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impala59

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  1. Not being very familiar with over and unders, a little advice please! I needed to convert my Miroku to manual safety as it is to be used in slug shooting competitions where speed loading is very necessary for multi barrels. I removed the auto safety actuator bar and screw and the gun functions exactly the same with or without it. My question is, the aluminium floating box attached to the top of the trigger has to move side to side to allow it to fire the second barrel. Does this function occur due to recoil only, or is there some other device I am missing? If I fire(dry) the first barrel nothing happens unless the block is moved backwards, when it resets and fires the second (either barrel selected as first) I have also realised that with the stock on, by banging the butt pad the mechanism resets. Is this all normal operating system? I have not yet tried with live ammunition as I am working on a few projects at the same time, but would like some re-assurance that I have half a chance of the thing working on the range!
  2. I have only lightly oiled the polished areas where obvious metal to metal contact is needed for function. I am over the fear of stripping it now and found that using pin punches as temporary pivots and part locators works well for reassembly. What I am now, is in awe of the gunsmiths and engineers who developed these old guns, I love levers, cams, pivots etc but all these working parts within a machined box is quite frankly amazing. I would love to see a cutaway Greener cycling the bolt, extract/eject, auto safety and cocking mechanism, with one short lever action and only one spring! Wonderful engineering!
  3. I think, to be honest it was the fouling, the main spring is fine, so much tension when putting it back together! As always with these things we tinker with, 20 minutes to carefully it take apart and 3 and 1/2 hours to get it back together, I sort of understand the Greener advice not to take apart! However removing a whole pile of various gritty substances has left it smooth and slick in operation, the disc at the base of the pin was grinding on the shaft walls it moves in, now polished with a light oiling it moves freely and without resistance. Back on the range will hopefully confirm!
  4. Appeal for information!! My GP suffered a few light strikes over the weekend, so I have dived in and taken it down to component level to try and sort the problem. I am concerned that maybe the pin section of the striker is possibly a little worn. It mics at 7.79 mm measured from the flat disc to the tip. If anyone has a good striker and could measure I would be much obliged! additionally, the whole mechanism was full of grit, unburnt powder, dirt, carbon and other unpleasant gritty stuff (which in itself may be the cause of a slowish strike) When the striker is in the bolt and is fully exposed, the pin protrudes 1.14 mm (possibly easier to measure) Any advice, measurements would be very much appreciated. I can see why it is not advised to take these guns apart, but with the amount of crud in mine, maybe a full service every few years would be advisable! In pieces! What have I done?! The striker, showing the pin measurement
  5. Thanks for the advice! And apologies for not being clearer initially!
  6. Yes, for an old pump gun that a friend managed to chip a corner off the extractor by not aligning the barrel correctly. (after cleaning he cycled the thing, thought it was a bit stiff so kept on cycling it! ) he admitted his guilt when I pointed out the damage on the barrel cut-out and the broken extractor. Hopefully will be able to repair ( he was going to put it in an auction to get rid!) Ah! you know me so well! Another 37 saved (I hope) I will be making him an alignment tool also!!
  7. The Remington M17 a couple of pictures to get started. The parentage to the Ithaca 37 is very obvious, removing the barrel is identical with the early 37’s with the sliding pin to assist rotation. As all who know the venerable 37, the next thing is to remove the stock, so as to release the sideways tension on the trigger plate screw. Problem #1 it would appear that some time in the last 105 years or so someone decided that the butt plate screws were insufficient and glued the butt plate on! So, cautiously working a scalpel around, it’s going to take some time as I don’t want to cause any marks or damage, watch this space!
  8. It runs into a machined slot but doesn’t impact steel to steel. The extractor spring allows it to ride over the cartridge rim and then keeps it in place when extracting. The ejector is a separate fixed block on the opposite side of the receiver which imparts a spin on the fired case, thus ejecting and releasing the case from the extractor.or in this case fingers which flip the case out Cheers! Great advice!
  9. I am looking at single piece semi auto/ pump so no soldering, but your advice will be kept as my club mates do bring in some weird and wonderful stuff ! thank you!
  10. Following previous advice from the PW massive, I now always use silver steel for the various firing pins I have made and modified. Heating to cherry, oil quenching, polishing then heating to blue and again oil quenching has been totally successful. I have made for myself and also for friends, something like 30 to date, reviving many cabinet loiterers. my question is, would this be the same process for extractors? It would seem so to me as the only hard connection with anything is with the case, much as the firing pin only connects with the primer. I should be grateful for all advice!
  11. sounds like a good idea! only problem (as always) is date and venue to suit as many as possible
  12. Well I won the Remington M17! Was a bit expensive but bought at the low end of guide price thankfully! Best news is my daughter has said she will pay for it for my birthday pressie as she has no idea what to get me! I love my kids! I'll post again when I pick it up and have had a chance to go over it, nevertheless, one ticked off the list!
  13. Target shotgun is a series of slug only competitions for various classes of shotgun, using some of the old pistol courses of fire and shot at distances between 10m and 200m (and all those in between) These disciplines are promoted by the NRA at Bisley. As a practical shooter and an ex police pistol competitor I felt right at home when I tried this last year and it is a lot of fun! The classes are; Semi Auto, (tube or box fed) Manual (pump, lever, revolver, bolt action, tube or box fed) Multi Barrel (Over/Under, Side by Side, Triple barrel Classic (single barrel, single shot. Any sights are permitted and there are also classes for iron sights within the above classifications, hence the scope on my 1187, a dot sight on my Over and Under, a modified pistol scope on my single shot break action and a scope on my box fed pump. My Greener GP has a ghost ring type rear sight. I believe that this will take off in a big way as shooters discover it! Additionally, there are other matches, Service, Multi Target Embassy cup, etc all of which are challenging and fun. The mixture of guns on the line is wide and interesting and doesn't follow the standard practical format and restrictions. All info is on the NRA website with all courses of fire and rules etc. This weekend and two weeks later there are major competitions at Bisley, I am shooting in as many classes as I can. Its different from practical and requires a modified skillset but is nonetheless a great and entertaining sport, try it!
  14. Yes, The barrel shortened to 24" took out all the choke for a true cylinder bore. Shooting offhand, this little gun is actually very accurate with slugs. I have heard from many shooting friends that they are also very accurate on game, with excellent shot patterns when choked (and long!) With reduced length and weight, in my opinion, it is one of the nicest handling shotguns that I own, hold it properly and even the recoil is not awful!
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