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timps

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About timps

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  • Birthday December 21

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  1. Teague chokes

    The CIP have done extensive testing which encompasses all makes of guns and they have to pander to the worst-case scenario regarding build quality, design and age, they then have to add a safety margin. They also accept shooting steel shot against their regulations wouldn’t necessarily damaged a gun but CIP would maintain that the risk of it being so is increased. Based on the above just because plenty on PW do it and its fine for them doesn’t mean that all makes and type of guns new and old will be ok, also depending on whose cartridges you use that could also make a difference. There is an increased risk of damage going against the regulations, as long as people are aware what the regulations are and are ok with the increased risk in ignoring them then that’s their call, but its only fair to point out the increased risks. Regarding 10 Gauge there isn't any CIP regulations regarding steel so no guidelines.
  2. Teague chokes

    According to CIP regulations Standard steel shot is ok to use through any choke although it is generally believed tighter than 1/2 blows the patterns so of no benefit. Standard steel has a maximum shot size of 3.25 mm. HP steel can only be used in steel proofed guns with the Fleur de Lys proof mark, again any choke can be used for shot up to 4 mm. Where the steel shot diameter of HP steel exceeds 4 mm BB or larger then you can only use 1/2 choke. For old lightweight game guns depending on who you ask CIP or British Proof Authorities it’s a maximum of 1/2 or a 1/4. Those are the regulations as to benefits or damage due to bulging etc that’s a whole other discussion.
  3. One for the techies

    Just to answer the physics side of it, due to inertia the amount of force (pressure) needed to accelerate 28g of wad and shot from rest to 1350 fps in let’s say 11” is massive. To accelerate from 1350 to 1375 in the remaining 21” not so massive so even if the pressure is dropping it is exerting a force and continuing to accelerating the wad and shot down the barrel just at a greatly reduced acceleration. The figure of 5 fps is a complete guestimate there are so many variables in bore diameter, burn rate etc. that no one can qualify that figure at all in every case. I have seen countless chronograph videos and reports on the net (including semi autos) indicating that longer barrels do give an average higher velocity, I don’t think the testing regime of all the videos stands up to the precision and bias that is required to categorically state it’s a fact. However, I haven’t seen any videos the other way around (I do stand to be corrected if there are) but it does tend to support the theory that the force of the pressure is still greater than the friction even up to 32” and on semi autos. Regarding chokes again I’ve seen, albeit just one, chronograph report that tighter chokes increase velocity, the principle is based on the venture effect and Bernoulli’s principle on the expanding gas behind the shot causing it to drop in pressure and increase in velocity at the choke. But any increase here would be negligible. I have seen one choke manufacturer claim his chokes regardless of constriction do increase velocity over standard chokes backed up by his own chronograph evidence, however I am EXTREMELY sceptical to say the least. Obviously, the caveat is there will be a longer barrel length and tighter choke constriction which would have a negative effect on velocity. What does this all mean to the shooter? Answer: absolutely sod all. If you shot at a crossing target (depending on its own velocity) it will have only moved less than an inch towards the intercept point between shot travelling at 1300 fps and shot travelling 1400 fps (100 fps should cover any claimed increase easily). Nothing in the world of scatter gun shooting is that accurate or consistent to worry about an inch or less at 30 yards or more. Regarding impact energy, again any difference is completely academic, a 28” gun can hit any target just as hard as a 32” can out in the filed I’ve own both at the same time and cannot tell any difference. It is like all good theories in shooting, it’s provable in the lab and by physics and formulas but it means sod all out in the field. Just my view on it anyway and yes I do work in a lab.
  4. Headphones?

    I’ve got a pair of AKG k550 Mkii they won the what hifi awards with an original price £250 Amazon still want £150 but you can pick them up for £99 from Richer sounds (I know his views on shooting but I’m easily bought). I think they are worth £99 all day long
  5. It is covered in Section 11A of the Firearms Act 1968 subsection (3) (c) (ii) “(3) The second condition is that the lender— (c)is either— (i)a person who has a right to allow others to enter the premises for the purposes of hunting animals or shooting game or vermin, or (ii)a person who is authorised in writing by a person mentioned in sub-paragraph (i) to lend the rifle or shot gun on the premises (whether generally or to persons specified in the authorisation who include the borrower).” https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1968/27/section/11A
  6. Regarding security, home office guidance for a journey which keeps the gun away from their usual secure storage you should consider. Separating and retaining possession of integral parts of the firearm, e.g. the fore-end of a shotgun, bolt of a rifle etc and utilising portable security devices, i.e. security cords etc. Regarding your friend borrowing the shotgun to use on his own land if he doesn’t have a licence then you as the lender must be a person authorised by them in writing. Sounds stupid I know because he’s with you, but to keep within the law written permission is a requirement from May 2017 and must be obtained prior to shooting, verbal permission is no longer permitted. Whether they would ever go to the trouble of doing you for your actual scenario I have no idea, but that act makes it quite clear you as the lender need written permission from the person with the shooting rights to lend a rifle or shot gun on the premises before shooting.
  7. Gun Cabinet Requirememts,

    It’s covered in the Home office guidance on the firearms act, while security is the responsibility of the certificate holder the chief officer of police must be satisfied that the applicant can be permitted to have the firearm(s)/ammunition in their possession without danger to the public safety or to the peace. Meaning the chief officer of police must be satisfied that your security is adequate to stop unauthorised persons accessing your firearms. If they are not then they are required by law to revoke or not issue your certificate. This risk assessment of your security is at the whim of the FEO and the force he works for. GMP never really bothered with the fixings in all my previous renewals but after a full review of the department they are now doing it by the home office guidance and to BS7558, the recommendations are for expanding bolts, chemical anchors or toggle bolts. BS7558 which is the British standards for gun cabinets, states the type of bolts acceptable and the plastic friction type are not acceptable. The requirement for size is :- at least 4 fixing holes to take not less than 10mm diameter fastening devices. The holes to be spaced to provide maximum binding of cabinet to structure. I know for a fact if my FEO doesn’t see 4 x M10 bolt heads or threaded bar and sees a screws he will knock it back regardless (happened to a mate) and at my last renewal he made me expose the bolt heads for inspection. A different force and FEO might not even bother, but all it takes is for one department review and next home visit you will have to change fixings or go to court to get a ruling on your security .
  8. House got broken into

    It’s covered in the Home office guidance on the firearms act, while security is the responsibility of the certificate holder the chief officer of police must be satisfied that the applicant can be permitted to have the firearm(s)/ammunition in their possession without danger to the public safety or to the peace. Meaning the chief officer of police must be satisfied that your security is adequate to stop unauthorised persons accessing your firearms. Therefore, the FEO on the chief officer of police behalf must risk assess your security by law, that bit is in the firearms act and it is also mentioned in the home office guidance. The Chief officer of police has no choice he/she is legally obliged under the firearms act to do it if they issue you a certificate. Therefore. if they feel the guns are at risk they have to revoke or not grant a certificate by law, however, the risk assessment can vary from force to force or FEO to FEO. You can certainly disagree with their findings on your security, I personally know someone who did and won based on a gun room. However, it is open to the legal interpretation of a judge as to who is right and this is the sticking point it would have to go to court for a ruling. Whilst waiting for your day in court they have to revoke your certificate by law. Bear in mind it would cost a small fortune as cost are not normally awarded in firearm’s licences cases unless the police behaved unreasonably. Unreasonably is at the discretion of the judge and even though my friend won the judge ruled it was reasonable for the police to ask the court for a ruling. Based on that, six months, while annoying is better than getting your certificate revoked if they stand firm.
  9. People are often accused of overthinking but that doesn't mean under thinking is the right answer either so asking and questioning is always important in my mind. However, on sight picture there are some definite don't (blocking the eye behind the action) but on the subject of do’s (within reason) it is personal choice. To back this up I personally know 2 shooters that have won major titles one chooses a flat hardly any rib sight picture, the other chooses to see a lot of rib, as to which is right is genuinely personal preference as they have both won titles. You could take a poll to see which is the most preferred set up and you would probably come up with the place a pound coin on the end of the rib and just see the bead on top of it as the most common picture. However, that is probably to do with it being said that often that people just blindly follow it when they first start. As a purely anecdotal statement based on nothing more than chats with shooters whose opinion I respect and my own preference I have found that people who have slight eye issues such as weak or switching eye dominance or weaker vision in one eye etc. tend to prefer to see more rib as it does seem to help with that. Those with a nice strong master eye tend to prefer to see very little rib. But as I have said it is only anecdotal and I don’t have any scientific evidence to back this up. Seeing as no one can see it through your eyes it does become personal preference, or if I was helping someone to shoot and they were lifting their head on certain targets I would suggest try seeing a little more rib to help but other than that it is personal. Regarding lead and where the clay should be there are so many variables no one can give you an answer over the internet. If you shoot slow and methodical with maintained lead then you will see more lead on distant targets than someone with a quick swing through pull away style of shooting. This also effects the perception of clay above the gun if the target is dropping (which it will be due to gravity unless it’s a teal like target) using either pull away or swing through means you have to insert the gun under the clay to factor in any drop. How much the clay is dropping to where the break point is cannot be explained from afar. Also, some people see lead, some feel lead (speed of swing), some also see lead at the barrel and some see it as an extrapolation of the barrel near the clay. I am from a scientific background so like you I like to know answers as well, there are answers out there for you but people need to see what you are doing to see what the answers are due to the many variables involved with shooting styles.
  10. Chokes Wanted

    Ive got a pair of flush fitting Teague 3/8 if thats any use
  11. Bailiffs & guns ,

    Regarding securely and where the keys are kept:- For being prosecuted under the firearms act it doesn't matter what the licence holder thinks or even the police it's down solely to the judge on the day. Your guess is as good as mine on how they would see it. For licence revocation again it doesn't matter what the licence holder thinks but it's solely down to the police as they don't have to ask a judges opinion at all. If they think the drawer is not good enough bye bye licence. To get your licence back is solely the opinion of a judge again, but that's going to cost you a pretty penny and costs are not awarded unless the police have acted unreasonable. The bar is set very high for unreasonable, I know of two successful wins against revocation but no costs awarded. If your cabinet is forced open it is deemed you have done your job under the act regardless of how quick the thief did it. If your cabinet is opened with a key questions are going to be asked. Trying to prove it took the thief 20 mins instead of 5 to find them is going to be a tall order. For a prosecution you would probably convince a judge and also the police would have to prove its case that the keys were easily found. However for revocation the chief officer of police doesn't need proof just that he/she is not satisfied you took reasonable care. This is why revocations are a lot more common than prosecutions.
  12. It’s covered in the Home office guidance on the firearms act, while security is the responsibility of the certificate holder the chief officer of police must be satisfied that the applicant can be permitted to have the firearm(s)/ammunition in their possession without danger to the public safety or to the peace. Meaning the chief officer of police must be satisfied that your security is adequate to stop unauthorised persons accessing your firearms. It then goes on to say a risk-based assessment may indicate the need for another interview with the applicant or further enquiries about security arrangements. These enquiries may be done over the telephone or by email rather than by home visit, in accordance with the level of the risk assessment. Simply put if you live in a low crime area with few guns a phone call would suffice. An increase in crime or you live in a higher crime area expect a visit to make sure the chief officer of police is happy that your security is up to scratch. Some may take the ultra-safe view that risk assessment can only be done by viewing the security arrangements in person regardless of any other factors. However, make no mistake the FEO on the chief officer of police behalf must risk assess your security by law, that bit is in the firearms act, the Chief officer of police has no choice he/she is legally obliged to do it if they issue you a certificate. They get in trouble not you if they don’t do this. If they feel a phone call should suffice so be it, but if they also feel a home visit is needed then again so be. You might disagree with their findings on your security, that’s open to interpretation of a judge as to who is right. However, the fact they have to carry out a risk assessment including security is not open to interpretation and they can carry that bit out by a home visit every time if they feel it’s necessary.
  13. shop selling my gun

    Any gun left with an RFD will have been logged on their register the moment it's left with them. However it is not classed as a permanent transfer if it's sale or return. For return back to owner they dont have to inform the police just keep a record of it coming in then going back out to you on the their register, no transfer. They keep a record of this for 5 years but do not inform the police, exactly the same as if it went for repair or storage. If it sells that's classed as transfer now they have to inform the police of change of ownership. As it's already entered on their register they can legally do this. If the gun sells there's no issue if you have already told the police it's transferred, however, if you want the gun returned that's when the trouble starts. You have informed the police the gun has gone to the RFD but RFD won't inform the police it's gone back to you. Also unless you tell the RFD what you have done they won't fill out your licence correctly. For section 1 you have to send your license back to have the gun removed so the RFD can put it back on again. For shotguns the RFD has to fill out your certificate with the guns details again. As I have said previously the home office guidance is quite clear if you intend to get the gun back if it doesn't sell. However if you don't want the gun back it's not sale or return so informing the police the moment it's gone to the RFD is ok. Whatever you do if you have informed the police then tell the RFD so they can do the correct paperwork if you wish to get the gun back.
  14. shop selling my gun

    You have 7 days to notify the police of the transaction to the third party who bought the gun. Once the gun is sold and possession is taken by the third party and not before is the date the 7 days start from. The auction house informs you of the sale, you inform the police it's gone to the auction house, as long as you all do that within 7 days of the transaction no one has committed an offence. It doesn't matter what order you inform the police. If your letter to the police arrives last and the third party or auction house first it doesn't matter as long as they all arrive within 7 days of the actual transfer. There is no requirement in the firearms act to notify the police if the gun is at an RFD or auction house (2nd party) and no transfer has taken place. If the gun has not been sold and taken into possession by a third party and you intend sale or return then no transfer has ever taken place. What you can't do is what you did by transferring the gun to the auction house and not sending your license in for variation to get it back. As you found out to your cost. The guidelines are quite clear.
  15. shop selling my gun

    You notified them of the transfer to the auction even though it wasn't sold, that’s where the problem started. Once you notify them they assume it’s a transferred to a new owner and remove it from your certificate at their end. The guidance states ” As the transferor may not know the name of the ultimate transferee, it is sufficient for the transferor only to notify the police of disposal to the dealer or auctioneer. “ Hence as soon as you informed them it was considered transferred and not sale or return. Seeing as it is not necessary to send in your certificate to be altered for such notifications unless you wish to apply for the authority to replace the firearm you have transferred all was ok and you were none the wiser. Once you informed them you had got it back that’s where your problems arise, even though it’s the same gun you need to apply for a variation to put it back on just as if you wanted to replace it with a different one. If you hadn’t informed them of the transfer to the auction in the first place all would have been above board and within the law. If the auction house had known that you had informed your constabulary of the transfer they wouldn't have given the gun back without the variation in place. They ultimately were treating it as sale or return you were treating it as transfer as was your constabulary hence the trip to head quarters to sort it out.
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