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No Dosh

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About No Dosh

  • Birthday 30/07/1970

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  • From
    Darkest Dorset (Purbecks)
  • Interests
    Mountain biking, skiing, my Alfa Romeo..... but most importantly I'm interested in supporting local farmers, the Great British Countryside and all it contains.
  1. CO2 is much more susceptible to changes in volume (and therefore pressure) with temperature fluctuations. Fill it on a cold day and when it warms up the gun could end up over pressure and you will blow a seal (no, not the that sort of blow and not that sort of seal either). There's also an issue with argon, which has a 50% larger molecular size than oxygen and similarly slower expansion rate when pressure is released, as has CO2. By having a high concentration of these denser gases your muzzle velocity will drop through the floor (CO2 guns have larger transfer ports to allow for this). Remember that normal air in a diving bottle is mostly Nitrogen and Oxygen (similar expansion rates) and has been filtered to within an inch of its life as it is used for breathing. Can you say the same of the contents of your welding bottle? If you fill your PCP with anything other than compressed air you are at best going to see a marked change in the performance of your gun (up or down), damage the seals and possibly cause corrosion and at worst end up seriously injured. Most PCP manufacturers make it very clear on their websites that you must NOT use anything other than compressed air or you risk injury and will invalidate your warranty. In short, don't do it!
  2. If you download Chairgun you can run all kinds of simulations on the best setup for the laser and scope. For mine the scope (LoS 2" above barrel) is zeroed at 25m and the laser (5.25" above barrel) at 22m. This means that if the laser dot is on or above the centre of the crosshair the target is within 22m and I should aim using the crosshair. If the laser is below the crosshair but above the first mildot I aim for the laser rather than the crosshair (based on 6x mag). If the laser dot is below the first mildot the target is at or beyond 37m and the shot isn't taken as there is too much risk of wounding rather than a clean kill. Using this setup the crosshairs are within a 1" diameter killzone from 12m to 28m while the laser follows that same killzone out to 37m. There is a crossover between the crosshairs and laser at 22m to 25m, but the variance at the target is small at this point so either will do.
  3. No Dosh

    Pellets

    AA Field Domed 5.52. 10 pellets into a 10p piece-sized group at 30m? That will do nicely. And they give wabbits a hell of a headache, enough to make them lie down in my freezer to recover. But..... As mentioned by others, it has to work for YOUR barrel. Try different types until you are happy you have the pellet for your gun.
  4. If you fill to 170 and top up at 120 you get 30-40 fills from a 3l 300bar bottle on the carbine. 170 down to 120 is about 45-60 shots on an S410k.
  5. My S410k just came back from some fettling at AirArms knocking out a consistent 11.5. That's how they seem to set them. With that I can and do take out rabbits at 35m, 40 at a push. Took out 12 on Monday in 30 minutes, shooting from my pickup (unlit) driving around a field using a red filtered Deben Mini Pro. I've found using a laser to help with sighting/rangefinding massively improves my kill rate and has extended my range by 10m.
  6. I have got the very same. From the previous page: As mentioned, fine if you plan on laying up, but can be a bit noisy if you are stalking and decide to drop prone and make use of the bipod a short notice. Also tends to pan a bit too readily, but still a very welcome and useful improvement on no bipod at all.
  7. Are you sure you want the MAX pro? The beam is good for 400yards! MINI Pro is a better bet for airgunning (sub and over 12fpe) and rimfire with a 250m beam (good to 100m with the red filter).
  8. Hi James. To fit any studs to your S400 you should remove the stock. There is a single allen bolt just forward of the trigger assembly that you will need to undo. Once you have removed this you can carefully lift the action, barrel and trigger away leaving you with just the stock. Before you do this it is a good idea to offer the bipod up to the complete gun and work out exactly where you want it. I set mine up with the forward edge of the mounting plate about 1/2" behind the forward lip of the stock, but some may prefer theirs a little further back. Once you've found the ideal place then make a mark with a soft pencil where the stud will need to go. Ideally you should use a drillstand or drillpress to drill the stock. If you haven't got on then g e n t l y secure the stock in a vice or workmate (protected by cloth, sponge or whatever to prevent marking the stock). Remember you are only looking to hold the stock still so don't overtighten. Now find an appropriate size wood bit (should be the width of the stud screw inner, not including the thread - you need to leave enough wood for the screw thread to get a purchase). Put some tape on the drillbit at the required depth so you can see when you have gone deep enough to seat the screw but not so deep that you go all the way through the stock. Now you're set up, choose a medium drill speed and take a good deep breath...... and start drilling. Better to do this with minimum pressure, letting the drillbit find its own way rather than forcing it. As soon as the tape on the bit reaches your stock, stop. When you are happy your hole is sufficiently clean and deep, mount the stud and reassamble the rifle. You will need a small craft/jeweller's screwdriver to secure the oversize Bipod mounting stud over the standard stud you have just installed. If in doubt, don't drill! I should have taken pictures when I did mine. Didn't think about it at the time (doh!)
  9. I've got the JSR Pro and it's not the best. Creaks, groans and has a habit of rotating about 30deg if you put the slightest pressure on it. Not a stealth tool by any stretch of the imagination. Good enough if you plan on laying up in wait, but naff-all use if you plan on stalking and bringing the bipod out halfway throuhg the stalk (twang, clunk, squeal..... Where's the bloomin' rabbit gone?) :yp:
  10. Formula is: velocity (ft/sec) x velocity(ft/sec) x weight (grains) / 450240 (the number of grains in a lb) So with a 16grain pellet you get 510fps x 510fps x 16grain / 450240 = 9.24ft/lb The legal limit for a 16grain pellet would be 581ft/sec and for a 14grain pellet would be 621ft/sec Hope this helps. If you have access to Excel you can easily set up a spreadsheet and play with this for hours. Well, you have to do something when it's raining and all the bunnies are at home in their burrows.......
  11. Note that the Nissan and the Ford were built in the same factory, so build quality is identical to both. Nissan has a reputation for reliability, so people pay more for the Nissan than they will the Ford. Ford stopped selling a few years back, at which point a better 3.0TD was added to the range. If you are looking at Ford/Nissan era vehicles the Ford will be cheaper, despite being exactly the same vehicle. I used to sell these when they first came out and they are VERY capable vehicles. SWB has a very choppy ride and is less popular. LWB is a real work horse.
  12. It would have been hard not to touch the eyeball on one I got on Sunday evening. I took it out at 20 yards from behind, hitting between the base of the ears. The pressure wave caused by the pellet entering the skull caused both eyes to pop out, leaving them both hanging by the optic nerve. It still twitched. One I took on Tuesday was an interesting variation. I was in the pickup and spotted one some way out into the field. On seeing me it shot off behind a small bramble patch near the edge of the field but left it's ears poked up, allowing me to bring my aim in on him. I did a passable impersonation of a young rabbit's squeak and it popped it's head up, only to get 16gr of lead between the eyes for its troubles. Rabbit does a back-flip and lies still When I got over to it, it was clearly dead. Picked it up, necked it and was heading back to the truck when I noticed the heart was beating at about a thousand bpm. Plonked it down and put another round through the head, but the heart still kept going 19 to the dozen. Wierd.
  13. While it may be within the law to pot a pigeon in your garden in some circumstances, isn't there an issue with regard to your pellet leaving your property? Which is exactly what would happen if you miss. Just me being devils advocate...... Personally if my neighbour were kicking off I'd switch to potting targets in a pellet trap by the fence nearest their patio rather than have problems with plod. The constant "Plink! Plink! Plink!" should be revenge enough. If you really want to continue potting the pigeons, how about giving your local FLO a call and asking what your local force's interpretation/view on the DEFRA licence is?
  14. I remounted the scope on my 410 last night and set about zeroing it in again. After getting it dialled in I potted a few early drop apples that I'd lined up and was wondering what to shoot at next when a fly landed near the top of the 1" MDF I use as a backdrop to the pellet trap, doubtless attracted by the fine spray of exploded apple all over the place. Breathe in, breathe out, breathe in, half out... hold....."plink!" no more fly. Not bad from 30m! Just one leg stuck to the mdf as evidence of his passing, poor fly. Now I know why I got a 24x zoom..........
  15. Ooopsy, Thought I'd done the profile but I obviously didn't click on "update". Duly amended! Having had a further play with the scope it seems I had set it too far back on the rail as I was right on the limit for eye relief. When at max magnification I was pulling the stock in that bit harder and causing the fogging I described. Once I moved the mounts and scope forward 1/2" it all settled down nicely. I agree re. the magnification; I doubt I'll use it beyond 12x but the 24x setting is handy enough when zeroing the scope. As regards range, I can drop 10 pellets into a 1/2" group at 30m and a 1" group at 40m, although I have to watch it if I've just charged the rifle as the first few shots don't get full power and can drop a further 1" at 40m. Need to experiment with optimum fill pressures to sort that one out. It's a bit of a change from the centrefire .22 I used to use on the range when I was in the Air Cadets! Still, as I'll always fire off a few rounds into my target range before I "go live" each evening that shouldn't prove a problem. I went for a 50mm objective as I'm planning on using this setup for rabbit decimation, as the estate I live on hasn't had any bunny control in place for 3 or 4 years now and mixy is starting to crop up in some of the warrens. I'm meeting with the estate owner at the weekend to get the permission signed (he's already agreed in principle but we need to agree on priority areas - with 200acres to deal with it will be a long list! - and times I can shoot around the main house). I figured the larger objective would allow low light use, a view that was validated when I carried on plinking targets at ranges from 25-50m until 9:30 last night and only came in because the mossies had found me. Don't worry, I have no plans to try and get the conies at 50m, it was more a question of seeing what the outfit could do. If I can't get within 35m then no shot. I'm with you on the "you get what you pay for" bit. I didn't have high expectations but was a little puzzled by the way things went at higher magnification. As noted above, it turns out it wasn't a scope problem but user error. RTFM fault if you like..... Thanks for the warm welcome. After my inital post I think I'll stay away from the "over 12ft/lbs" threads in future........
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