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impala59

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    Mitcham Surrey

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  1. Took the old school PSG 1187 out for a run and its now working 100% A few changes from previous incarnations have addressed the unreliability issues 1 I dumped the DMW speed ramp in favour of a curved piece of stainless steel bolted to the original release button. This drastically reduces the mass that I believe was interfering with the functioning during the firing/extraction/ejection/reload cycle. Also the rounded, polished stainless piece is more comfortable to use and does not have the "fangs" of the DMW unit which had bitten me on many occasions 2 I settled for the mag tube extension at 11 rounds which with the Nordic long spring gives reliable feeding to the last round. Aesthetically better looking too. 3 An 870 saddle mount was modified with a slot for the charging handle (nothing available for lefty 1187's) and a Shield dot and ring sight fitted (this obviously puts the gun into open class, but can easily be removed to revert to auto class) 4 The 90 degree rotating ambidextrous safety works perfectly as does its siblings fitted to my PSG M37 and box fed Valtro PM5 ( If the safety is applied, vertically down, it is immediately felt by the trigger finger, so no embarrassing "doh" moments) 5 The match saver fashioned from an old Prodec clip works just as it should As I previously mentioned, I find that using a Lefty gun although I am right handed seems to work really well for me especially for reloads (maybe I'm cack-handed!
  2. You are correct Sir! Upon checking the packaging mine is indeed OOOO grade, it was given to me by an antique furniture restorer who works with my upholsterer brother
  3. It was my intention to have no screws showing and the idea of using magnets came from a kitchen knife holder I made a few years ago. As Ditchman alluded to above, these rare earth magnets are super strong, the only downside is that if they come together too rapidly, they can shatter. The wire spring loaded rod came about in order to reduce the grab of the magnets and slow the connection of the two pieces. It is something I may repeat when restoring other guns as I do like ‘no tool’ assemblies. I am sure it would work with rubber recoil pads and I have a few of those to fit over the winter
  4. For what it’s worth, and as no expert in these matters, my chosen regime (as advised on these pages predominantly) is sanding to as fine a finish as possible (I usually go to 1500 grit) applying 5 to 7 coats of danish oil with 000 wire wool, wiping off after 5 to 10 minutes then polishing after at least 5 hrs. Finally, applying with beeswax with fingers then polishing to desired finish. This gives, in my opinion a finish that is good to look at, feels great and is protected. Also the oil will show up any and all blemishes that I have missed or ignored. This works for me but I am sure there are many other ways and materials available to achieve the look/feel that you want. IMHO these pages are an invaluable source of information and advice, I quite often look back or ask a question as there are many skilful artisans who freely and willingly pass on their knowledge
  5. While I don’t (yet) own an SXP, I have read that the magazine throat (plastic) can be a weak point, probably worth getting a spare in the unlikely event............ If filing your loading port, I would counsel caution and remove a little at a time, I have seen some receivers drastically weakened by removing copious amounts of metal
  6. As long as you don’t make the Picasso of slingshots as you would probably shoot yourself in the face!🤪 I do agree with the Salvador Dali comparison though, your slingshot would not look out of place in his work. You are an inspiration to us lesser mortals as are many of the great contributors to these pages
  7. That's actually a nice idea and would save me trying to black the alloy. With a blue finish on the steel work it would have a nice contrast. Also if it looked a bit weird, the polishing would be excellent preparation for a different finish. Thank you Sir! 😀
  8. You are correct Sir! I have many 37's from early models up to the late 80's. All in perfect working order. Apparently, the new Sandusky manufacturing plant has improved the model with its hi-tech CAD and machine quality. Hoping for a better trade deal with the US once we escape the claws of the EU!
  9. That works the other way too🙁 trying to get parts for my US made shotguns is very difficult and expensive, with HS many suppliers will not even take a UK order. Been trying to get one of the new Ithaca 37’s, seemingly impossible unfortunately
  10. Got some gunstock beeswax from the E, unfortunately named slippery *****! Nevertheless it goes on nice with a finger and polishes up to a pleasant sheen, happy with that!
  11. I like the look of that, particularly the stock top line being almost parallel to the rib/barrel. It seems almost like a Monte Carlo but without the bulk. Nice one!
  12. You need a couple of like minded friends now for a rear rank and third rank😀 Try launching three clays and firing on command, great fun and gets the over serious crowd a bit miffed!
  13. With a further look a couple of days on , I now also prefer it with the white 1mm spacer. Despite the slight colour difference which may even up with more applications, the grain will always run at 90 degrees to the stock, so happy to live with that. a pal suggested rubbing in raw beeswax on top of the danish oil? Any thoughts gentlemen?
  14. Well I probably fell foul of the "rush to finish" gremlins, but nevertheless this is how it came out. Not a great colour match on the wood but maybe some more applications of Danish oil will improve it. I think I have achieved something of what I set out to do, that is, having no screw heads showing as per the original. The butt piece is securely fitted and safely locked in place, it takes a fairly hefty tug to remove it. The length of pull is a comfortable 13 3/4". Due to the colour issue I tried adding a little bling with a white plastic pinstripe so as to accent the difference rather than hide it, not really sure about that to be honest. A little work still to be done on the metal cosmetics, I will have to research methods for re-blacking the alloy receiver in due course Left right and end views With try out white layer Nice compact English, Grouse anyone?😁
  15. Having recently acquired a Ithaca Model 37 20g English Model, I was somewhat disheartened to see that at sometime in its life the butt end had been sawn off and a rather nasty brass butt plate installed. The original had no plate but was finished with horizontal grip lines and a bung which filled the stock bolt hole. The stock having been brutalised was also a little short. I decided to add about a half inch as I had some American walnut from a previous project. There was also a bad crack repair where the stock joins the receiver and some gashes in the wood including a quite nasty dent in the checkering. I got out most of the dents and carefully recut the checkering, I remade he cracked area with a much stronger repair (removing a little material from the inside where it appears to have been struck by the working parts moving rearwards.) I did not want to screw the new piece in place and went a different route so as in some ways to honour the original look. I decided to fix it in place in the following manner; 1 A hardwood (oak) rod to locate and centralise 2 Spring wire in the locating rod to grip the bolt hole sides 3 Rare earth magnets to hold the piece solidly in place Testing on the rough fit I found that the spring loaded rod or the magnets were each sufficient on their own but I decided to stick with both as it makes for a good solid fit Repaired, much finishing still to do The recut damaged checkering (first pass) Rough cut showing magnets(the ones in the piece are covered in sawdust) Shaped Straight cut grip lines (first pass) Spring loaded locating rod Past this point the magnets really take hold and firmly grip the piece Still a long way to go but I am quietly hopeful that it will look ok when finished.
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