ZG47

Blast effect (on you) from the muzzle brake, will be the biggest potential detriment to accuracy.

Someone on here did but up a scanned version of the manual, maybe three years back. Type double auto into the search box and you should locate that thread easily enough.

The only significant difference between the two, is that the bolt shroud on the Vanguard comes out a bit more on the left side, to stop any gases or bits of brass getting into your eye if a primer is pierced or a case lets go.

Been using a Chrony F1 for a least twice as long. Only problem has been the nut behind the butt. They also give you excellent instructions. The only other people who do that are Oehler!

Send an email to S & B asking what they will charge you to do it.

CZ 452 American model grooves are 3/8" (9.5mm) as opposed to the standard 11mm adopted for the Brno Model 2 in the late 1950s and continued with the CZ 452. The catch however, is that the American model grooves are cut with a different angle cutter from the U.S. standard. This is why Sportsmatch offer a different ring-mount to suit CZ 452 American receivers.

The missus? ... if she finds out!

I would go with that advice. Timber can absorb moisture up to 100x faster through the end grain than the face so ... better just to increase the clearance than fight a potentially losing battle. Only way to stop the moisture getting in is to dip the timber in glycol, as on the old Parker Hale stocks made by Sile. Not worth the trouble when figgy presents such a simple solution.

Primer tends to have enough force to send the bullet into the rifling, by itself, so ... pretty obvious that the priming compound did not go off. Could be firing pin damage but more likely that the lubricant inside the bolt has dried out. I doubt that the striker spring would have lost much tension at this early stage of the rifle's life. I suggest that you strip down the bolt, degrease it, clean it and put it back together with a wee bit of Ballistol to keep everything moving and rust free

Like the other guys said ... get a Picatinny rail fitted!

White spirit is a trade name registered by Shell for a high grade of kerosene, also known as Stoddard's Solvent and Mobil Pegasol 3040 (Mobil Pegasol AA is unleaded petrol i.e. Coleman Fuel). White spirit is the correct grade of kerosene for kerosene camp stoves and for hurricane lanterns (as opposed to lighting fuel kerosene sold by hardware stores, which burns less efficiently and creates more soot). White spirit is also a paint solvent. White spirits is a colloquial name for Coleman Fuel, aka Mobil Pegasol AA, Shellite, Mobilite, Britolite, etc. YOU NEED TO BE CAREFUL TO AVOID CONFUSION BETWEEN THE TWO PRODUCTS. Some hardware/paint stores have gotten to the stage where they will not have anything to do with either product (except perhaps, when selling to trusted tradespeople) due to casual customers who neither read instructions nor listen to what they have been told and who have come to grief!

Sportsmatch introduced some torch mounts a wee while back. I haven't used one but anything those guys make is always worth a look.

Sometimes the wrong screws are packed with the bases and if a young guy on the shop floor is told to fir the bases, you can get that problem. I had to file down some Weaver screws once for a Winchester Model 70 because there were 4 receiver bridge screws in the bag instead of two for the bridge and two for the receiver ring. I ran a club range for 14 years and you could always tell when the job was done by a young fella at NZ Hunting & Fishing (the big franchise outfit in our country, which is often held to be better on the fishing than the hunting side). Screws were never loctited, steel ring mounts were never degreased and if the screws weren't obviously loose, a few hunting rounds, including once, some 7x61 in an old Schultz and Larsen fitted with a new scope and rings, would have things flapping in the breeze pretty quickly! As I said earlier, lesson learned. I like that group by the way. You seem to have done well with your purchase.

Learning experience. You will have plenty more of them.

T series, Grand Slam, Super Slam and current tactical scopes all have Micro-Trac adjustments but even the Classic series have very good adjustments.

Weaver made in Japan is very good to excellent. The K and V series, which created the 1" tube standard, have been rebranded as Classic. The Grand Slam, Super Slam, etc are newer ranges brought out in the last decade and a half. The older steel scopes made in the U.S.A are definitely showing their age. I cannot comment on the Philippines made scopes such as Kaspa and 40/44, except to say that they are listed below the Classic scopes and are probably more akin to Bushnell Banner scopes.

Do you remove all solvent/oil from the chamber and leade before shooting? Do you also wipe oil/solvent out of the magazine and off the feed ramp?

Rapid 23 used with Rapid 13/4 staples for attaching paper and card targets to container board, corflute or plywood backers and Rapid 13/6 staples for attaching corflute board, etc. to plywood or timber). NB There is a lighter and cheaper plastic model in the Rapid range if you wish/need to save weight and/or cost. I base my assertions on five and a half years as a commercial stationer, more years as a carpenter, twenty nine years as a competitive shooter and fourteen years running a live firing range complex for my previous club. The T50 is too heavy for this work and will result in broken fingernails and stabbing of hands/fingers whilst removing old staples. If you already have a heavy gun it makes economic sense to use it but if buying a new tacker for the range, get the lighter model which uses the thinner gauge, easier to remove staples. Drawing pins are a hazard when used to attach targets. They do fall off on to the ground and I have come to the point where I will eject the next offender from the Range, for breach of safety (and basic common sense). The lightweight Rapid tackers and 13/4 staples have been favourites of school teachers for over thirty years because they are convenient and far safer than using drawing pins.

Beautiful gun. Did you actually knock anything down OR ... Have you spent all day drooling?

Beautiful gun. Thanks for showing. I hate to imagine how many hours you put into it.

Sounds like a very good deal, mate. Almost makes me wish that I lived that close to them BUT .... I prefer the relative warmth of our lower latitudes.

Sounds like a warm barrel touching the stock. When a steel tube heats up, it lengthens. If you machine a barrel with taper to the muzzle and give it a minimum of free floating, lengthening of the barrel due to combustion heat can result in sideways pressure on the stock. That is why Paul Mauser changed from tapered barrels to stepped barrels and left a bit of longitudinal clearance in the stock at each point where the barrel diameter stepped down. Simple physics.

Get the parallax reset to 75yards on your Schmidt and Bender 6x. That will bring your close focus distance down to 15 or 16 meters. This is a remedy that we have been using locally for at least two decades (and possibly a lot longer). If you do it to one of your 8x scopes the distance might be closer to 20 meters.

Spec-tech industries do the Ruger centrefire ones and I have a suspicion that they moved onto 77/22 triggers a while back. You could also check Timney to see if they are doing 77/22 triggers now. The Sinclair International website is, however, probably the best way to find out if aftermarket Ruger 77/22 triggers are available off the shelf.

My understanding is that there may have been some issues resulting from the move and initial worker unfamiliarity but that Marlin rifles are now being made to tighter tolerances than before the Remington purchase. It is also my understanding that Remington has reversed a 1970s' economy move to forged cartridge lifters for the 336 series rifles, going back to machined lifters. Do not forget that the Marlin is an ideal rifle for peep backsights. You can fit a Williams, Lyman, Skinner, etc hunting backsight and with a 3/8" rail you could fit pretty much any low profile target backsight. The Rossi rifles can be a lot of fun and use a very strong action but it is worth having the whole picture and ... do not forget that the Marlin can be easily field stripped for basic maintenance and cleaning from the breech whereas the Rossi is a gunsmith job. Also, the Marlin 1894 was deliberately designed to keep snow, ice, mud, slush, dust and dirt out of the workings when the action is closed. NB The only grizzle I have with the current Marlin range is that they have yet to bring back the Model 7000 self-loader, the Squirrel rifle and its big brother, the Summer Biathlon rifle, which is a great lightweight positional rifle for teenagers and small women (and a useful rabbit rifle for same). Have fun whatever you buy.