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rjimmer

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Everything posted by rjimmer

  1. At least that's what the image proporties suggest. :(
  2. A local shop has one in .308 for £1750.00. I want a .223 but their are lots of different specs. I presume they will be about the same as the .308. They have the 700 (sendero?) fluted barrel synthetic in .223 for £750 (S/H) but I fancy the heavy barrel. Just quote me! by email if you like. What would be the delivery time.
  3. Which model? Looks like the Sport Shooting Bead 1.1 (3.0mm) is the one to get!!! Is Singlepoint still available? I'm not concerned about the size!
  4. Horrendous expensifold, I hear you say!!! Get a red dot instead!!!
  5. I was thinking exactly the same!! If it's rooks, then slices of white bread in front of a good hide are a deadly draw for them.
  6. My best season was 300 magpies and 90 crows. I think I got the plans from the Game Conservancy. The trap plans produce a trap 32 X 32 X 20 inches. I have made dozens for sale to people but the cost of sending them is prohibitive. Use 2" X 1" tanalised roofing batten. Predrill holes for 3" galvanized nails to stop it splitting. Use screws, stainless or brass, to fix the plywood top so that you can take it off to release the tension on the springs when it is not in use. If you have a lot of foxes about, put the trap on top of an oil drum or they will brake in for the call bird. You sometimes find a callbird with one leg missing because the other has been pulled off through the wire mesh. A magpie call bird will catch magpies and crows. A crow call bird will not catch magpies, only crows in my experience. Ravens are too crafty to get caught! I have only ever made top entry traps, but it is said that side entry traps are better for catching crows. Once you have caught your first call bird. Move it, in the trap, to the territory of another pair and you should catch them within an hour. Then use one of them as a call bird in a different territory, and so it goes on. Start using call birds at the beginning of April. March is a bit cruel on them in my opinion. Keep food and water in their compartment at all times. They love tripe, but they will equally eat the dead birds you have trapped and killed. Use them until the end of June or when you stop catching. You are unlikely to catch Jays until the middle of June when they have their own young in their nests. I have never caught a Jay myself but I know someone who has caught a lot. It is worth doing just to sees the extra small songbirds about. The RSPB traps crows and magpies on the Somerset levels. They use a contractor, with a condition that all evidence is destroyed. They also have foxes shot to protect ground nesting birds. Not sure what they do about hedgehogs!!!
  7. That more or less confirms what I was told. It might be the case with most breathables. Bunter! Are you still with us?
  8. You can find Sportchief here: http://www.ishop.co.uk/ishop/859/shopscr54.html and here: http://www.thesportingexperience.co.uk/products.php?cat=1 and here: http://www.euroguns.co.uk/acatalog/Coats_J...s_Trousers.html and here: http://www.euroguns.co.uk/acatalog/Coats_J...s_Trousers.html and here: http://www.avalon-guns.com/acatalog/ They seem to be about £100.00 more expencive than Deerhunters. Exchange rate differences betweeen Canada and Denmark? Glad you mentioned the barbour endurance. I had considered one!!! Swandri do a tweed stalker still, I think. Got to get to work now. Cheers
  9. The guides' clients will all have Game Licenses of course!!
  10. Nice to see you didn't start too early. I get fed up going on roost shoots where they want to start just after dinner (lunch if you're posh). The birds get driven right out of the area and find somewhere quiet before they want to roost. You don't see them again. 4.00 pm is about right for the first shot on the first Saturday in Feb and about 15 mins later each week if you can get everybody to agree. Then there are those organizers who think they are being clever by waiting a week or two to let everybody else scare to pigeons to their area. Everybody out every Saturday in Feb and stick to it. It's total bag, not individual bags that count!!
  11. The chap who told me that Sportchief leaked was a fellow wildfowler and beater and he was wearing one at the time. He said they were fine, but if he leaned on something then the water would penetrate at that point. I presume it only leaked while he was leaning against something. He said they were exceptionally warm but took ages to dry out, once soaked. He gave £200.00 for it at Sportarm in Dorchester. There was also a posting on one of the fishing forums that did not think much of Sportchief but I can't find it now. Glad yours is OK! They certainly look nice and long. How often do you wear it? Musto! I know several people, in fact lots of people, who have Musto jackets. Most of them are in the gun line as opposed to the beating line. Keepers who wear them have usually had them supplied by the shoot so don't care if they have to get a new one each season. Others will not wear them beating in case they rip them. All the Musto jackets that I have seen are of a material nowhere near as durable as the goretex jacket that I had. I don't want to spend 2 weeks wages on a coat that is only going to last 1 season! Is there a cammo Musto jacket? I also looked at the stuff from http://www.kammo.co.uk . One keeper said the one he had was rubbish while one of the beaters said that the Field Coat SL that he had from them had never leaked a drop, but I never saw him wear it beating. He always wears a Swandri for beating. The Kammo coats in the newer cammo patterns do not appear to be in the same, material as the Field Coat. N.B. reynard895 posted while I was typing this in!!! I had a look at the riverswest site. I like the look of the Dakota Waterfowl model. Wonder what the exchange rate will do for the prices. Nice to hear what was said about the Deerhunter Ram. I was expecting it to get heavy in the rain. Just like the Sportchief!!! I might get another in a plain colour for wearing on the quad while towing the gamecart next season. Advantage camoflage would be out of place on a £12,000.00 let day!!
  12. Theirs all seem a little more compact than the one I had. That was almost half an inch across, great in the almost dark, calling in rafts of wigeon with my grandfather's whistle made from 4 bore cases. Punt gunners used to put a lump of mud on the end of the barrel to take aim! Faxed Target Sports for some details anyway.
  13. Soldiers are supposed to be fit, you know!!!! What size is 4XLG? Does it refer to chest size, inside leg, waist size or something else? Some of our beaters have bought army surplus goretex trousers and have ended up waxing them. I bought one of the first Goretex jackets in 1986. I saw them at the Game Fair the year before and, being impressed by the demonstration with barbed wire, I promised myself one. For the first year it was marvelous. By the time it was 2 years old, a net would have kept out as much rain. I have looked all sorts of breathable coats since. If they're only going to last a couple of years, they're mostly too expensive. The Swandri coats from http://www.denewear.co.uk are waterproof even though they are made of wool, but too warm for the summer. I had a 4XLG size. If they get soaked (you won't), they take ages to dry out. I considered a Sport Chief ( http://www.sportchief.com/english/intro.html ) coat but people told me they will leak if you lean on something when wet. They certainly look warm. I have gone for a Deerhunter Ram ( http://www.deerhunter.dk/p169.asp ) coat for just under £130 from the Sportsman Gun Center at Warden Hill, between Dorchester and Evershot. I had intended to get the Deerhunter Montana but they were a bit shorter, allthough probably warmer. Haven't been out in a real downpour with it yet. Perhaps other people here can tell me what to expect. Ive just got a PVC camo rain suit from http://www.quality-camo.co.uk to carry for emergency used. The trousers are massive but the coat could do with being larger to go over other coats. I wanted a really lightweight nylon suit, like the ones that used to be in the Ralph Grant ads in the Shooting Times, but can't find one. Quality Cammo are trying for me. When I used to push-bike to flight on the foreshore, I just used to wear brown/green jumpers and put on a waterproof if it rained. Motor cars have changed all that. You need to warm up quick after getting out. Perhaps the lower circulation as you get older is the problem, or is it less adrenalin rush once the exuberance of youth has gone? The stuff from Wearite is priced right. They have no website but you can get a catalogue if you write to them at Park View Works, 257 West Green Road, London, N15 5EG. I know several beaters who have, and like, their coats. They now do a couple of cammo coats for £95.00. They have a shop at 237 Royal College Street, London NW1 (9.30 am to 6.00 pm Monday to Saturday). You can order a catalogue by fax on 0208 809 2912. Let us know what you think of them if you buy something. I had a coat from them about 20 years ago and they are no more expensive now, £60.00. It was just as waterproof as the Gortex but a little less breathable. Attleburgh Accessories ( http://www.attacc.com ) do a breathable coat up to 4XL but it is up over £200.00. Their catalogue is well worth looking at, but they are on holiday until next week. These people ( http://www.sharkgroup.co.uk/country_index.html ) seem to have some good stuff but can't find the prices.
  14. Just sold my 42 inch 4 bore. Stuff the non-toxic loads. No lead in your pencil is no good.
  15. Forget the barrel length arguement and talk about gun fitting. If the gun fits and suits you, you will kill at all ranges with it. I shoot better at any range with my 25 1/2 inch Mod 23 s/s proofed for 1 7/8 oz than I ever did with the 32 inch Midland s/s proofed for 1 1/2 oz. Mainly because the stock is a little longer, I think. Longer barrels will tend to shoot low, especially if the stock is a little short, like they usually are on wildfowling guns to allow for extra clothing. Holding the forend, like a lot of people do, instead of the barrels, will also cause you to shoot low. If the gun fits you properly, kick should be no problem either. I think this incident I witnessed in a gun shop sums it up. A fairly newcomer to shooting was looking through the range of guns in the racks and asked the chap behind the counter which was the best one to buy. "It doesn't matter. They're all better than you are." Was the reply.
  16. But what about the barrel weight ie. tube thickness?
  17. Should have posted this here in the first place. Does anyone know of a plastic case that will work in an Ithaca Mod 37. They won't eject from mine. For that reason, it hardly ever gets used, unless the Winchester Mod 23 has gone wrong again.
  18. Sorry if this is slighly off topic! I have an Ithaca Mod 37 that will only work properly with paper cases. Does anybody know of a plastic cartridge that will work in them?
  19. Haven't seen any National Grid pylons fall over yet, but it could happen!!!
  20. If they have got this organized properly, they will be on legal aid and the taxpayer will be financing the case, albeit with a lawyer chosen by the Countryside Alliance.
  21. My father and his family used to tether 2 call ducks about 20 yards apart in the dark so that they would quack to each other and give wild flocks the false confidence to swim nearer the shore for a potshot. The call ducks were a spanish type, I believe. The call ducks although white, were occassionally shot by other pothunters creeping about in the dark. This practice is probably what the legislation is aimed at.
  22. You should be able to zero at any magnification. The problem you have to avoid is called parallax. Put the scope completely out of focus so that all except the cross hairs is blurred. Adjust the eypiece to get the cross hairs as sharp as possible, then focus the scope on a distant object. Move your eye up and down. The cross hairs should stay on the same place on the object. The higher the magnification, the more pronounced any movement will be. Once you have achieved this, you should be able to zero the scope at any magnification.
  23. This looks like the old Singlepoint idea. Light is gathered and projected down the rib to your eye. They are especially helpful if you shoot from the right shoulder but your left eye is the stronger one. You shoot with both eyes open and the red dot is superimposed on what you are looking at with both eyes. I had a big one araldited onto my rib for a long time until it came loose and was lost. They definitely help, especially in failing light. Make sure it is correctly aligned with the barrel and that only one eye gets the red dot!! I wouldn't hesitate in getting another one. How much are these days?
  24. This is the reply I got. Not much I can tell them really!!! My original letter to the JNCC is at the bottom of this post. Dear Jim Many thanks for your e-mail. I have passed this straight to the English Nature licensing team for response and follow-up. They will be in touch with you for more information so that they can also follow this up locally. Best wishes, Helen *********************************************** Dr. Helen Baker Ornithological Advisor JNCC Monkstone House City Road Peterborough PE1 1JY Switchboard: 01733-562626 Direct line: 01733-866816 "Some people that I have met on a discussion forum on the Internet, say they have been asked by the local police to shoot geese (Canada Geese, I presume) on certain ponds local to built up areas using their rifles. I put forward the suggestion that the police were not empowered to do this as I thought it was unlawful to kill any species of wildfowl with a solid projectile under the 1954 Protection of bird act. Has this been repealed and if so what now is the situation regarding this practice?"
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