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About nabbers

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    Skipton Yorkshire
  • Interests
    Rough shooting
    Fly fishing

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  1. Breaking my silver 05 Nissan Navara D22, Most parts available eg; Rear Tub in reasonable condition inc tailgate and lights and load liner £150 Gearbox £150, Front diff Unit £ 70, Very nice condition full interior in grey cloth £150, Sump £15, collection Nr Skipton
  2. Fine sentiments Wildfowler! Epic jacket! Looks like 'BB' or Earnest Shackleton should be in it!
  3. Not my size, but now I want one!
  4. I have one here at Bolton Abbey. Good condition £50
  5. Needs to sell quickly as River licence about to run out. Bargain at £4000 tell your friends! Relcraft are a UK manufacturer of boats with a reputation for excellent design, build and quality of mouldings and materials and well known for their John Maxham designed fast cruisers. The advanced hull with its deep V and concave chines create stabilising rails when the boat is cruising at high speeds making this a comfortable and economical cruiser for river lake and estuary, equally at home at a sedate speed on on the canal. There follows an accurate description, the good points massively override the bad, but we want you to have an accurate picture of what you are buying: Caprice was built in 1987 and it is a tribute to the quality of workmanship of the builders that she retains all her original gelcoat to hull, decks and roof and it is in sound condition, so many boats from this era have been badly painted, but this one is all original, meaning if you do want to change the colour of the deck, it can be done with minimal preparation using modern marine paint, otherwise, a little TLC by the new owner will revitalise the shine and the boat will look stunning. A tour around the hull shows some minor damage from knocks and scrapes accrued over the years, but there is nothing of major significance and all easily repairable. There is a mast for the marine radio, bilge pump, horn, an anchor chain winch and the hauser pipe and ample robust deck fittings, cleats etc. A step/bathing platform a the stern. An amply proportioned and very flat coach roof makes an inviting place to soak up the sun on lazy day cruises. The hatch on the foredeck may need replacing as it is looking tired and has been resealed several times. Navigation lights are fitted. The canvas work forming the spacious awning over the ample sized cockpit was replaced with stunning new blue canvas work by 'The Canvas Man' at a no expense spared price of £1600 in 2018. The cockpit has high sides to keep your children safe and full standing height, two swivel seats that are removable and folding and recently re-covered in blue and white vinyl. Aft is a bench seat that would benefit from replacement from a cosmetic viewpoint although the existing fitment is sound. The cockpit makes a great undercover entertainment area which can also be opened to the sunshine through removable panels if required. A full array of metres and gauges, ignition switch, selector for the twin batteries, steering wheel and forward, neutral and reverse controls are mounted to the starboard helm's position. Also fitted is a COBRA 2 way marine radio with GPS capability. Under your feet is the hatch to the engine, reportedly original to the boat, a marinised diesel Ford Transit engine which starts easily and is very quiet, but powerful and powers the boat via a sterndrive. The engine had a new fuel pump and fuel service in March 19, spares are cheap and easily acquired although this is strong reliable unit with comparatively few operating hours. Down two steps through the companionway in to the roomy open plan cabin, with standing height and to port is the heads with a porta potty and basin in its own cubicle. Opposite is an ample sized locker with hanging space for clothes or waterproofs. Again to port is a large U-shaped seating area with a table that drops to form a double berth, opposite on the starboard side midships is the galley which has an immaculate two burner gas hob, as new oven, 2 way fridge and S/S sink and cold pumped water, everything works as it should. Moving forwards is V-berth accommodation with an infill to form a second double berth so accommodation is for 4 people in the cabin with room for more in the cockpit. The cabin is in all honesty perfectly comfortable and functional, but a little tired looking. The wooden fittings are original and solid, but would benefit from varnishing and updating. You can enjoy this boat as it is, or enjoy the project element and a simple internet search tells you there is room for profit in the future if you upgrade things steadily in the meantime as boats of this class with modernised interiors, regularly sell for up to £8000. Collection and payment: The successful bidder must undertake to collect the boat before the end of November and pay by cash or PayPal. There is the free use of a slipway at the home marina or direct access to the River Ouse to remove the boat.
  6. Can't post any more pictures. The artefact was found by a friend who showed it to me yesterday and I only took the one picture. Aircraft engine starter was another thought.
  7. Can anyone ID this metal detecting find? Appears to be some sort of round, about the size of between 20 and 12G brass and no primer, crimp or roll over evident smooth flat ends. Some stars engraved on it. Bit of weight to it but feels lighter than a 1 ounce cartridge. Found close to an area where WW2 manoeuvres were carried out. I wondered if it was a a signal flare, a primer for a shell or bomb?
  8. I have a couple of Winchester Model 67 stocks for a bolt action .22 gathering dust....
  9. Looking back through previous posts on PW, there was a time when people were a bit more positive about Amateur Gun smithing and there is quite a bit of rib replacement advice tucked away here including "One advantage of relaying ribs is that if it dose go wrong you can always start again ." from a seasoned and respected Gunsmith. After an evening of research, I've decided Larry's method in the video isn't the proper way of doing things. He just coats the surfaces in flux, clamps them together and melts solder into the join like you do when your are plumbing. That means his water based flux is trapped under the rib and although less acidic than some, it could still rot the barrels. So I'm going down the route of tinning all surfaces and cleaning off any flux, then clamping them together and applying heat. Need to get my supplies first and the conflicting advice is bewildering. Rosin based flux seems to be the tradition way forward so I'll go with that. Silver Solder needs too much heat I believe and someone also said it makes the construction too rigid, putting strain on other parts so I'm leaning towards a 40/60 lead based product although a complete amateur on another thread on here in 2011 used Lead free solder from Aldi and was happy with the results. As with many specialised high labour cost niche trades, Gunsmiths don't like to give away all their secrets and I don't blame them, so this process might be one of trial and error util I hit on the right combination of products....unless anyone has tried and tested first hand advice?
  10. A bath of white or cider vinegar takes off old blueing, warming it makes it work faster. I've never had difficulty reblueing gun barrels, so I wonder if there is a residue to contend with? silicone maybe from cleaning or lubrication products? I'd polish the bare metal with very fine emery and clean with acetone.
  11. Yeah absolutely, just mentioned that as an aside really. I have several solders available as it turns out my girlfriend used to work for a company that specialises in solder and she has a few samples! But things are on hold until get info on the best one to use! Ditto with the flux, some yanks pre tin all surfaces using an acid based flux, then clean off and mate the surfaces using a rosin based product. Larry in the video mentions water based flux.
  12. Basically this is what I am trying to achieve. Back to bare metal now and just working out which solder is appropriate. Some of the Yanks are using epoxy and filling the whole void.
  13. The same issues could be lurking under that perfectly looking rib on your own gun, especially if it has any age to it. The good news is the rust has cleaned off The barrels nicely, it was mainly crud that cleaned right off. The makers have scribed a little channel for the rib to sit in which should make lining it up easier. The rib has one defective area that means it would never be perfect unless I get that area welded up and ground down, it’s worth doing I think. JjsDad is correct, the challenge will be not buckling the rib as it expands under the heat applied to melt the solder. Structurally I can’t see if a piece of metal soldered to two barrels adds any strength? I doubt it, and what looks such an integral part of the gun is pretty much cosmetic other than being essential for aim. Going to hit the American forums to find out what specification of solder would be best unless anyone here knows?
  14. Always an option, but learning about how these are put together and facing the challenges of a restoration are all far more interesting.
  15. Well done JJsDad for having a go! Nothing will dissuade me from having a go too, I'm not burning any bridges, if the repair doesn't work, it can easily be de-soldered and done by an expert, but there is no money in the budget for that. There's a pretty good video online by Larry who featured in the video posted above on this thread and I reckon that if I can straighten out the rib which already had a buckle in it and remove all the rust then I can solder it back in place just fine. I do worry about the effect of leaving flux residue in the void under the rib if I follow Larry's method. Maybe that's a reason why the area rusts? Done plenty of plumbing and some lead burning in my time so whilst I've never soldered steel to steel, now is the time to have a go!
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