demonwolf444

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At this stage the holes are drilled and the screws fitted up, with everything at the right depth the screws should be able to be brought on to the original north south alignment and be tight. This being the case i begin shaping the stock down, carefully checking again against the customers measurements to ensure the gun fit of the end product. Series of lines are drawn from established profiles to work the stock down to shape, with planes, spoke shaves and rasps. The stock is worked evenly up to the rear of the panel and point which is left as a block planed square to the action body. Once the stock is pretty well shaped i cut and contour in the panel and point. Shaping a stock is a finiky process it has to feel right, look right and measure right, often fresh eyes reveal an area where you need to remove more timber to create a pleasing result Once profiled the stock is sanded with care to maintain flat and radius-ed areas the grain being raised between each grit. The the stock can be checkered replicating the original pattern. The checkering is cut roughly at this stage and will be tidied up when the finish is finished! Before the stock can be finished the oval is fitted. and the back end profiled to the measurements, and checkered. Many coats of alkanet oil are required in order to match the stock the the original colour. The stock is nearly ready to being oil finishing as the finishing oil will continue to darken the stock a little. Many thanks Gordon, there is much at stake when working with these blanks, blanks before i start work can be an investment of over £1000, and a slip of a chisel or a poorly maintained machine or a rogue blade, orbadly timed sneeze can ruin all! By no means a master by any stretch of the imagination, but always striving to be better than the last job!

The next piece of the puzzle of the trigger plate, along with the hand pin bolster this creates the draw that holds the stock to the action, the black is from soot which is used as a spotting medium in order to cut in the bearing surfaces. once the trigger plate is let in and is solid and to the correct depth, the lock work is added to the plate and the necessary relief cuts are made.

In my late teens i became fascinated with the arts and mystery of gunsmiths and for many years now its been something of a life pursuit, learning a trade and honing the necessary skills, ever since i left school it has been my earnest wish and intention to be the best i can be, and try to make a living doing so. I've been trading professionally a few years and it has not been easy however im pleased to say that even in these difficult times i feel what i'm doing is worth my while. My first dip of the toe into gunsmithing was entirely this forums fault; making a gun stock for a gun gifted to me by another member of these forums, a gun that will never be parted with and one i have a sentimental attachment to. I fully recorded this process at the time, with the limited learning, tools and skills i had at the time, i'm surprised my effort was as good as it was! From the outset some forum members provided endless support advice and encouragement, a member gave me the gun, a member sent me a set of chisels ( still have them!) a scraper, some checkering tools, they could obviously see my passion for what i was trying to do and gee'd me on. We don't know the impact we have on the people we interact with; even with the virtual space we are both now self isolating in. Despite the trouble it has caused me, the frustration and expense, i thank all of you for setting me on the path i now walk. So, to business, imagine my delight when Old farrier, one of my supporters from the day i first scratched with a blunt chisel messaged me to ask if i could make him a stock, gunsmithing is great but stock making is the singular aspect of my work which i could happily do, forever and a day. Naturally i agreed to do so and true to his word old farrier had the gun delivered to me without delay. The gun was a boxlock ejector by Anson though badly in need of a service, re blue and a new stock it was well made, well put together, tight, and with a good amount of original finish remaining of the colour case hardening. Making a stock for a gun like this is never really a financially viable prospect, you have to do it for you, your own enjoyment and to preserve a piece of history which might from a financial point of view be destined for the scrap bin. The original stock really had had a hard life, first it had been cracked and pinned at the head, it had been shortened and subsequently lengthened, there were numerous cracks and chips where the wood meets the metal, to top it off the stock had been bent for a heavy left hand cast ( beyond even my left handed needs! ) and had subsequently cracked around the wrist and inletting. One crying shame was that the original wood was uniquely beautiful, when restocking i always attempt to find a blank that will work into a stock that is true to the style and feel of an original, slight upgrades or downgrades are permissible but restocking a British made gun with a garish piece of american walnut will always look out of place no matter how well executed. The first blank we selected had an issue and was scrapped before the project went any further, a natural void opened up in the timber which was a real shame as the blank was strikingly similar to the original stock. Determined to find OF a decent blank the next best match was one i had sat on, reserved for a person project which was yet to be started these last five years. After a short battle with myself i decided i would rather see the blank into a stock than see it collect dust for another 10 years. The blank Part way through heading up. So I began heading up. Heading up is the initial process of putting an action into a blank, the difficulty of this task varies depending on the gun, but as will all stock making time spent measuring out and laying out saves time with the chisel. Heading up is complete once the action is on a solid bearing with the head of the stock and the top strap is on a good bearing all round. the "head" of the stock. The top strap bearing.

Can make you one if you get stuck.

Sounds like bull, RFD banking with HSBC here and no issues ( watch now ill check my emails and be ********! ). The regulations are really strict however and i have heard this rumor before so when i opened my account i asked about it, the only grounds under which they close accounts is that they have had issues with RFD's and other businesses supplying the military and HSBC cant have anything to do with the military for whatever reason, my bank manager told me of one business who had their account closed as they were making brass cylinders for a military contract, which eventually became primers in artillery shells. ( hastily going to check my emails now! )

If you need a hand with it bring it up to the workshop - you need the right tool to remove the disc set strikers which do look in poor shape but its impossible to tell if that's what is at fault. You have small chance of buying a tool new or second hand to remove the discs the distances on the pins are different from maker to maker in my experience. I usually end up making a new one for each job, every time i think surely one of the ones i have must fit - but no luck yet! from the engraving on the barrels its very very similar in style to an arrietta that's in at the minute.

I always wondered about them as over a few years we used to find deer wounded by crosbow bolts every few week. Anyhow found a reasonably modern one that my friend had, it was just a cheap one i'm told but i think it will be over 80LBS. Shot it into some round straw bales stacked in an empty silage clamp, the bolt went clean through the first and into the second by 6 inches or more. The power was quite incredible I'm at a bit of a loss to see what would stop a bolt that you could easily set up in the garden.

I'd take with you a wall thickness gauge and a shotgun bore micrometer. I wouldn't trust whoever catalogued the last load, unfortunately im away this weekend or i could meet you there with tools and run through the catalogue though last time it was largely a wasted effort. - Last time nearly every gun had sprung ribs, damaged barrels, bulges, or were out of proof, plenty of guns were listed as 16 bores or 20 bores and turned out to be other sizes completely. There appear to be some okay looking boxlock ejectors in this time around - everything else i would steer clear of.

Last time i was at rydale there were 70 - 80 lots, every single gun nearly had a handful of faults which were not reflected in the bidding. I would not recommend buying a gun at auction if you don't have the knowledge to properly appraise them - Next sale is the 8th December - which i don't think i can make.

Have the bores measured and proof checked. Its not worth £37 if the barrels are out no matter how clean they look.

worked with yew a lot - Its nothing like as evil as tropical hard woods. Best high gloss finish is a few coats of shellac based sanding sealer then a couple of coats of true oil - which is an oil/varnish mix - the result comes out really really nice on yew particularly. Yew heart wood will darken some what with age. If you do breathe in a lot of dust the result is pretty much like a crippling hangover. Hand sand or use machines with extraction. If possible sand outside and you will be fine. good yews a beautiful material my childhood home was surrounded by yew tree's so i spent a lot of my childhood working with it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Grobet-Knife-Edge-Swiss-Pattern-File-Pillar-Checkering-6-Inch-Cut-4-75-lines/401736015327?hash=item5d89551ddf:g:FCYAAOSwpMZcl3D- 75 lines to the inch would create very fine "jimping" 30 lines might be better but may be too course https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Grobet-Knife-Edge-Swiss-Pattern-File-Pillar-Checkering-6-Cut-0-30-lines-per/401814578830?epid=2255967767&hash=item5d8e03e68e:g:Y1MAAOSwxOBdKYTx

try ordering from dembart directly ?

1 Part beeswax to 4 parts parrafin wax ( vaseline ) Before. After Water proof? yep. Been doing it for years

Guns with NVSN just get entered on your ticket as NVSN - sometimes they might ask for particular or identifying features but its not an issue there are thousands out there with no S/N. Is the pin missing or is it just short or broken off? not a big issue but will need addressing, from pin goes through the cocking dogs, middle pin goes through the hammers/strikers, rear pin goes trough the sears. As for Re laying ribs, its pretty uncommon that you can get away with bodging them back together, there is usually old rust, soldier and flux floating around in the rib cavity. If you are careful you can lift the top rib leaving the others in place, clean the cavity, tin the mating surfaces make sure to neutralize if your tinning compound is acidic wire everything back up and relay, you need some parallel surfaces to set the barrels on while doing this, non galvanised annealed iron wire to wire the tubes and ribs together with, rosin flux is best, tin lead soldier, you want to gently clamp the muzzles and watch the flux, you want it melted and hot enough for the soldier to run but without burning the flux ideally. Do not get the barrels too hot, horse shoe nails are ideal for going under the wires and clamping down on the ribs to hold everything in place, go steady and ensure everything is straight as a die. Clean and clean and clean again once everything has cooled, then re blue. Its quite an involved process, genuinely takes me the best part of a day to clean strip and re lay everything and Ive done it a few times now. Attached video of your typical rib cavity - and no i'm not using my best chisel.

Re advertised due to unforeseen circumstances. English springer spaniel bitch for sale. "Tilly" is a 10 week old liver and white english springer spaniel bitch, she is from our litter born on the 20/01/2019, she had a home lined up but due to unforeseen circumstances she is looking for a home once again. Tilly is KC reg, with a 5 generation pedigree, working parents on both sides, legally docked and dew clawed, vet checked, microchipped, wormed and up to date with her vaccinations. She is a good pup who keeps her kennel clean, and lives out, though is being house trained. Very sweet natures and showing good instincts, lovely spotted markings coming out on her legs, liver head, white on one side with liver markings over her bum and tail I'm eager to find her a good home and for her to get settled somewhere nice, she will make a great working dog/ field companion/ family pet. Based near Northallerton North Yorkshire, can be viewed by arrangement pretty much whenever suits. £850. Litter IMG_1027.MOV Mother Father

Thanks for the praise! Don't be silly - its about maintaining a standard and learning as you go. Anyone who thought they knew everything from day dot was wrong, and anyone who thinks they know it all by the end of their time has settled for "good enough" or simply doesnt care enough to continue the journey. Your work is nothing to be ashamed of - just look at the hundreds of guns you see with rounded off but ends and a valley between the pad and end, checkering sanded over or even worse run over with some kind of dremmel attachment and little consideration. Here are some recent works for the enjoyment of people who like to see this sort of thing!

powdered chalk and water into a paste, slather it on thick and ontop of the aga or in the oven at 30 or in the airing cupboard or something. It what i use on any seriously oil soaked heads of stocks. Takes days, scrub it off with a soft brass brush, and repeat, id be amazed if you needed to do it twice.

Thanks for the interesting replies gents 👍 I could post on the 4x4 forums but this forum is home!! Its performance is back where it should be; the cars no whipper snapper it's done 168k... but it only averages out at about 3k a year. Legend has it it has done a few expeditions in its time but I've forgotten the folklaw passed down to my by its previous owner... I think it went somewhere snowy. Going to flush and clean the oil, fit new injector nozzles and new viscous fan/water pump also got a new cam belt and tensioner but that seems like a scary undertaking for some reason? and picked up a plug in thingy today, ran it today, firing up absolutely flawlessly, like as soon as the key makes contact it's running, battery light didn't come on or anything; it certainly didn't enjoy the cold weather, difficulty Is when I stop for lunch I usually **** around for Half an hour on the car just putting a new door striker on or something, so I don't know if it's just me leaving the interior lights on and such, going to bypass the heater matrix and give that a clean/replace if bunged up, would be nice to have a bit of heat. I made a dog guard thought being I could attach a series fume curtain to try and keep the heater just heating the cab and not the rear tub space also.. I'm back to the half inch gap at the top of the door really bugging me. In that respect life is good

Looking likely to be down to the last bitch looking for a home; will confirm this weekend

Just a BUMP Had a few people asking for a location - Im near Northallerton North Yorkshire. One bitch found its new home, someone keen on another coming to view a bitch this weekend, leaving two bitches and the dog! If you have any interest then please get in touch.

Just thought i would put this on here, problem solved so to speak but don't fully understand why it presented the symptoms it presented Landy been running absolutely fine, i do give it some hammer but it just keeps on going.. i thought i had got to the point with it where my biggest concern was the half inch gap at the top of the passenger door - for a self admitted 26 year old disaster case ( car not me ) is pretty good going. Last Monday did 200 miles in it - as you can imagine untold driving pleasure. Last Tuesday did 40 miles in it. last Wednesday did a mile to the pub for dinner and back. last Thursday evening cold - struggled to start but then started - Suspected battery or alternator failing ( can cope with that its on the list of parts that haven't been replaced ) . Got a mile down the road in second due to steep hill ( 1 in 5 ) and serious ice out. Decide to get up to speed and the engine revs and then dies away, just about make second gear but not enough power to sustain it. Look behind me; oh balls, I've asphyxiated the village by turning it into some parody of a Victorian mill town with my exhaust smoke. Mum and sister at the family home - neither competent, so wasn't going to ask for a tow back up the hill, the bloody thing would make it home. Which it did, at a stately and hesitant 3mph, billowing its clouds like some teenager with a vape stick as it went. Spent three days looking at it occasionally hoping it would cure its self ( landys sometimes do ) while my dad bleated that the head gasket was gone and when i asked what he thought was wrong with it his only answer was "everything" which wasn't really helping me much. Prices and advice sought, bit of head scratching under the bonnet, a test drive where it appeared to cure its self. Week goes by and id decided it was the lift pump, there seemed to be a post a week on lift pumps failing on the internet and given that mine was recently replaced it was probably due to fail. First things first just check the fuel filter.. AH, we have the culprit. £5.17p and problem solved. What i don't understand is why being starved of fuel results in loads of whitish smoke smelling of un burnt diesel? Anyway, just another adventure in the rust bucket! Edit to add - Jesus 26 years has not been kind to that rear axle - Summer project to swap that out.

Had various muzzle loaders over the years! Joy to use once you get the right load!