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Paddy Galore!

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About Paddy Galore!

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  • Birthday 03/08/2010

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    norfolkshire

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  1. it's all hot air anyway. even if they got into No 10, once they realise their mistake it'll all be swept under the carpet and conveniently forgotten. much like all the other election promises made by just about every other politician ever
  2. I was thinking that, or the lay shaft has stripped a gear, depends how the power is transferred from crank to gear box, i'd be pulling that apart to have a looksee
  3. something I notice more on a bike, I find myself looking further down the road for potential idiots but they're everywhere! Now I just assume that everyone else on the road is a ***** bag out for the kill and take action accordingly
  4. the comfiest pair of work boots I've ever owned were a cheap pair of dealer/Chelsea boot from screwfix, tried sthil, and a couple of pairs of timberlands but these beat them hands down
  5. I've always ran on stock airbox, the air flow through a clean filter in no way impairs performance even when tuning, I had a kz1000j tuned to stage 3 , that's cams and carbs, and it ran well still with the standard filter, hp was up by 50%, to 120hp at the back wheel, it did involve removing the us spec head with the gas recirculation gubbins, changed the wheels to 17"rims the chain pitch, sprockets and gearing were changed to suit, we got 150mph out of her on the rolling road
  6. ive got a trade account at howdens and benchmarx if you need any help ditchman, they deliver too
  7. thought you'd taken up spear fishing ditchie
  8. got a few watches, nothing very expensive, the dearest is a bullova precisionist which was about 500 quid, my favourite is a tissot with a large smoked face and big numbers so my poor old eyes can see the time, cost me all of 295 poonds, it's got sapphire glass and a heavy s/s bracelet so pretty strong and durable which will do just nicely.
  9. hi harry, they're cheap enough to replace, just find a glazing firm local to you, if you don't want to do the work yourself then they can recommend someone too. if you do want to do it yourself then for timber framed windows measure the sash rebate to the outer edge of the beading, then take off 6mm or 1/4" this will give you your tolerance, it's different for plastic windows. do you have a glass measurer to get the thickness of the sealed unit? if not then measure the thickness of the sash overall, then measure the depth from the frame to the glass each side and subtract from the o/a measurement, it doesn't matter if you're a couple of mm out on a timber window as the beads are moveable, just a hint, the dgu thickness is usually an even number. if it's a side hung opening window then you'll need to heel and toe the dgu, that means packing the dgu bottom hinge corner to diagonally opposite top corner to keep the frame square.
  10. dude, it's the colour of the tin not the paint the red tin is shellac based, yellow is oil based, blue is water based and useless
  11. osmosis, silk and eggshell paints are micro porous and absorb some of the moisture, as the fresh paint film gets a skin forming the trapped moisture goes back through the existing paint to the wall and then forms a blister, over worked plaster, oil and silicon based sprays and furniture polish are the main causes which basically comes down to bad prep or sabotage, and yes, red Zinsser is the dogs danglies for forming a barrier coat but it's overly expensive for a simple thing like blistering paint. a simple barrier coat of the cheapest oil based primer or undercoat thinned out will do the job just as well. hi dekers, you have several options, you could re plaster, slurry coat with easyfill, or use lining paper, these will introduce more moisture to your wall so you will still need to do the prep with a barrier coat. or use a barrier coat of oil based paint and fill the pock marks, how much you spend is up to you, I can recommend Zinsser in the yellow tin which is oil based, or polycell stain block which is also oil based. I can also recommend the cheapest, nastiest, oil based undercoat or primer you can find, all the above paints will take a while to dry thoroughly but will give you a decent base to start again. cheers, gram
  12. the underlying layers of paint are usually very thick when this happens, when you put a fresh coat on it's putting moisture into the existing paint, where the existing paint hasn't adhered to the wall surface properly it causes a blister, this usually happens with eggshell or silk finishes. this will carry on happening to the affected area. I've treated walls with oil based undercoat before and it's helped as it forms a barrier stopping moisture ingress through the paint layers, you need to let the wall dry out completely, pop and scrape back the blisters, re treat the pock marks with the oil based paint, then fill and rub down, then oil based undercoat, then final emulsion, you don't need the red Zinsser, it stinks to high heaven and is very expensive, if you or any of the household have breathing problems then don't go near the stuff, you could try the yellow Zinsser, it's oil based and is a bit easier on the lungs, contrary to what's been mentioned earlier you can put emulsion over undercoat, it's an old trick of the trade for covering and sealing stains. atb paddy
  13. never really liked them much, but you carry on chap
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