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celtic invader

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Everything posted by celtic invader

  1. Yup, same as mine - not bad value if they last. The foam ones I have already are about 15yrs old now and apart from needing a paint job they are still in one piece. Only problem being they are more like silhouettes than those above which are proper full bodied.
  2. Hi Guys - just read your posts and my heart goes out to you. Surely there must be enough local lads to guide any visiting shooters that wish to shoot geese in Orkney. Who is allowing outsiders to 'Guide' parties without control and how can geese be buried without the landowners knowledge. Obviously some sort of regulation or accepted shooting practice must be established by Orkney residents otherwise you will get a continuous flood of mainland numpty's coming over causing havoc. The next thing will be the parties of non UK residents that have a reputation for shooting anything that moves. They have already ruined some goose roosts in Scotland by wading out onto the roost to shoot at geese on the water and this is in an area that is fairly well monitored so imagine what could happen in Orkney. You have a wonderful opportunity to take control of a valuable resource, that if properly managed can produce revenue for the Islands inhabitants for many many years and at the same time keeping the numbers of breeding geese to an acceptable level. Anyone shooting geese in Orkney, or anywhere else for that matter should be licensed and their licence should reflect their position, either visiting or local and this distinction should also govern the number of geese they are allowed to take. Landowners could be given the responsibility to control this and earn revenue as a result. All licences could carry information about the number allowed and the landowner fills in the bag number at the end of each flight. This way anyone caught with excess geese can be prosecuted which can bring in more revenue. Sorry I'm going on a bit but if the Orkney Islanders/landowners have a problem with too many geese or too many shooters, they have an ideal opportunity to do something about it, with the help of the authorities, and make additional revenue for the Islands.
  3. Used them for the past 18 years with generally good results. Mix them up with a few rags and full bodies to create a larger pattern. I hang mine from a small hole cut in the back area and suspended on a 'L' shaped wire slid into a thin ally pole which is staked vertically. (The bit that fixes to the sil has a bend at the tip to keep it in place) The sil decoy then bob's around the stake in a slight breeze creating movement (no good in strong winds so if windy push the stake in deeper so the sil can’t spin around otherwise they will look like miniature merry-go-rounds) The ally pole is hollow and about 6mm in diameter and 500 mm long, spray painted corn stubble colour to blend in with the field. Probably put out about 30 to 40 to fill the spread. Only real danger is what you paint them with as they are flat sided they will reflect the sun no matter what matt paint you use, especially when they are wet. Have a look at the foamies on fleabay, lighter, full bodied, ready painted and realistic. (But not as much fun as making your own)
  4. Just bought a doz to try out on the next trip north. Normally use Foam type, a few shells, loads of silhouettes and rags to provide movement, so these should fit right in. Imported from China at a cost of about £4 each (minimum 500) plus transportation costs. Rather than use the leg that comes with them I intend to spike them in the ground through the beak (Into the head and up the neck) with 12" of 16g wire so that they move and bob a bit more naturally. The head and neck needs to be filled with expanding foam to add more rigidity and strength and they could also do with a better paint job (I'll do that next year), but as they are so light they should work OK. If anyone has a problem with them getting back to the right shape after transportation or storage, just insert a balloon in the belly hole and blow it up. This puts them back into the right shape.
  5. Hi is the recoil pad still for sale.
  6. Good sence talked by Coney Basher, who obviously knows what he is talking about.
  7. Hi I'm referbishing an old Webly & Scott 700 and need a few action screws for the base plate. If you have any you do not want please pm me. Thanks for looking. Celtic Invader.
  8. That should be right now. (Not really IT minded)
  9. Sorry something went wrong with the upload - I'll try again.
  10. Sorry codling99, I have not kept many pictures of the mounts I have done over the years and most of them I have given away. However I have found a few that might be of interest to some. For those who are really interested the following sequence is of the build up. This is a much younger animal Just as an asside all of the above, with the exception of the Roe Buck and the Fox, died of natural causes or were killed on the roads.
  11. I mean no offence coding99 but honestly - the pheasant look like they are walking back home after a very long night on the town, the hares have been frightened to death and the corgis have been run over by a tractor. Perhaps its the photographs or just the angles that the pictures have been taken but having over 35 years experience of practical taxidermy and mounted everything from zebra finches to north American brown bears (and most things in between), I can only provide a personal opinion - which in the eyes of the many - is just that. If you like em - buy em. As for me, I prefer my mounts to be a little more lifelike, as I said previously the white rabbit and the polecat are excellent representations of the live animal - a true mark of the professional.
  12. If all that fails - get him a Boss single trigger, he'll love you forever. :unsure:
  13. The white rabbit and the polecat are excellent, however the pheasant and hares are as realistic as the corgi's (sorry foxes) :unsure:
  14. I bought the girlfriend a 20b side by side for an engagement present. We have now been married for 37 years and in that time she graduated from a 20 to a 12, shot sporting clays for Wales, has shot every rifle I have from a .22 to the .308 and now shoots a double 16 for all driven game. When asked why a 20b and not an engagement ring, I said we will see if you can shoot first. Incidentally, she has also coached all four of our children to a very respectable standard of competence at clays. Moral of the story Harnser - be careful for what you wish as it just might come true.
  15. Sure you can, in fact I borrowed from a friend of mine who is 93 and it was he that took the pictures. Must say it does work a treat.
  16. Being an avid builder of rifle ammunition I tend to agree that the projectile should be called a missile and not a head, however how many times do you hear the question "What Heads are you using" never "What Missiles are you using" nevertheless "She gives good Missile" does not have the same meaning.
  17. Its generally the lighter load that causes the jamming problem. Hatsan have changed the spring type in recent models to allow a greater range of carts and this problem was generally found in 3.5" guns trying to cycle the lighter loads. Not so common in 3" models. If you think about it a - dare I say it, economically produced weapon, which is specifically made to cycle 3.5" heavy loads has to have a fairly resistant spring return mechanism, by definition. If you try to cycle 2.5" 28g loads there may not be sufficient pressure to operate the mechanism therefore jamming may occur. Its all about the physics and nothing to do with the fact that the Datsun – oops! sorry Hatsan, is made to a price and not to a performance specification. T'
  18. Definitely, a British Army issue Jack Knife. Still available in this and the three or four types since. Value = not allot apart from maybe sentimental value. T'
  19. ZOS make scopes for many different distributors in addition to marketing themselves under the ZOS brand. Unfortunately, they all suffer from the same problems. Occasionally you may get one that will perform but by all the reports, I have read the good ones come along very rarely. The main problems are holding zero - they tend to float about, or they will not adjust at all. The glass is poor and as fister said they will not pass the box test. Box Test - is simply a test to confirm that the adjustment in windage and elevation is repeatable. i.e. from a shot at the bull at zero move 2" left and 2" up for the second shot (do this by adjusting the windage and elevation by the correct amounts according to the distance over which you are shooting e.g. if your scope adjusts .25 of an inch over 100 yds then to move your shot placement 2" you need to dial in 8 clicks). The third shot is taken after you move 4" right (16 cliks), the 4th shot after moving 4"down and the 5th shot after you move 4"left. You then repeat with another shot after 4" up 4" right 4" down and 4" left. Do this again a third time followed by 2" up and 2" right, then put two more shots at the same place. (Obviously all shots have the same point of aim POI - at the bull) If your scope has accurate adjustment and repeatability, your target will end up shot as a box with three shots in each corner and three in the middle. The box will have 4" sides with the 5 three round groups. If it does not and you are a competent shot, then your scope has failed the basic but all-important adjustment and repeatability test or BOX TEST. I have a 10 to 40 X 50 illuminated mil dot side adjustable scope by Mark Precision Optics of Australia - a wonderful looking piece of kit that was recommended to me for a .308 Target rifle. Having zero'd the scope 2" high at 100 yds I then proceded to place 10 rounds in a one inch group - brilliant I thought, till I tried the BOX test and it all went to rat ****. Result - would not adjust at all and then lost zero. Found out from Australia that it was the biggest load of cr*p made by ZOS of China and incidentally although they state that ZOS make scopes for the Chinese Army - and I do not dispute this well known fact - it is very unlikely that you would be able to acquire anything that equals the very poor military standard issue models, which are far superior than those obtained from the likes of fleabay. If its got Japanese lenses and not put together in China you stand a chance of getting an acceptable starter level scope - it will cost you upwards of £150 but will be good value for money and may be used on certain centrefires. Of course you can pay 10 times this amount and get much better optics and guaranteed repeatable adjustments, either by having the real thing or the backup service and guarantee that will ensure you will have the real thing. Unfortunately there are allot more people that cannot afford this type of scope than can, therefore use your hard earned cash wisely and save your pennies until you can afford to buy a new Jap job or better still a good second hand German or Austrian glass.
  20. I was bitten by an adder when I was 15 and can assure you its not funny. Good advice.
  21. Continued shaking of the head will sometimes keep the wound open no matter what you do regarding bandages. Therefore, ensure that there is also no ear mite infestation, as every time the dog shakes his head with the irritation the wound will also be kept from healing. Had this with a Visla many years ago and a small nick on the tip of the ear failed to heal no matter what I did. Finally got the vet to give him a proper ear inspection and as a result of giving him the ear mite drops, the ear healed in 3 days. I now regularly dose for ear mites as a matter of course.
  22. I use one of these And this is what it does
  23. G96 Gun Blue Creme. £5 to £6 on Fleabay - follow the instructions on the jar. Easy to use, requires no heat or special skills - will provide a deep lasting blue providing:- 1 You ensure that all metal parts are cleaned and degreased thoroughly. 2 You follow the instructions to the letter. 3 You wear rubber gloves to prevent hand contamination during the bluing process. I have blued parts of barrels, whole barrels, bits of guns and the full action and barrels. Will do all the bluing you require without streaking and will provide an even coating. The final coat should be put on with very fine wire wool and rubbed hard to get that extra deep lustre. Finally wash off any surplus creme with warm water and lightly oil - job done. Tip - like all finishing jobs, the art is in the preparation not the application. 6 P’s = Proper Planning Prevents **** Poor Performance. T'
  24. celtic invader


    Started to show in the Bristol Channel off the Cardiff coast. A few caught off the Gower around Langland and back into Swansea bay but nothing off the shore yet.
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