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demonwolf444

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About demonwolf444

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  • Birthday 08/06/1995

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  1. Woodward No.3638

    What a result! restoring a gun from a box of parts is a real challenge, i cant wait to see the finished work. Glad you found a home where the gun will be cherished it was a joy to work on.
  2. Side by Side Club

    Im in!
  3. Screwdrivers

    There are a lot of variations on gun screws, You tend to find that mass produced guns have a slightly wider parallel sided slot with parallel sides to the nail heads which fit to a flat bottomed countersunk hole in the corresponding metalwork. For such screws you need a turnscrew with entirely parallel blade and edges to fit the screw. Those such as offered by Grace USA will fit many of the modern produced guns. Because of the difficulty in grinding the sort of tips on those grace USA turnscrews ( if you are not familiar they are basically like a normal slotted screw driver where the last 1/8th of an inch is truly parallel) then to adapt normal drivers to the job the only way is to hollow grind them, so that the last bit of the turnscrew is parallel you have to be carefull not to remove the temper, or you will find that they will bend or crack. On mass produced guns you tend to find that the slots are uniform and more like the slots of a conventional slotted screw. ( Image below of the grace USA turnscrews ) ON artisan produced stuff the story is a bit different, the slots vary wildly in depth, width, profile, and they are often not truly parallel as in the image above, this image taken in my workshop shows that this slot has a slight taper, the turnscrew must be found or ground to fit. The blade is the full width of the slot, full depth and in contact at both sides of the slot. The corners of the tip of the turnscrew have been knocked off to stop the turnscrew galling the metalwork of the countersink. I make up turnscrews for the workshop from time to time, i have a few blades which fit in to a traditional bit and brace which help give extra leverage on stubborn screws, welding a nut to the shank of a turnscrew below the handle is also sometimes helpfull, it allows you to keep downwards pressure on the screw while using a spanner for additional leverage, this technique is best reserved over a week of warming and cooling and applying a penetrating oil, eventually even the most siezed screws will back out, with no damage to the slot as long as one is careful. I tend to find that if it doesn't come out after ten days of encouragement the head of the screw will probably split or fracture, in which case you have the horrible job of jigging whatever it is up and drilling down the shank without damaging surrounding wood or metal. Below is a set of turnscrews i made up a while ago and are in daily use. The handles are walnut off cuts from stock work the blades are made from landrover leaf spring - Only one fitted in the picture. I use a milenicut file to remove all the rust and scale from the leaf spring once the blade shape is cut out. the tip is marked out and filed down and left massively oversize, the turnscrews have different widths, when something new turns up another "blank turnscrew" is picked up from my box, the one with a tip near the right size selected, and ground down to fit a particular screw. If anyone would like me to make them any turnscrews get in touch best supplied over size for you to fit to your screws as needed. To me they are functional tools but when im putting time into turning and filing and grinding, and since i have to look at them on my workbench, its nice if they can be a bit pretty!
  4. Holts Sealed Bid Auction

    Wish i had seen this thread earlier, paying the extortionate postage now.
  5. Ten bore sxs Hammer barrel wall measurements

    Muncher - Nobody can tell you i'm afraid! When guns are made there is no minimum wall thickness. Often the barrels of guns were filed down in order to meet the customers desired weight of the complete gun. There are no stamps or markings that can tell us what the wall thickness was when made. With regards wall thickness there are a couple of things you should be aware of. the "minimum wall thickness" is considered to be 20 thou, that being said that doesnt mean a gun with thinner barrels is inherently unsafe, guns have passed proof with barrels far thinner from new, thinner barrels really just mean they are more likely to dent or be damaged in the field. While running your barrels in the wall thickness gauge you should look for areas where the wall thickness dramatically changes, perhaps dropping from 21 thou to 17 thou un evenly around the tube. While this is not necessarily something to be concerned about its probably a sign that a dent has been removed, this is worth knowing because now the barrels are thinner it might be more likely to damage again and less forgiving or even impossible to repair. A gun with healthy barrels should have reasonably even wall thicknesses around the circumference of the tube, getting thinner towards the muzzle and then a bit thicker again at the choke. That being said if you are going to be using heavy non toxic loads in, a gun with good stout thick barrels might be considered more usable and a better investment than one that's been honed and repaired after years in the field. Proof status is more important. Wall thickness and proof status are just little numbers which give us some understanding of the life of a set of barrels but they cant promise us that barrel A is safe and barrel B is not. The difference with Proof over wall thickness is that in the UK proof status is enshrined in law. It is illegal to sell a gun out of proof, the buyer should be equipped to make sure that he can check a gun for himself, i have had some well known dealers sell me guns that were out of proof. They seemed to be of an opinion that because they were making very little profit on the gun that that didn't really constitute selling the gun. On the barrels the proof marks relate to the size of the bore 9 inches from the breech at the time it was proofed. In general the rules of proof allow this size to increase 10thou before the gun is considered out of proof. You need to be able to read and understand the proof marks, see what the original gauge was then use a shotgun bore micrometer to work out how comfortably in proof it is. ( or not )
  6. Making a Claim

    Gordon this is a great shame, as someone else noted; the gun survived all these years only to be broken through poor packaging. Sadly you might end up the loser in this case if auctions are exempt. I know your own skills are more than up to the task but if you cant get into your workshop, I'm sure I can sort it out for you, you have my details if you need me!
  7. No Firearms/shotguns to be stored at home?

    Lets hope people get involved with the democratic process. Fire off some emails to your MP's, Basc will do whatever basc will do but everyone should be doing their best to represent the community
  8. Finally got a car I like.

    Apologies - Been really stuck into some work but the next installment will come soon!
  9. Finally got a car I like.

    Apologies guys i know my posts can be a bit marmite - My close friends appreciate one of my skills is turning a pretty mundane one line story into a an hour long yarn, some people think I'm an idiot and other people get me. As a side writing is something i have always been interested in i read widely and have always been interested in reading, but i don't know exactly what it is i would write about! Anyway i wanted to do a post and i thought here might be a good place to post it up! A BTEC car crash, this might be considered a slightly offensive term, but a BTEC car crash is describing a crash that was particularly unexciting, uneventful and unimpressive Well that would be telling; but since you are asking, I paid 2950 pounds. I quite agree its a complete rip off. But you would be hard pressed to find really any defender - even one in poor but drive - able condition for significantly more or less. That being said this is probably a very bold statement considering how rash i was in buying the vehicle. Notice: To all anagnosmaphobics, or perhaps you simply fear my attempts at stringing words together, photos will be accompanying this post soon - I intend to catalogue an inside and out restoration of the vehicle and hope this will be of more interest, or at least make this post more bearable. I will upload chapter 2 these evening, with some photos.
  10. Finally got a car I like.

    Not posed in these forums in a while and thought i would share my story/ on going project. A few months ago i was thinking about parting with my crumbling Renault Clio, motivated by the fact that three years driving around farm tracks hasn't kept it in 'best' condition and my insurance steadily declining from my first insurance quote of 2.5k on a 52 plate 1.2 punto i bought for 500 pound, to a more manageable 400 pound quote on my Clio more recently.. you know after five years of driving without accident or injury. My first cars were bought to the strict requirement of not being outstripped by passing butterflies, and not requiring a mortgage to insure. In five years Ive ran two punto's and this renault clio While in my family we seem to be very good at buying cars ( that is not to say that the cars we buy are very good ) we don't seem to be very good at selling them, my dad decided to part with one of the punto's that was being kept as a spare, despite the fact that it ran well for 2 years and i drove it 60 miles round every day for college, it was deemed far to unsafe for my younger sister, who was bought a mini at about double the cost of my first three cars combined, excuse me while i cough princess under my breath. Perhaps that's unfair, i have never had the best track record with looking after my vehicles, a couple of days after passing my test i blew the head gasket on my first punto when two miles out in the back and beyond we found out that the fan wasn't working in the punto, that wasn't my fault, but the issue was the fact that we had been ticking over in first across country, lights off, lamp out one window my friend perched on the window sill with the rifle. Play stopped due to the thick fog that dropped in, though we quickly realized the fog was coming from my bonnet. Which had to be refilled from a sheep trough three fields away; after the first trip with a sandwich bag with a hole in it failed, we had to use a wellie. Anyway, back to last month, I was leaving work having just watched my boss reverse into a large rock "thats what bumpers are for" and leaving with a larger than usual smile on my face, to visit my girlfriend. Driving steadily along at a cool 15 MPH thinking over cars i might like to get and thinking unhappy thoughts of trying to sell my old clio thankfully he in his infinite wisdom decided to show his hand; resulting in the most BTEC car crash you can imagine. I'm looking ahead at the next junction where i might make a u turn so I'm facing the right way for work in the morning, the next junction to my right is about 100 yards away and i see a car pull up to the junction, where she sits for several seconds, careering past the junction... at 15 miles an hour, i begin to pass in front of her and see that she had already started to pull out; the road is narrow but there is room for two cars, she is looking right I'm coming from her left. She is still looking right as she looks over hard right and pulls out to the left. Time slows, "Any second, any second now she will see me, she will see me and slam on, and probably mouth the word wnkr give my the first two and curse my for driving well within the speed limit and obeying the highway code; its clearly what she will do" I'm watching her as i pass and watching as she plants her foot down on the accelerator, crossing over the middle of the road and into the side of my car; she's still looking right, her foot is still on the accelerator. What could have been a small bump turns into a very slow and groaning crumpling of the drivers side back end of my car. Fantastic. Being the cool cat i am i lept out of the vehicle remained level headed and called my dad, i tend not to make a habit of car accidents and i genuinely had no idea what i had to do, i took pictures she gave me her insurance details, and admitted liability while the driver of the other vehicle helpfully stood there crying causing the net curtains up and down the street to flicker with interest. Fast forward the next day i hear that the other driver true to her word took full liability for the crash the visible damage to my vehicle can only be described by imagining what it would look like of a car accelerated into the drivers side rear door. Also on the drivers side front the suspension or damper of whatever it was had collapsed. As you can tell I'm very much a car guy and i honestly couldn't have given a flying one; the car was still quite considerably faster than walking. Anyway i hope you enjoyed my rambling preamble setting the scene for whats to come; i needed a new car. Most of the time i work from home, i took the hire car offered but can honestly say it did very few miles with me; amazingly it still managed to drink plenty of fuel and despite being nearly brand new it was sluggish on the road, the accelerator was unresponsive in the first 3/4 of its travel and the rear window was more like a cat flap; this helped because although i have never considered a 17 plate renault clio, i now knew i didn't want one. With the car returned i was no closer to finding a replacement vehicle, i insured myself on a spare vehicle we have and use for towing, but it was frustrating to find on a weekend, it was already in use or someone had plans for it between, 11 and half 3. So i was a bit stuck. I quite fancied a discovery 3, though i knew i couldn't afford or run one, because everyone i knew told me "seriously, dont do it" i listened to this advice but a discovery 2 seemed like not such a bad idea, somewhat less electronics to go wrong and proven to go on into high mileage; which on my budget id be lucky to find something at 120k miles. Hours of window shopping and still no car; do i just buy an old junker and see how long it lasts, or do i try and buy something properly and right? Family advice was not all that helpful, mum; 'just get what you want all cars are a money pit anyway', Dad; ' You are an idiot ' while both were frankly close to the truth, none got me any closer to getting a vehicle. Weighing up my options a defender seemed most attractive, i grew up working with dad on series landrovers and we have owned sation wagons, safari thingys, light weight, series 1, 2 a and b and series 3 along side to every workshop becoming a home for various bits and pieces , and what is a defender but series with some inner wheel arches anyway. Surprisingly the defender had relatively cheap insurance, fitted the bill for being able to tow, suitable for throwing the dog in the back, affordable in the way that if anything goes wrong i can probably do it myself. That's decided then; a defender. I'm not interested and Im not bothered, i don't care how many lame horses pull your car or how many TDI's live under the bonnet, i really don't know what it all means and it doesn't interest me enough to learn. This is my 'ignorance is bliss' outlook. What i do know and what is quickly confirmed is that anything i can afford is a piece of junk, the inflated values of these vehicles make that so. That being the case i wanted an honest piece of junk, not a polished piece of junk, i saw a few locally and quickly got bored with tapping bulkheads which were made out of filler. Id sooner have one obviously rusted through than one filled and filled and filled again. Back to eBay, the watch list now spiraling out of control with a plethora of inappropriate vehicles alerts on my phone every five minutes that another had sold, or was ending soon. Another weekend largely stuck at home, i had found one, i had spent all of 8 minutes looking at it.. looks alright, i mean rubbish really but sort of alright. "Dad, I think i might buy a defender ",... "don't, your stupid if you buy one", helpful. So that night i did what any really stupid person would do i sent the guy a message saying ill pay and collect it tomorrow, I'm presuming its a piece of junk? I asked.. well it does have its issues he replied and gave me a short list of issues you would expect to find on a defender vehicle of its age. Fine. Super. See you tomorrow. Done. Ignorance is bliss, tomorrow I'll have a new car. Sorted. My one stubby french beer having worn off the next morning i work to realize that i had actually given my word, so i spent the morning trying to arrange a friend to give my my 60 mile lift, after being laughed at solidly for half an hour 'you haven't even seen it!" i managed to find some friends good enough to give up their Sunday to help an idiot, Skulking out of the house after lunch i went to collect my new car, its a bit like buying a new gun, except you cant hide your indulgence in a cabinet. After quite a long time sitting in traffic, we got there, and the seller shook my hand, which one is the idiot? it was me of course, and i was now face to face with what i had done, it was great fun and easily one of the best decisions i have made that week. Something quite fun about driving a car you haven't seen 60 miles home in the dark, when you really have no idea if its up to the journey. One friend who came with me was a mechanic and quickly noted that it had no coolant, could do with some oil, and that three wheel bearings needed attention; this is the tip of the iceberg, the drivers side footwell needs patching, the passenger side outrigger need replacing, the drivers side door pillar is rusting, the bulk head near the drivers side is starting to rust Most of the vent surround on the top of the bulk head has just gone on the passenger side, the door bottoms are gone and the door frames need repairs, the chasis needs a patch or two in places, treating with phosphoric and wax oiling. the front pads and discs needs doing, the rear door needs beating out after 'an argument with a trailer', Interior, is exactly what you expect; not brill. It got home fine. Needs sorting before the MOT in december so i'm up against it. I hope my post is not insulting to people who pride themselves on being real car guys - hope to share with you my progress and work on the vehicle and hopefully celebrate when i get it through an MOT, aim to share a few pictures with you along the way, be doing all the work myself.
  11. Getting oil out of wood

    Walnut oil is a drying oil and will do no harm to your stock but like un refined linseed it drys or as you correctly say polymerizes very slowly, with a lot of oils a by product of this process is heat, and its not unheard of for rags soaked in drying oils to catch fire, keeping it in a tin probably would have prevented it from catching on fire due to a lack of oxygen if in the unlikely event it got hot enough to set fire, but it is something to look out for !
  12. Length of pull confusion

    length of pull will affect felt recoil, Before i sent some stuff to scrap i extended a gun to 17 inches and shot it cutting it down each time by an half inch. The test took rather longer than i was expecting because at 17 inches it was like being hit in the shoulder by a sledge hammer ( genuinely hurt me and was unwilling to shoot for a week at least ), if you look at your body position with a long stock you have to stretch your body, arms ect, this gives you less room to move when the gun recoils, the guns now recoiling into a shoulder that has nowhere to move; by the time i got to 15 1/2 inch the recoil was bearable but seemed to get to a sweet spot about 14 1/2 for me. ( all my guns are stocked to 14 3/4 ) at 13 inches the gun was far too loose in my shoulder, ended up with a gap between my shoulder and the stock which allowed the recoil to accelerate the gun into my shoulder. Lots of other factors to gun fit in terms of getting the gun to fit properly but from this little experiment i think length of pull is important in felt recoil, a gunstock too long means your stretching your arms and body, which gives your shoulder nowhere to move with the recoil. Too short and you have a gun that's bouncing around in your shoulder. Everyone will have an ideal length but probably 3/4" either side of that measurement is bearable/usable. Why i think this matters is when you have young shots, or ladys or any novice for that sake who takes a gun off the rack, especially a novice who is fearful of or anticipating recoil there is a good chance that the gun that is fine for you will give your mrs or kids a sore shoulder. Just thought that might be interesting. Was shooting 28 gram hull imperial game for the testing, gun was about 7.5 lbs just from memory.
  13. gun shop

    I don't know but consider a well stocked gunshop, he has a range of new guns on offer some second hand stuff that was worth doing up and selling on with a small margin then a few unremarkable guns in sound condition but of no real value. Probably half the guys buying a new gun want to PX an old one in, for cabinet space or just to get rid of junk, might be a problem magnet of a gun, might be old and worn, might be out of proof, could be worthless, might get hundred quid for it, might be worth doing up and selling, but even a tart up costs some brass. Even when its worth selling on the margin is slim. Look at auctions like holts and the scot arm auction, unnamed unremarkable guns can be bought in lots of five or six at a time for pittance. He could get two years supply of junkers that take up storage space for £100. When you look at it like that £50 might be insulting or it could just be a reflection of how long the gun is going to sit there prior to sale or how much work needs doing to it to bring it to a standard good enough to sell. A privater buyer might think a english BLE is a bargain at £300 with bluing a bit thin and a stock thats desperate to be refinished; a retailer might offer you half that,if he's unlucky he might find its on the verge of proof, does he scrap the gun and lose £150 or put it through reproof at cost and potentially gain more, before it goes on sale its going to need £200 quid tart up, stock and barrels, an evening picking out checkering, presuming someone with those skills are on hand. Guns now cost him probably £400 + time. sticks it on the shelf at £650, hes only making £250 for all the work, the organization of outworkers, and the sale. Doesnt seem to me to be the daylight robbery people make it out to be, just my 2p's worth. - Don't own a gun shop but have worked in and for some.
  14. Cogswell & Harrison barrels.....

    If its been deactivated not much chance of getting it back to usable condition. If its been cut off after the chambers your most economic option is to get it sleeved ( still looking at over £1000 quid ) its not impossible to find a set of barrels from another gun which may be worked down to fit this gun; it is however very unlikely and would require very skilled labour in order to achieve this and an associated cost. Look into getting it sleeved.
  15. Gun Shop Thirsk

    I'll ask about Is this a shop in living memory?
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