CharlesP

I'm following this thread with great interest and, indeed, disappointment. If you bought these guns as a pair it is (as the shootist has said above) astonishing that different trigger mechanisms are fitted. If a different one was fitted at a later date to cure, say, a failure to fire the second barrel that's just as appalling unless it was done after comprehensive consultation, and even then I would expect both guns to be similarly modified as there's an implication that the original mechanism wasn't fit for purpose. If you didn't know about this difference it would be unreasonable for Longthorne's to claim that you're out of time on any warranty claim as the internal parts of the gun are not visible to the user. That "hairline crack" doesn't look like what I would call a hairline crack it looks like a plain old broken stock, and shouldn't have happened, assuming you haven't been using the gun as a club. The grain there looks a bit contrary! The fore end wood shouldn't have opened up like that. It shouldn't rattle. Is the inner surface untreated? That could perhaps explain a differential expansion as moisture in the air is taken up by the inner surface but not by the finished outer. I have a problem with a front door caused by such a phenomenon. I look forward to the video, and I sincerely hope that Messrs Longthorne do the right thing by you. I can't afford a Longthorne gun, I haven't been attracted to them anyway, but this thread together with other comments would kill any desire to do so.

https://www.wwgreener.com/shop.html Graham Greener still sells the book online... The rest of the Greener web site is interesting, too!

Funnily enough I asked this question of the young lady who came round to inspect my security arrangements. She is employed by Dorset Police Firearms Licensing team. She was absolutely adamant that your Firearms / Shotgun Certificate shouldn't be posted to anyone at all, unless it's back to the police for some reason. Fine to send a copy to demonstrate that you have got the right id etc.

I strongly suspect that it's time to consult a gunsmith. Not a gun shop, not a mate who fired a rifle when he was in the cadets, and not a chum who is a motor fitter. A proper qualified gunsmith. If you're planning to use this gun then it should have someone of genuine competence examine it, look closely at the action, very closely at the bores, determine if the thing is in proof, are the barrels bulged or dented or rivelled, is the rib loose, and all manner of other matters. There is a video on the internet of an elderly gentleman walloping the bejasus out of a shotgun to tighten it, on no account should anyone attempt to do this. Your questions about tightening the action, mending the stock, and polishing the action etc lead me to suspect that with all due respect you are not really the person to carry out the work. The inclusion of a Do-it-Yourself book on gunsmithing in your photographs confirms it.

Typical. Let the children play with your shotgun when you've left your dremel tool lying about....

Isn't there a LOP adjustment on an F3 trigger? Just a thought...

My F3 has had thousands of cartridges through it, and is pretty much looking like the day I bought it. Apart, that is, from self-inflicted marks such as tiny dings on the stock. I see quite a few locally, and the vast majority are fine.

Have you tried Ian Mulliner on 01258 840840 ?

Any photos of the shocking finish, Bungle?

I share the astonishment of many on here. I have no idea if there's anywhere in Dorset that will simply hand over a gun and let someone wander off with it if they have no certificate. Certainly the largest ground won't even let you have a counter without a shotgun certificate, nor will they sell you any cartridges.

Here's my 1892 Greener Facile Princeps - ie "Easily First" or "Acknowledged Leader". It's been in my hands since 1979. Fine bored, action rejointed, rebrowned (I suspect) by Powell's it was sent to auction. I have shot pheasants, partridges, hare, rabbits and pigeons with it and it has been carefully cleaned and oiled sparingly after each outing. You can see it was proofed at .740", and the bore measurements are the same as the day it left the proof house. Toward to muzzles you can see the elephant mark stamped on all Greener barrels. Here's the action, this is a Grade F16. There were lots of different grades, from dead plain to exhibition standard. It has Greener's favoured side safety. The rounded action is extraordinarily comfortable. The grain on the stock is beginning to open a bit, and the chequering is all but worn out. I forgot to photograph the stock itself, it's a nice bit of timber. The action again, complete with elephant mark The gun is a non-ejector, meaning it opens and closes beautifully. The gun shows no sign of getting loose, and it closes with a wonderfully precise click without any binding or clanging. The browning is fading a little, but I have to say I prefer a lighter shade to the chocolate or deep red colours sometimes seen.

Well said, bigman. Three words!

If you make them like the one in the photo it might be a good idea to make the business end flat and true without the "rounding off" so evident in the picture

Gunman I so agree with you. Cost is probably one prohibitive factor. Another is the bit about "...and be able to use them".

Mr Brown, beauty is in the eye of the beholder!

The "off the shelf" length of pull on an F3 is quite long, I share the surprise of the posters above that you have experienced one that's too short. I'm, six foot, have long arms and a long neck, and I'm toying with the idea of a thinner butt pad to compensate for thicker winter clothing. Apart from multiple layers of thermal stuff mine fits me near as admmit perfectly. I have no idea where in the country you may be, but if you're anywhere near Dorset a visit to Ian Mulliner is highly recommended. He not only knows these guns inside out (he's the UK warranty and repair man) but he shoots one too, with great effect. He can tell you all about the options with Blaser stocks. As a general rule it's vital that one should try several examples of a gun that interests you - Gordon R may well be right!

Purdey's did indeed get boxlocks from the Birmingham Trade. Then they finished the gun themselves, and that most probably included stocking it. The one on sale is restocked, has an absolute carbuncle of a beavertail, it's had a "Birmingham Bloom" wire brushing and blueing tart-up to hide surface corrosion and distress on the action, it has the single trigger with all the associated risks highlighted by John fromUK, and another poster above has mentioned the state of proof (how much metal is left in the bores until it's "out of proof" and indeed what was the last proof measurement) and of course the wall thickness question. A perusal of Holt's past sales for examples shows that this one is way over-priced! One to walk away from with big strides in my view...

I am astonished to hear your experience with the Blaser F3, Salop Sniper. Barrels rippling? Pogo Stick? Gosh, how I would like to compare that example with my own which exhibits neither characteristic. Most expensive gun I've shot with? Well the F3 mentioned above is represents the most I have actually spent on a gun, and I would spend the same again on the same gun if it were in some way destroyed or stolen. The "poshest" I suppose is a Boss sidelock ejector. But the most valuable is a Joseph Manton side by side flintlock. That's "valuable" in my own terms rather than simple cash value, of course!

Quote: "Been drinking early today?" Not that early, but it makes no difference anyway... Rangoon oil.... ...oh yes!

I think you're right John, but I like to kid myself to preserve the dream. <Sob>

Spray with Napier cleaner, vigorous bronze brushing, push a couple of squares of kitchen roll down thew tube. Spray again, then another bit of kitchen roll. On my damascus barrelled gun the vigorous brushing is extra vigorous, and the final act is a mopping with Young's 303 oil. This is primarily for the aroma, which reminds me of my childhood. It is also (remember the Parker-Hale advertising?) an antiseptic (that can be "applied to open wounds") and an insect repellant. Last of all it sort of dries a bit and preserves the bores. It is one of the last remaining traces of our Empire, and should be "listed" like buildings or even given a blue plaque. The outside of barrels and actions get a wipe with 303 or whatever oil is closest. Never WD40. I do not slather my guns in sufficient oil to necessitate the barbaric practice of storing them barrels-down. That is the sort of thing that foreigners do, and it frightens the servants.

When I bought mine I was perfectly prepared to specify an adjustable comb but it wasn't necessary. I require a higher comb than most (aristocratic cheek bones is my theory). As to Blasers recoiling more than others I'm at a bit of a loss. Mine doesn't, and I'm pretty sure others don't if the mount is reasonable. The F3 is a gun where "it's too barrel heavy" simply means it's been set up that way. It's the work of moments to set it up how you want, with two separate weights adjustable throughout the length of the stock and additional weights one can attach to the barrels within the fore-end. Any gun shop selling decent quality guns should know about this stuff, advise accordingly.

What an unfortunate style of communication...

I wouldn't black the barrels. I would rebrown them, that'll show the damascus off...

One whole segment of the "guns for investment" discussion that I would avoid like the plague is : http://lockyerofengland.co.uk/lockyer-mission-transform-rescued-historic-british-guns-works-art/