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  1. I use battening. It's the perfect size for most jobs, easily available and then cover in baize.
  2. Yes sad loss. I knew Nigel. Nice guy. He once came to me with a nasty dent in his barrels. I repaired it for him while he waited and we were chatting away. When done he asked "How much do I owe you?" I told him the price and he said that he just happened to have a box of his latest books in the car would I like one as payment. So I figured why not. He then asked if I had the first one... I said sheepishly "no, not yet". He then mentions that he just happened to have the first volume in the car as well and went and got it. I had to pay for that one. When he left I was still trying to do th
  3. Tula was known as the Russian Purdey. Love one but so would everyone else! The Vostock o/u's are excellent. Used by the Russian olympic trap team way back when. Best damn trigger pulls I ever felt. Tuning fork style main springs. Also came with two sets of barrels. Skeet and sporting/game. Chinese puzzle to work on. Well made. Definitely want one in my cabinet one day. A friend of mine has the BRNO that Scully has. With both sets of barrels. The compensated choked ones and a long game style set. Mint it is.
  4. From my reading Edwinson Green were Birmingham based gunmakers from late 1800's to the 1940's. They also had a shop in Cheltenham... a quality tool and diy store. Extremely clever chaps. Quality gunmakers. I currently am working on one of their 3 barrelled 20 bores. It has a single trigger and ejectors. All that modern technology in 1915!! A lot of them were made for the trade. Lancaster and Westley Richards come to mind. Their o/u's are very collectible.
  5. Winchester triggers are inertia operated. You need to thump the stock when dry firing. Preferably with snap caps. Baikals are mechanical single triggers.
  6. Right. Sadly the JLS went some time back. However yours (if it's like the one's I had) should be about 10 inches long and 1 1/2" in diameter. (shows you how old these are and how technology has moved on. Still work great though) You say you think it might have come off an old .22 you had. If it is the size of a .22 rimfire mod then NO. It will disappear after a few shots on a centre fire .22 For .243 the mods usually come with a internal diameter suitable for calibres up to and including 6.5mm. So as long as yours is the dimensions stated and the internals are larger than 6mm then y
  7. I've got a couple of old JLS Stalker mods in the workshop. These came off a .243. I'm guessing yours wasn't proofed as it would have the calibre stated on it along side the proof mark. You could measure the bore hole at the muzzle for what calibre/s it was made for. I can measure mine tomorrow with a pair of verniers when I'm in the workshop for you if you haven't already found out.
  8. I use to sell Percussion boots. Not anymore. Not worth the grief. Even the company wasn't easy to get replacements/refunds from. Stick to Aigle or Le Chameau. Yes they cost double but I've worn the same pair of Aigles for over fifteen years. Done 7 mile hikes in the rain in them as well as beating and shooting. Worth every penny.
  9. I'd give a Lincoln the thumbs up. They do a camo one too. https://www.bisley-uk.com/product.php?i=LIWPA&c=13
  10. RFM Look on Sportsman GC website. I got one in stock. £1695.00
  11. William Ford guns I have come across were very well made. Yes an underated maker imo. As for Holloways, Gunman might know better but anything made by Holloway for the trade had a number stamped under the barrels prefixed with an H. (H*****) It will also have the "makers" (retailers) number on the guard and usual places. Any gun I've seen with this number was always a very well shaped up, engraved nicely and overall a nicely made gun. I had a beautiful Dickson BLE I believe was made by Holloway. Sold it. Doh!
  12. Fil


    That's right. Assuming he has left off the 12-76 off the end of the numbers given. So 13030159110 would be stamped 13-03-01591-10-12-76 on his gun. 13 is the maker (Lanber), 03 is the type of gun(shotgun), 01591 is the gun number, 10 is the year of manufacture (2010) and the last two are obviously 12 bore 76mm chambers. Earlier Lanbers had a serial number followed by 12-70 as in those days they were 70mm chambers and no requirement for makers code, country of origin code or year of manufacture incorporated into the numbering.
  13. Fil


    For Spanish built guns up until 94 there is a letter code as part of the proof marks. there will be a letter next to a number. After 94 the date is the last two numbers of the four part serial number. I have owned no less than 5 of the early Lanbers and have a lot of spares. I still own a one off custom Lanber (my first) that I refiled the action, and re ribbed the barrels including Purdey fore end fins during lunch breaks when I was at H&H. Great guns. Sadly spares pretty much obsolete. A couple of specialist suppliers still have some. None at GMK anymore. Sorry I'm waffling but some
  14. I worked on one of those Ford chamberless 12's. The chap brought it to me to get through proof. It was near 20 years ago. I prepped the barrels and gave it a tighten. I asked Geoff (at London proof house) what do we proof it for as it has no chambers. He said "for the biggest 12 bore load there is". A 3 1/2" proof load it was then! It passed.
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