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wj939

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  1. With a confident bold dog, I prefer to maintain strict discipline. Never have a grey area, steadiness is as important as drive in a shooting environment. Given his age, and a lot of experiences for a young dog, he’s testing his boundaries to see what he can get away with. With a softer dog, I’m happy to go two steps forward one step back, buzz them up in a pen to build confidence, but I can’t say I deliberately let them chase, especially rabbits. If you decide you want to let him loose a bit, I recommend quail or pheasants. You shouldn’t worry about the drive right now, he’s still young it will develop as he gains game sense. Give him a refresher on recall, do some basics again to reinforce it. And remember, you have to have bad days to have good days!
  2. If he’s teaching line work for straight out runs and wants the dog to hold its mark, then yes, it makes some sense in an open environment over long outruns. Possible the client has misunderstood, possible the trainer just thinks a cocker should use its eyes to see retrieves, I can’t imagine he’s won much if that’s the case....
  3. wj939

    Beretta stock

    Looking for a sporting stock to fit a beretta 68 series, specifically a 682Gold E.
  4. I see your point Lloyd, maybe I didn’t make mine very well and I agree there are things to look out for when being demo’d any part trained dog. Speaking from experience; I’ve taken on part trained dogs and had a similar experience regarding gun shyness. I know this dog was never shy before, but a change of circumstances, new handler and a change of style put too much pressure on her too soon. After plenty of careful exposure she’s a pleasure to shoot over now and I decided to keep her myself. Equally, I do a fair bit of training with the FT boys, I’ve also experienced the situation whereby I’ve taken on dogs at 6-9 months that don’t appear to be showing the same style as their siblings only to discover that a different handler and more one on one work has brought more out of them than thought possible. The point being, some mature later and benefit from a change of scenery. To the OP, before purchasing any part trained dog, most reputable trainers will allow you a few days with the dog to see if it works out for handler and canine. There are a number of trainers out there specifically working to meet the requirements you have, labs and spaniels brought on to a decent level for folks that don’t have time to train their own from pups. Expect to pay a minimum of £1500 for a young part trained lab (my part trained is handles well onto blinds, shot over and steady to sit and has picked warm game) for fully trained you’d add runners and complex retrieves to that- expect to pay £2,000+ for fully trained and with proper experience.
  5. Most field trial lads will keep many dogs and sell those that don’t make the grade or are retiring. That’s the name of the game, why would they sell something they feel can be successful? A dog trained to FT standard is nothing to be worried about for 99% of shooters.
  6. I thought I was something else making them blind? Least that’s what I was told.... Not every dog can be a great dog in anyone’s hands, often it’s said ‘I’m the limitation for the dog’ whilst it isn’t untrue, don’t believe with enough input and training it’s impossible to end up with a poor quality gun dog for the field. Equally, I can give Will Clulee, Lee Cooper or any other spaniel man 100 spaniels and they won’t give me 100 champions, genetics are just probability, not certainty. So therefore the early advice was the best so far; ‘assume at best an average dog in a an average novice’s hands and consider the worst case scenario’ you’ll be living with it for 10+ years... It’s a bell curve, some novices will get lucky and train once in a lifetime quality, some experts will still churn out rubbish across all major breeds. The safe bet is go down the middle and go for a lab. At best, you’ll end up with a once in a lifetime dog, at worst you’ll end up with a dog significantly easier to live and shoot with than the worst in cockers or springers. It sounds you’re mainly pigeon shooting, I’ve got a cocker who’s niche is pigeon shooting from a hide, I do not expect to ever have another quite so adept at it, most are hunting machines. I’ve had labs do this more or less out of the box, it can be done with other breeds, sure, but any sensible gun dog trainer would recommend to you a Labrador based on your requirements, and probability of an average or above dog being produced. Best of luck!
  7. Try sending her verbally as soon as the dummy hits the ground. Making her wait too long can encourage stickiness, particularly if you’ve been working on steadiness. In addition I suspect she’s using visual clues from you to be released. Many handlers don’t realise they are doing this and so are surprised their dog won’t perform their outrun if they can’t see their handlers suggestions. This can even be as slight as your outstretched arm moving as you line the dog up and cast out. Practise simple retrieves and keep your hands in your pockets and send her, it’ll boost her confidence and provided your steadiness work has solid foundations, neither should result in unsteadiness if done correctly.
  8. The general consensus in Training circles is that springers are slightly easier to train. This is in part, down to the mental capacity of cockers, whilst physically capable to compete with springers, it’s common they lack that mental ‘toughness’. You’ll often hear the saying a cocker will question you before doing, where as a Springer just does- cockers require the handler to have more patience and in my opinion, to be a little more on the button. Cockers are more exciting for me, that’s why I have those, but admittedly, I see a lot more springers that are what I’d call handleable dogs at an average to good standard than I do cockers, which seem more fashionable these days. The answer is simply to pick which you’ll prefer to live with, most gundogs are a pet the other 300 days a year...
  9. The advertised speed is so inconsistent it’s not worth considering. If I send 10 shells to be tested, and I get ten different results back, I or any manufacturer can advertise the average as I see fit. Put a cartridge that’s been out in the garage, cold or damp across a chronograph vs. one of the same brand that’s been kept in warm and dry conditions, then you’ll see a variance but not until you’re at a very high standard of shooting. There was a chap on here who went to great lengths to test dozens maybe hundreds of shells against their advertised speed, long story short, don’t believe what you read.... Speed varies so much shell to shell, even batch to batch forget it and just pick a shell that is regularly stocked by your local shop that is the load/shot size you want. Shooting is a very simple sport that’s very easily complicated. Until you’re consistently posting the same scores or ratios of shots to kills, don’t look at your kit for marginal improvements, focus on technique and practise. Enjoy!
  10. Does it have a red lining? The dark brown tweed may have red in it also?
  11. Top bloke- always happy to do a deal- personal service British made and run- whats not to like? Ive been using George for over two years and never had a problem. Probably saved the equivalent of £2000 by using him over Hull or RC. Ordered a pallet on a Thursday was on my doorstep Monday morning, easier than going to a dealer that never has what I want, or the required quantity. Ive patterned a lot of shells and I have found some better than others and that changes gun to gun, but in my gun georges Hi-speed 32gm 4.5s are as good as any Ive used.
  12. Accompany someone with a good solid lab into the area and see how it performs. After one or two you should have a decent idea of if the dog is struggling or not, I wouldn't think a strong lab would get into trouble immediately.
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