MuPPeT_ON_TouR

They can do it quicker, I dragged it out because I was unsure about taking their solution... Phone them, I reckon if you get it down to them on a Friday you will get it back in 1 week.

So after a couple of week I finally have my gun back. GMK have cleaned the knuckle as an act of good will on their behalf I'm still a bit ****** off that that they maintain that plate flaking off mine and a couple of other owners of the SP1 guns on this forum is our fault and due to lack of lubrication. Havin' said all that I am very pleased at the results, these pics were taken after shooting 150 carts on Friday and after a clean so looks like the fix has done it's job and should hold. KNUCKLE AREA FORE END (Not nearly as much wear as others and not as deep) FORE END/KNUCKLE GAP (Not loose after material was removed) If you have plating flaking off get it to GMK I can't see anything wrong with the work they have done.

I've been... Nothin' wrong with it, bit of an off road course to get to it but a very good ground... Also sells good bacon rolls so gets a big +1 from me.

You can get CCL gun stock oil to finish off a new stock, what I'm on about is their conditioning oil for pre oiled/finished stocks. "This Preparation has been specially blended by Clive C. Lemon - Gun Maker to restore the sheen to existing oil finishes or to add an extra shine to the surface of the traditional hand rubbed oil finish." "New stocks oil finished in the traditional way can be improved still further by an application of this product to give a beautiful surface sheen to the wood. This oil is specially recommended for use after oil finishing with CCL Traditional Gunstock Oil Finishing Kit" It says to give it one or two coats over a season. So YES, use the conditioning oil to top up the thin coat Beretta do in the first place. I'm on my second coat and the dry sort of light areas near the rubber butt pad have gone and the inside of the fore end almost looks as nice as the outside.. Yes the wood used on the stock on the SP1 is very basic, but the conditioning oil has improved the look of the wood, sealed and protected it, I also believe it will help reduce water marks when it rains, making them easier to wipe off and not leave marks.. I will stick it in the rain once I have done and find out. CCL conditioning oil, as recommended by the workshop guy at GMK.

I have that one on watch but because it's Blue and Says Beretta.... stoopid folk pay stoooopid money.

I have an SP1,, What allen key will do.. The 12" one or the shorter one? both are 6mm http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hexagon-Allen-Key-Wrench-Tee-Handle-6mm-Ball-Ended-/160912829574?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item257726ec86 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bondhus-Hexagon-Hex-Allen-Key-T-Handle-XL-300mm-12-Extra-Long-3mm-4mm-5mm-8mm-/400474572403?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&var=&hash=item5d3e250673 Thanks.

I've just got My SP1 back from GMK and while it was down for repair I spoke to the workshop and in particular a very nice man called Andy, I took the opportunity to pick his brains..... You need CCL Gunstock Conditioning Oil Follow the instructions, no need to remove the old finish just add the new stuff. You just need 24 hours or so for this oil to dry. Don't get it on the checkering! You can also treat the inside of the fore end, like mine you will probably find it very dry inside and unprotected. The oil will condition the wood, protect/seal it and bring out a nice shine. I'm writing this as I wait for my second coat to dry, I'm going to do 1 coat every few days till I have 5 or six applications/coats.

If you use the [url........ share link the P Bucket gives you it will display the pic and not the link. It is a very nice gun.

Although my SP1 feels OK for me in so much as I'm not sure what wrong would feel like. Does anybody know someplace near me to get fitted or can they recommend I get it done at all. I can't afford to adjust my stock with new combs and wood stock extension work right now but am aware there are differing thicknesses of OEM butt pads and rubber comb bits for those who bruise like a peach I could use for now.

Some great comments and thoughts, of course it would have been better had you read the thread first though. "I think to suggest its falling to bits is overstating the case a bit" My opening line reads "A slight exaggeration but after only 350 shots fired and 4 outings I was a bit disappointed to see this on my 1 year old SP1" it was sort of sarcasm, you must have missed it. "I have a 12g SP1 and recently bought a 20g SP1. It has the same rub marks" Are you on about rub marks/wear and tear that I and everybody else expects to see... or plating flaking off the gun after next to no use? "Chill, it's a slight mark" Plating flaking off is a slight mark and my concerns about it spreading to where it can be seen are without merit and I should not have seeked advice from this forum and GMK? "You don't seem so bothered about the chunk you knocked out of the barrels" This one gets to me as I'm not sure how you know what bothers me but after you read this post I'm sure you will be more clued up. "Or maybe you are bothered and want to get a new gun out of GMK" You must have missed the fact that the only time I wanted a new gun is when they said it will take 6-9 months to get MINE back You probably didn't read this either... "it is a really small ding, almost unnoticeable unless it is dirty" "Only good news is I will get it back soon" To sum up for you. "bothered about the chunk you knocked out of the barrels"..."I think to suggest its falling to bits is overstating the case a bit"... Not sure you even read your own post in the end. So just to recap for you Plate Flake Problem? 6-9 month ***! Me blame warranty no, not happy.

It looks like flaking plating is an un-documented feature on the SP1, and is probably normal. I always expected to see wear marks, shinny metal where it has rubbed I just didn't expect to see the finish flaking off the gun. I can't understand then why when I sent pics down to GMK and simply asked what was wrong they told me to send the gun down straight away as they could sort it. Turns out they can't sort it so they then blamed me for the problem. Some simple assurance to say this was nothing to worry about and the rest of the plating would not be effected would have been enough for me.

So after more talks with the gun shop today it appears and makes perfect sense to me that the plating is of **** quality and is too bloody thin to cope with the pressure of the joint, please look at original pic to see how thin the plating is. As pointed out by utectok(thank you) this needs to be a tight joint. Rather than anything to do with lack of lube or ninja bricks this to me looks exactly like crushed thin plating that has lifted off the base metal.. ANYBODY KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT PLATING AND CAN HELP???

Any chance of some pics? Might help my case and yours of others have the same faults.

Do they have any plating on the receiver? If getting rid of it on the knuckle will sort it, without the risk of it flaking at the exposed edge then I have no problem.

If I could with out losing too much.. I bloody would.. Trouble is I wouldn't go near it if I seen the plating in that condition.