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jking

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  1. Can't find anything on YouTube. Only info for the B25 Thanks, I'll see what I can find to do the job
  2. Hi, Can anyone tell me how to remove the Forend wood from a B125. It retains the Forend wood, similar to a B25, but without the obvious screw through the side. I can see a slotted screw underneath the Forend latch, but the latch holds opens at an angle which blocks proper access to the screw - don't want to risk damaging the screw if there is a way to make life easier. Thanks
  3. Hi, I'm after a Schoffel Blenheim tweed cap in size 59 or 60 if anyone has one they would like to sell? Thanks
  4. You're right they do look like they're made from the same tweed....thanks for that. I can't find any info on Holden, that company they were made by. I don't think they are likely to be waterproof?
  5. Very true.....I have actually found a matching jacket available to buy - but what I really want is waterproof breeks. So I was wondering if it's worth me buying the jacket now in the hope of one day finding the breeks available to buy as well.
  6. Hi, Can anybody name this Musto Tweed? I'm guessing it's from a few years back, but I'm trying to establish if they ever made waterproof breeks from this tweed and struggling to find any info after trawling Google images. Thanks
  7. That's great, thanks very much for the advice. I'll get a couple of coats of oil on the stock first and let them dry for a couple of weeks before I polish it up
  8. What would you use to apply the rottenstone when just using the powder dry to burnish? A soft cloth or felt maybe?
  9. I got round to giving the rottenstone a go. I bought some felt to apply it with. A decent coverage of oil to lubricate and a bit of the powder sprinkled over the stock and it has worked a treat to remove the scratches and provide a nice flat, even finish. Now I just need to Palm in some oil to bring the shine back. Thanks for your help
  10. I've ordered some rottenstone so will give it a go next week. It's actually done both. Where I have not gone with the grain it has left swirl marks, and it also generally dulled the finish. I palmed in a drop of oil and it improved it massively, but I can still see those swirl marks in certain light so I'd rather polish them out before adding any more layers of oil
  11. Good point, thanks. I used 0000 grade, but will give it a go keeping with the grain and see how it looks. Thanks, will do
  12. So that's what I used and the wire wool caused the scratches.....I had plenty of oil on the stock as well Thanks I'll take a look online
  13. Hi, What do you guys use to polish scratches out of your oil finished stock? I needed to knock back a bit of oiled finish which had gone a bit rough after steaming a dent out. I used the finest grade of wire wool and stock oil but I'm still left with swirl marks. Any suggestions? Cheers
  14. Thanks for the reply. Ok that's a shame then, looks like I'll need to get a new pad and grind it down sub flush as I need it to be shorter than the existing pad. At least that way I can grind it down off the stock as I don't fancy risking damaging my stock! Thanks for your help
  15. What I'm getting at is that I don't want to fit a new pad and grind it to the stock profile - I'd like to know if the existing pad can be modified or not?
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