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oliver90owner

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    No aim whatsoever!

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    Lincs
  • Interests
    Huntin' shootin' & fishin' among plenty of others. Beekeeping, old tractors and machinery (mainly Olivers!), gardening (as cheap as a gym subscription!), CSMs, renewable energy, metal clay and lampworking (but not at all artistic), model engineering, brewing and winemaking. Nuff yet?

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  1. Yes, I have positioned the screen as far forward as possible, to the front of the scope. Just thought for the odd foray someone may have tried it - even fitting the scope as far forward as necessary. I find I have to remove my glasses (or at least only look through the bottom half of the bifocals) to avoid a double image of the cross-wires. Apart from that it works very well indeed. Certainly good enough for an air rifle at sensible ranges. It would certainly need an IR filter to use it in bright daylight conditions, that is for certain!
  2. I have recently knocked up an infrared night-sight for my airgun. Good but very cumbersome, what with adaptor, camera, batteries and screen all hanging on the scope, so I was wondering if a system with a mobile phone had been tried....do away with the battery and box, and all of the wiring. Only downside might be position of the phone being too close for comfortable viewing?
  3. I think 8 x 56 is about the ideal for a lot of applications. The pupil exit diameter is 7mm , so the average eye will get the best image, the light gathering capability is over 50% better than 42mm objectives (particularly for use in dim lighting) and the magnification will a) provide easier handling (steady image) and a wider field of view. As your question is only about light transmission, clearly the larger the objective the more light entering the optics is an advantage. Quality of the optics can, however, make a huge difference to how much of that light reaches the retina of your eye(s). Neither option is using the full potential of your pupil size.
  4. One, or more, of these could be part of the ultimate decoying system if they could be made to look more like a pigeon and less like a raptor! https://thedronenews.com/2019/01/18/developed-self-made-bird-type-ornithopter/
  5. Its a pigeon forum. Clearly, few shoot driven game! Probably still better to put the tighter choke in the bottom barrel, if one has that option, for driven game.
  6. oliver90owner

    Wasps

    Some years there are more. Some less. I put it down to the spring weather. If the queen's first nest gets drowned, she may get started again but will be that much later developing, so smaller at the time of queen cell production. It may 'knock on' into the next year. This usually only affects ground nesting wasps, not the ones in uour roof space! Something is chewing apples to a shell, so they are about. Not seen any troubling the bees this year - yet.
  7. Ahh, twitface, the place where the scoundrels can locate exactly where pictures are taken (from the 'non-encoded' data which accompanies them), where the scoundrels can easily work out members' routines and often when they are away on holiday, where youngsters risk being 'groomed' by lowlife. Etc, etc, etc, etc. Family photograhs can so easily be emailed to a family group of recipients, instead of potentially the whole world, so that is just a weak excuse. Yes, just another supposedly invaluable, or even the only way, to keep in touch with family and friends - and how many thousands have fallen for the gaffe? But everyones choice, I suppose. OK until it all goes wrong for you. All the advantages and none of the down-sides are out there extolling the virtues of it. I wonder why? To make more money out of more mugs, by any chance? Better off being private with emails rather than public on titface, I reckon.
  8. Antiquated but if safe to use it has value. As stated previously, new tanks are easily obtained - and that one is prolly only 100 litre approx? Many modern compressors are scrapped due to rubbishy cheap compressors which fail easily, so second hand tanks are available - obviously not an option for a business insurance, but OK for (safe) private use. Placement in a safe area is a sensible precaution for any high pressure pneumatic vessel. My compressor is likely of similar age. I test mine by filling brim full with water and then jacking up the pressure with a grease gun. It can also be run at a lower pressure than design. The old cast iron compressors were built to last. Much better durability than some of the high revving rubbish on the market, but they are probably less efficient in their operation (£p per unit of compressed air). Maybe the first question to ask is : Single or three phase motor?
  9. Here is a link to the eastern daily press on the convictions http://www.edp24.co.uk/news/crime/norfolk_firearms_dealer_guilty_of_helping_council_chief_amass_uk_s_biggest_arsenal_1_4353152
  10. ''with a petrol esp....'' Sorry but about 100% wrong. Diesels ard more susceptible to ingested water. All to do with incompressibilty of a liquid, compression ratio and stupid air intake designs, normally. Deep wading is another thing altogether.
  11. One of my inverters would - it's just over 2kW output, I think, and true sine waveform - but that does not run on a 12 volt battery.
  12. A 50W load for short periods (up to a few hours) would be better served from a large leisure battery, using an inverter. This thread is about starting relatively heavy loads compared to the running load. Recharging a 12V battery can be taken care of easily, if a car is available as the power source, But again, there are inverters and inverters - some are square wave, some modified sine wave and some are true sine wave. Some are downright inefficient, but most could be used for simple lighting for instance. I have a 2 stroke cheapy 600W chinese offering which cost me about 15 quid, and my trusty 3 1/2 kVA diesel armature wound. The Hatz diesel is noisy - especally so, if the rest in the area are without power! - but the small petrol is easily portable. Even extension leads need to be selected carefully. Not all are three core, these days! LP is a good alternative fuel. My choice would likely be a Honda inverter generator of a couple kVA for this thread, but perhaps the smaller variants may be adequate. Just needs careful onsideration, not just jumping in for the cheapest kit available. It needs to be adequately powered, reliable and safe.
  13. Some good advice and some, err, not so good - even downright illegal and/or dangerous. Consider your load(s). Resistive (kettle, hot plate, radiant heater, etc) are easily sorted and kW rating is appropriate. Inductive loads (motors, transformers, etc) are generally covered by kVA but the standard Power Factor (PF) is 0.8 and some loads can have a different PF. Starting loads, particularly motors (fridges, freezers) can require up to 6 times the running current, occasionally more. Not all take that much and extra loads may not start while some may already be running. Electronic devices may not work with many generators because the wave form is not true sinusoidal. Other problems might be encountered with varying frequency and any voltage changes (transient or otherwise). Petrol is the obvious choice for very rare usage - cheaper to buy. But fuel always has road fuel duty included in the price, unless you use rebated diesel. Diesels are much cheaper to run but are better running under a good load (min 75% of maximum continuous load is one recommendation). They are more fuel efficient, except for the newer inverter type generators which run at appropriate engine speeds for the load applied. Most of those are petrol fuelled for the above loading reason, cost, etc. Connecting via a plug to any circuit is downright dangerous - risk of electrocution with bare potentially live plugs and risk of mains fed back to the generator.. Connecting to the house circuit, if grid fed, is illegal unless a suitable change-over switch is fitted. Its rating must be at least the grid supply for the property (80, 100, or more, Amps). Only 9? Litres (used to be 2 gallons) of petrol is allowed to be stored at a property in cans. The current petrol fuels contain far more volatiles (lower molecular weight hydrocarbons) and lose their cold start properties if left in a vented tank. Other content can corrode the fuel system and also gum up the carburettor. So the tank should be drained and the carburettor emptied if not used for extended periods. Modern diesel does not store as well as completely 'dino' of past years, but certainl y lasts longer than petrol. The small portable was likely useless, as the rating was likely the maximum output, not the continuous load rating and just too small to supply enough current while maintaining voltage for motor starts. Other questions might be do your freezers have a 'super freeze' setting? If so, best to get both started and run them continuously for several hours rather than intermittently. The fridge may need to be turned off as a best option. I have a 1kW kettle, but avoid the 3kW options! 'Nuff to think about? RAB
  14. They did not fit a lining for no good reason, several being exampled above. Destruction of the unit, leakage of gases of combustion, warping of plates, danger of combusting materials much further away than the recommended safety instructions, etc.. Fire bricks are produced with different properties - insulation, resistance to chemical attack, strength - so fit the right type with the correct expansion clearances. The insulation is also important, particularly with a wood burner, to maintain the firebox temperature high enough to achieve complete combustion - rather than destructive distillation which would mean condensation in the chimney with subsequent increased risk of chimney fire.
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