour for a pigeon to fill up on Rape, and then it will sit and digest for about an hour before feeding again. Let us look at a typical day, taking into account the daylight feeding hours: - 08:30 Pigeon arrive at the Rape field and start to feed. 09:00 Pigeon fly off (or sit on the field) to rest and digest. 10:00 Pigeon flights back to the field and start feed number 2. 10:30 Rest and digest. 11:30 Pigeon flight back to field and commence feed number 3. Now, feed number 3 takes much longer, as the Woodpigeon crams its crop full of Rape to last it through the night. This feed takes up to 1 hour. The time is now 12:30, and our pigeon has fed for the day. He is quite content to sit around, resting and digesting, and maybe having another feed before flying off for the roost woods at approximately 3:00pm. Bearing all that in mind, the peak time for Rape shooting is during mid-morning, up to 12:00 noon. By 2:00pm, pigeons on rape have finished feeding for the day. Shooting large bags over Rape is not common, it does happen now and again but is definitely not the norm. The clever pigeon shooter will be highly mobile, with light portable gear. During the morning before setting up on his chosen field, he will have walked another field also. He sets up on field number 1, and shoots the flight from about 09:30 to 11:30, and with luck will kill 20 to 30 birds. As soon as the flight dries up, he will move quickly to field number 2, walk the pigeons off again, set up and shoot another flight from about 11:30 to 1:30, killing another 20 to 30 Woodies. For his efforts, he will have made a very good bag of between 40 and 60 Woodpigeon, which for shooting over Rape is a Red Letter Day. He will have left the house at 8:30am, and be back indoors by 2:30pm. More hours spent than this will in general have been non productive. Try to stick to these times during your next outing on Winter Rape, and try the two-field option and be highly mobile. Other factors govern pigeon behaviour, especially during the winter. We will look at these more closely next time.

COUNT ME IN.... ENDLESS HOURS OF INFORMATIVE READING FOR A FIVER.... ALL THE BEST... GARY...