Spoon

I've got a set of dummies from an old website (dummycartridges.net or similar, long since dead) which sound similar. They're loaded with shot and crimped down on to some kind of card. The primer is glue so not the worst if you dry fire, but not recommended. The rim gets chewed up fairly quickly with all the loading and unloading, particularly if you don't unload from the bottom. I found a lightweight and unfilled dummy that is much more durable - I chewed up the edges on one fixing a problem with my bolt action (locating a burr) but the rest load and unload without taking a knock. Chewed or not, they cycle fine. I find them useful for checking the action or walking somebody new through the process. My dad set a record of sending one across the room and behind the sofa when testing on his O/U.

These are great, I'm very tempted to give these a go. I always assumed its because you have valid reason to change barrels (different lengths, replaced if ******** etc.) while the action has the serial number on it which is the bit where you prove its the item on your ticket.

Have some idea of what you have available locally and what you want to do - things like knowing where your local clay range is, or who you plan to shoot with or where you plan to go. I got the strong impression that my FEO was happier when he spoke to me and I explained about the three closest places I'd looked at and why I was going to the one I chose, despite not having done much shooting before.

Near Ipswich, according to his previous posts.

As with figgy and what I have in my box that very much appears to be a V1. Start with a something Mobil which is what the Teague I use with mine is threaded for. Should be pretty clear to tell.

Welcome to the Hatsan club! We've prepared the wards and said the sacred words so hopefully the "you should have just spent a grand and got a Beretta" gang stay away. I've been meaning for ages to ask quite what this forum thinks dirty is when they say "keep your semi auto clean and it'll run fine". I give mine a full going over after each outing, cleaning it down with a generic bore cleaner and then giving it a rub with Froglube CLP to either get any tough bits (usually the bolt face) and to keep it nicely lubed. My Hatsan had never fluffed a shot, so as an experiment I ran 100 21g carts through it from clean. Two fail to ejects out of 100 later and I ran it for 900 more on the usual 28g with no issues at all. One hundred more 21g produced 2 more failure to ejects and I stopped and cleaned it again. Basically if you keep the gas port in the barrel remotely clean, and make sure the O-ring is clean (spares on links below and Ebay) and not degraded then I suspect you'll have few issues. Biggest challenge I've had is running 67 or 65mm rounds, and usually then if only loading 3 (which I don't do at a clay ground). Treat it with as much love as you feel you need to for the price you paid, but know a bit of TLC should guarantee some sense of reliability. Hatsans, to my knowledge, come with either V1, V2, or V3 chokes. The early guns tend to be V1 or V2, and the newer ones (with the bolt release in the loading gate) come with V3. That's certainly not gospel, just what I think I've pieced together. The chokes are all different, just to be a pain. Airgunspares has all 3 versions (Dauntsey Guns have them too) and has a nice little "*** do I have" guide: You'll see that V2 and V3 come in flush or extended, and that V1 are flush only. Of the three, I only know the following compatibility: V1 - Mobil (I have a Teague in mine so pretty confident) V2 - No idea V3 - Remmington (according to this thread) I had a quick google and couldn't see anything on V2 thread chokes but you might with a bit of persistence. Enjoy the gun!

Interestingly, my sticky buttoned Fabarm has been sat in my cabinet for a few weeks without its fore end on and having put it together again and tried it out today its now as easy to operate as any other of my semis. Initial thought is without the fore end, and the cap, the spring has sat without pressure on it for what is likely a very long time for an old gun. Not proclaiming a fix, just confused as to the change. Does this make sense to anyone? Or shall I lay out an offering for the semi-auto fairy?

I have the same issue on my Fabarm. It's an old gun so put it down to age and gunk, but haven't had time to whip out the trigger group and figure out exactly what the issue is.

How long ago did you order? I don't believe you can get parts any more as per their FAQ:

Is this just banning those type of guns that are semi auto but basically have a forced bolt hold open after each trigger pull, with oversized bolt releases? I thought this kind of workaround was absurdly expensive compared to sinlmilar options so I wonder how many people are effected.

Teague advised it would be safe provided the choke screwed up to the safety step. Quick inspection and it did, so 105 shots later I can confirm it did in fact work fine.

So the Luxano comes with two barrels, but the second one already had a choke blow out from a previous owner so the sanity check is to avoid having two unchoked 24" barrels! But as you say, the proof is in the pudding...

Hi all, I'm looking for a second opinion/a sanity check. The Teague fairy has sent me a ported Mobil choke, and the only gun I have that fits Mobil is my Hatsan Escort Luxano. It's an old model and through measurement and marking I determined it to be threaded for Mobil so popped the new arrival in. What I found was that it sits snugly (using the Teague key) but leaves about a half turn of thread showing. I've measured the space in the barrel for the choke, the original internal chokes and compared that to how much of the new Teague is sat inside the barrel and it all seems to be identical. My only experience of extended chokes is with the V3 Hatsan's which have the thread on the bottom. Based on my ramblings, and the photo attached, am I mad for thinking its perfectly safe to use the choke? And before its said, I'm aware it doubles the value of the Hatsan 😂

Yeah but you'd look A-Team cool with Mini-14's. Cigar optional.

So this schematic suggests its a "Link". Seems to be a few styles but one of the ones that does have a pictures is close to yours suggesting this might be right. Link is an annoyingly generic term to search for tho so might be hard.

This is my fathers watch which has been sat on my desk since Christmas and therefore is up for grabs! Series 2 Apple Watch . Stainless steel 42mm case. The box says milanese loop but I'm afraid this instead comes with the plastic white strap in both S/M and M/L both of which I believe to be unused. My dad used this from new, as a replacement for a faulty unit, for 3 months prior to upgrading, so the condition is good. It has the micro scratches you'd expect from general use (which should be visible in one of the pictures) and the screen is unmarked. Includes the charging cable and charging plug. I'm looking for £140 posted. Welcome otherwise to come collect from St Albans. Payment via BACS only please.

Never done it but assumed this was the way. That never leaves the buyer without a cert, nor possibly in possession of a cert with a gun you don't have yet (if it doesn't travel back with the gun) and flows nicely through two reputable RFDs. Interesting to find out this isn't the case and confirm I'll stick with F2F.

Bolt closed or out and its an easy press. Same when you hold the bolt weight when it's locked back. Seems as if I must have something awry causing the bolt to rest funny.

So I have in my cabinet a Fabarm Ellegi semi auto, a nice 70's (so I believe) gun that works just fine but isn't something I'd be too upset to drop or hit somebody over the head with. An unchoked 24" barrel, so not my first choice for shooting clay, but I've had no problem with it going bang and hitting what I manage to correctly point it at. The one thing with it I've noticed is that the bolt seems to sit on the bolt release, resulting in having to press the button very hard, or take the bolt back a tiny amount via the handle to then release it like any other semi I've used. This results either in an unsatisfactory hard jab with the thumb, or a two handed action where the job should be done by one. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the Ellegi, or guns of the same era, and knew if this is common for the design or possibly a sign of wear and tear (or dirt and gunk) and worth tinkering with on a slow day? Nothing else I've handled has required anything more than a gentle amount of pressure on the release, so I'm unsure if its just my gun, or the guns in general. For now I just pretend I'm doing an M1 Garand/M14 style pull back and release..

For those who don't want an account: My thoughts: Based on the AK pattern, not designed to look pretty. They're not manufactured to look a specific way, they look a specific way because of the design. Either way, you need to exchange the weapon in person and complete the paperwork. Trying to imply here you can get Amazon to send it same day is disingenuous. Which ones, please? And I didn't think we had any loopholes with detachable box mags? Not a section 1 expert, but i always assumed you could get detachable mag shotguns if you had a reason (i.e. practical). What about a jenky cheap shotgun (like an old Hatsan) with an extended tube mag? Doesn't look AK or AR cool but has high capacity and is far cheaper, but doesn't seem to feature here. Well it is. The thing here is if you don't know much you don't know about AR being a pattern you can base stuff on. Wouldn't sound half as scary if it was based off the Ruger Mini-14 tho? Which presumably is legal under section 1 and not that controversial as I think it would still pass under NZ law due to it being a .22? On what, by who? These are new? Mil style box mag guns have been around a while? And what bloody loopholes?! This argument starts to draw out the real thought behind all this - do shootings happen because people get a tacticool hard on for their guns, or could somebody slap an extended tube on a jenky 1970's gun and still cause serious damage? Will just ensuring that all guns have wood furniture be enough? I have agreement with control and moderation of firearms but you cannot keep coming back to the "its black and is assault style" without looking like you just don't know what you're talking about. That'd cause a hell of a drag on clay shooters, none of whom seem to be otherwise implicated in this "ban black guns" diatribe, and pest controllers. The government seems happy that target shooting is a legitimate purpose. I'm all for a debate, but this keeps coming back to the same fight the US has. AR-15 is scary and Ruger Mini 14 isn't because one is black plastic and the other is wood. In our recent history it wasn't an AK-15 with a 32 round fifty calibre clipazine that was used, but an illegally acquired .22. If you want to ban the black scary guns then fine (or even paint them pink with flowers) but lets have THAT debate and not pretend it isn't people who don't understand a single iota of the nomenclature and subject having a yell.

Paul Harrell. I watch a few people sporadically, but Harrell is dry and informative. He mostly does ammo tests, talks about the differences in guns, and shoots dull targets but I find him interesting. I only have a shotgun, but I even find his random handgun ammo tests interesting.

Shoot left with right eye dominance. I find a high vis bead compensates so shoot with both eyes open. I struggle much more with a gun that has a simple bead and really need to shoot with one eye in that situation.

What kind of Escort? All the ones I've played with needed it so assumed it was universal.

Well... I guess I'll just shrug and leave it there. You've got a tidy straw man set up now, and even had the fun of calling me a snowflake so there isn't much left but to be further trolled. Oh well. I'll continue to watch the news with interest.

I think you're being a touch disingenuous with how I worded my response, and pretty aggressive to boot. I agree that the complexity of the issue would have been, and still frankly is, hard to contextualise in a way that allows everyone who could vote on it have a clear understanding of what they'd get either way. I don't agree with the way a figure was plastered on a bus as rock solid truth, and neither do I agree that tales of doom and woe impacting jobs/the economy/the NHS were helpful to make a reasoned or considered view either. But has the process to date been poor and disappointing? Yes. I'm not actually of the view that we "chuck democracy" and stop Brexit. I suppose a (democratic) vote on what we have on the table, which might be something like no Brexit, whatever deal May has been able to cobble together, and a no deal, would be a way to go but I fear that too is wrought with the same issues we had on the initial vote. I probably am more of the view, however, that we now are going to get whatever we get and therefore we get on with regardless if it was what I want. What I definitely think is that its sad that there is continued hysterical yelling of things like "third world tin pot dictatorship stopping us moving in to the promised land" going on as a way of drowning out ANY other viewpoint, criticism, thought, suggestion, concern, suggestion, or opinion.