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wj939

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Everything posted by wj939

  1. Fair comment- FT lines are not all bad, certainly they've done some good in the cocker world- being a cocker man I am glad we are not seeing the dogs of 30 years ago. It just struck me that a lab is the tool for the job described. But alas a lab is the tool for many of the jobs my spaniels do- and I don't particularly want one either. Givendale lines in Ireland had a write up in the press a few years ago describing the challenge of shifting back to more traditional form and confirmation. I've seen many breeders with bigger springers, probably just a case of contacting enough folks. All the best!
  2. It's interesting to hear about big dogs not shying out of cover and smashing brambles. My own experience is that a dog with real drive will do this regardless of size or mass and the smaller ones work their way under the cover more efficiently. I personally agree with WGD- what advantage does a springer that size offer?
  3. It's not just following the clay cartridge route- it's a shift in general to shooting higher and higher birds, this is mirrored in the equipment we are using- long guns tight chokes and higher and higher being the challenge- the pigeon market for cartridges isn't huge or as valuable as others to the manufacturers- it's about a cut price cartridge with a 28-32 gram load and keeping a low number of options- when you consider plastic and fibre, 5,6 and 7 shot that's 6 runs for a manufacturer per cartridge weight and assume there is at least 3 weights for a typical pigeon shell -28,30,32. The cheaper option rightly or wrongly is for them to narrow that to the most popular 6's- and if you want to shoot something smaller, generally speaking 28grams is suitable and therefore the 'average' man buys a clay shell that's cheaper.
  4. Givendale and newflame spaniels both specialise in big old fashioned springers.
  5. And at what level of consistency do they stop being rouge pellets? Or at what point do they start? All a matter of perspective as to what works- there are too many variables for your calculations to be accurate. Lethality in the absence of applied test rules can only be measured subjectively, that being said no one here is arguing that a larger pellet holds more energy over a longer distance- so in summary, if I do my bit and put pellets on target- by 'luck' or judgment, I am more lethal over a greater range of quarry and distances than with a smaller pellet. Perhaps it is not the kinetic energy value required to kill a pigeon that should be the focus but questioning how accurate the suggested choke to pattern relationship is- certainly in my chosen equipment my pattern plates have put more than enough 4.5's and 5.5's in a circle to dispatch what was behind them. Also worth noting that most of you will have used 5's at some time or another that are really a 4.5UK 2.9mm, so it's not that odd a shell in reality.....
  6. Isn't all shotgun shooting seemingly random strikes?
  7. And what ratio of pattern vs energy are you applying? I would assume all can agree power is significantly more important at ranges beyond where a smaller pellet loses the power- considering all angle of penetration. Given a lack of actual scientific study, all of this is subjective ( although there is a US study into bird shot penetration in ballistic jelly) and therefore I invite you all to give it a try in the field, where you too may get consistently lucky with the rouge pellet strike.
  8. There isn't a lot of science here, but shooting is a simple sport far too easily complicated. Never one to miss an opportunity the point George makes if we analyse this is pretty accurate- folks can't guess range accurately. Most folks shooting consistently at 40+ yards will use bigger shot sizes. Doesn't mean it can't be done with smaller shot, but it does not make it easier, that is a fact. I'll second the use of 32g 4.5s- I use them all year round and have done for two years now. I don't hit the close ones any harder or eat any less of them- but the long ones certainly are cleaner kills. George will have a following for those shells soon.....
  9. On the Mk60 and Mk70 range the gamescene was on the game model and scroll on sporters. I'm not sure if they do a game model(with game scene) since bringing out the 'universal'.
  10. This rule makes me laugh- do they think we get up in the middle of the night to let the dog know we are still at home?
  11. So you didn't read the bit about where I said "I did not take much notice admittedly"? There is some logic to the hypothesis but I doubt any real difference in practise and almost certainly too many variables to test. I've shot a 692- can you tell me why you think it is far superior? The balanced view I offered was that I, in my opinion, didn't think the additional cost is justified, not that it's a bad gun and not worth buying. Again the build quality comment, your average man might not notice, one doing 10,000+ a year will.
  12. On the basis of owning the Gold E and having looked at a 692 for a while- there just isn't enough in it to justify the additional expense of a 692 unless you prefer the handling! The 692 to me was quite noticeably different. The top lever is also annoying- why rubberised plastic? The 692's had a few niggles and the quality of new beretta's is not as high as years gone by, unless you are doing many thousand a year- you won't notice. I did not take a lot of notice admittedly, but a mate of mine works in one of the major gun shops and apparently if you are shooting fibre the very wide barrels of the new range of beretta's is detrimental to pattern quality. For little over the £1k mark you can pick up a mint 682.
  13. His 32gram Hi-speed 4 1/2's are bloody lethal on the tall stuff.
  14. I had a really good look at the f16's and to be honest, I think I would have been disappointed it's not on par with the F3. But then again, do we honestly think it could be as good for less? Still a good gun at that price point, but at the same time look for a decent S/h F3 if you want a Blaser......
  15. It is a new trigger according to Blaser...... It's quite a different gun if you compare side by side.
  16. Probably a bit excitable and doesn't really want to give it up? Place boards could help with this as he'll learn to sit infront of you right by your feet
  17. I guarantee you chase after the dog as soon as it bolts it hears you coming and stops, might need to keep going until he turns or what have you but the point is made, you get him before he comes back and take him back to where you started. Many trainers use this or an adaptation of this. If you can't do that he was too far away in the first place before you started. You won't need to do it much before he understands. There is no magic cure, each dog is different as is the success of each method, the book above by Pippa Matheson is good, but in my mind relies on the gambling effect too much. Over a period of time I also think the reward of game and game scent outweighs anything you can offer. I've found her suggestions more appropriate for a 'softer' dog.
  18. Yes, when you get him charge him down, grab him by the scruff and repeat your recall whistle and drag him back to roughly where you first called him from repeating all the way.
  19. Not likely in the nature rather more likely the nurture. BigBird is right, stick to that for a while and chase it down if needed, as long as you end up going to the dog rather than him coming back, it'll sink in. Practise the recall with your back to him, when he can't see your body language, is he sharp to come back? Also, don't Base your recall training on sitting him up, walking away and calling him in, the dog wants to come back to you its eager in that scenario, it's one people often show me and they are impressed they got 100yards away but in reality that's not the same as a recall at 10m when he's got something more interesting to focus on. Back to basics on the recall. Good luck.
  20. I think you might struggle beating with a beagle, they are a lot more nose keen than terriers, so something like a cover crop where it could follow a run very quickly would be challenging, they are very nice dogs as companions and to hunt over for ground game. Hounds in full cry is something special. I wouldn't of been able to beat with any of the ones I've experience with. That being said I've seen all sorts down the years that's performed well in the line- lurches, collies, terriers some dogs take to certain activities well.
  21. 3/4 and full. Plus is invector plus barrel. (Slightly over bored) Mk38 was originally a trap gun so, that would be standard choking. Browning choke stamps are not the easiest to decipher and don't follow the same logic as other makers.
  22. Use burns alert myself, there is a tax exemption for certain working dog foods. Works out quite a bit cheaper over burns original. Decent quality and the support should you need it is first class.
  23. Sounds like he's realised his place in the pack. Wonder if he will challenge again as the pointer gets older and fades.... Interesting to see what happens over a retrieve between the pair, possessiveness might kick it off again. Good luck to him, no one wants their dogs punching holes in each other.
  24. Italian shot, Italian sizing. Not many carts actually have the right English size on them, have a measure. I almost always assume Italian size unless it's stamped uk 5 or the metric size.
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