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    Mitcham Surrey

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  1. The silicon is Mouldcraft HT-560 RTV and I believe that this can take low melt point metals Apparently, it is a 'shore 60' ?? and is stable up to 280 degrees C, £24 per kg but I only bought a tester of 250g (£8)
  2. For what it’s worth, the skill levels are fairly low. I picked a silicon that is 50/50 by weight (not volume)and a polyeurethane resin that is also 50/50 by weight. Mixing slowly in clean pots (washed and dried thoroughly yogurt pots) using clean wood coffee stirrers for mixing and pouring from about 10” above with the smallest stream possible, starting in the lowest part of the mould or mould box, the same technique for both making the mould and casting the resin. It’s certainly something that I will use again and as ditchman says templates can be made and then cast.
  3. Yes all colours available, also casting rubber too. I have a number of my guns with cracked/glued butt plates, I will be looking at fine sanding these to get a decent master then casting a new one in solid. Incidentally, when I removed from the mould, they were still a bit warm and slightly pliable, I rested them on a sheet of glass for flatness but they could if needed be fitted to slightly curved surfaces if done early enough. This morning they are rock hard and look to be sandable for perfect fit
  4. Having the need for a butt plate for a new addition to my Ithaca collection, I experimented with a trial kit from mouldcraft.co.uk. Ithaca parts are unobtainable in the UK so needs must! Firstly, I made a very rough mould box, laid a couple of butt plates of differing style and size in it and mixed up my silicon. Very slowly so as to not create air bubbles I poured over the originals (complete with age related patina marks etc!) after an hour or so, I removed the silicon mould, thankful that my originals were none the worse for the treatment. I then mixed my two part plastic and carefully filled the moulds (including one for a pistol grip cap as I had some silicon over) I missed the colour a bit, probably my mixing, but overall I am happy that I can now duplicate these rare butt plates. I will make further moulds of different styles in the future, all in all, a simple process that is actually very rewarding and fun to do! The mould box with originals Covered with Silicon mix Filled with plastic mix Originals left, the moulds and clones right Detail of my repro butt plates
  5. Another joins the family! Thanks Henry! This Nice condition, unmolested, 1960 example is my second 'sweet 16', 16 gauge model 37. Originally a 24" improved cylinder (as manufactured) it sports a factory fitted 'deluxe Poly Choke/ compensator' which seems to have been a popular modification on 16 gauge guns back then, this adds 3" to the barrel length Nicely figured, undamaged wood under much aged and dark finish, I think this one will restore very nicely, thank you! Only downs are one slightly chewed screw head and a missing butt plate, but hey, I have to have something to do! A complete component level strip down is on the cards over the next few days and will hopefully reveal internals as good as the outside, it certainly feels good, slick as all its siblings are and this is one of my favourite gauges for clays and the odd pigeons Almost 62 years old and solid as the day it left the factory, I do love these guns!
  6. Supposed to be red! more like metallic puce! Incidentally, these make pretty good sight beads too, with various sizes/colours, with or without stop collars and ten for a couple of quid!
  7. After posting my ambidextrous safety catch on the DIY thread, it occurred to me that I had not posted my Deerslayer on the pump club; Love this gun! another coming soon watch this space!
  8. Looking at my ambidextrous safety again, I decided to try a slightly different approach. Using R/C model car ball joints (that have a convenient 2.5 mm allen socket and 3mm thread) I fashioned, a piece of 1/4" steel rod to allow/deny trigger movement then drilled and tapped for the levers. It works fine, the original detent spring and plunger ensure positive positioning, small indents give nice click stop. I will round off the steel ends after live testing. Using this design, the length and shape of the levers can be altered to suit and conveniently the catch can be removed from the trigger guard without dis-assembly. (the original M37 safety is the first piece in the assembly and the last out when stripping down) Rather than push through, this is rotating, down for safe, forward for fire and the catch on either side is felt by the trigger finger when in safe and naturally pushes forward so eliminating those 'doh!' moments
  9. Can’t argue with that!
  10. Not sure if its been mentioned, but simply putting a small piece of black tape on the left lens of your safety glasses, in line with your iris will enable both eyes open for depth of field and right eye only along the barrel / bead. This works for me with clays, for what its worth
  11. For Green Hornet, looking for speedgate solution for 1100/1187 Below, my original troublesome DMS speed gate and my solution, the simplified single piece of 1mm stainless steel. Also, if you are interested, (if you shoot PSG) my rotating ambidextrous safety catch and aluminium bolt handle all made with simple hand tools.
  12. Hi, I have a DMS Remington speed gate somewhere, I will try to find it if you wish. However, the reason I have it is that I found that the mass of the gate "fangs" (so called because they bite!) caused chatter and flutter in the cycle operation, (even after I shortened them a little to reduce the mass), which led to occasional fails to feed etc. My remedy was to fashion a small stainless steel plate with a curve, fix it to the original mag gate button and thus facilitate easy (non biting!) speed loading. This works as there is far less mass to contribute any flutter and, using the original button means that everything fits properly (some filing is needed with the DMS system) If you check out the 'Semi Auto Club' thread on page 26, there is a picture of my 1187 where you can see my speed gate. It has never failed and this was a scrapper shotgun that was given to me by a mate as a hopeless case. Happy to send close up pics if you wish or can post on the thread
  13. Various 10/22 magazines for sale, all prices include postage 2 x Butler Creek 25 round clear mags (can be clipped together for fast mag change) £18 each both for £35 4 x Pro Mag Archangel AA922 25 round reinforced polymer magazines, 3 with full bore size clip in sleeve, (look good on tactical type 10/22's) £18 each (sleeved) £15 un-sleeved one, all 4 for £55 3 x BX1 Ruger standard 10 round and tri-mount carrier, £18 each, carrier £10, all together £60 Everything together £140 Check out the prices, This lot around £270+
  14. Greetings all! I've been offline for a while, but still actively shooting all my pumps! I have reduced my sizable collection a little and now have only Ithaca's (seventeen at moment and one clone) I am currently looking at the mil/LE class for slug shooting and reconfiguring my DS to S1 to meet scrutineering
  15. Don't cut a circle, just fit a clock mechanism behind using the natural centre point and slim black hands, it would look prenominal!
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