bigtoe

gamebag I had a problem like that on an old shoot when I was a teenager. I used to be followed about etc and shooting became a real pain.To sort the issue i carried written permission from the land owner and a list of all the people he would allow on his land... i then asked these people their names when they came giving me grief...ofcourse their names were not on the list so i asked them to leave and stop trespassing. I also spoke with the local police regards the matter before these locals had time to complain. Within 2weeks the problem had gone.I then found a number of badger sets and helped organise Badger watching etc on nights when i wasn's shooting..this got all the locals back loving me and the land owner felt a little easier with everyone getting along..the short of it is do what you need to but don't fall out with anyone.

http://cgi6.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...&sort=3&rows=50 This guy is US based.He is cheap and ships to your door in under 5 days.I bought 2 ADV Timber jackets from him, the ones you see on ebay and for sale in the UK at £45+..what did I pay??? £17+shipping. Buy yout gear from the US and save your self a fortune..just remember to ask that the value on the package is stated as less than $40 to avoid import costs...

Its a little more involved than just cutting the spring etc..it took me 2 days on and off just to get the action deburred etc to how I liked it. Then i cut the spring back to where the deformity in it had gone.My theory was the deformed part of the spring due to being over compressed was doing next to nothing and it proved right.You also have to carefully heat up the end of the spring where you cut it to bend it flat again without damaging the tempering on the rest of the spring which is not easy.Then grind it flat. I replaced the spring guide with a Darlen one and then played about weighting the washer end and preloading the guide end of the spring using a chronoscope till i got the power i wanted.lots of pellets and strip downs. failing that just take your rifle to a specialist to get it tuned

Your wasting your time with stiffer springs IMO.I just cut 2inches off an OX spring, coupled it with a PTFE washer and carefully tweaked the preload on the spring to get between 608 and 614fps using 14.4gr pellets that puts me bang on the legal 12lb limit.I also deburred the action and countersunk the transfer port internally to increase the efficiency. With a standard HW spring this gun now makes well over 14Ft/Lbs so you can see just how efficient is has become. Only difference is I now have a gun thats VERY easy to cock and dismantle as there is next to no pressure on the spring when uncocked. Tuning takes time and patience...just fitting a stronger spring is NOT the way to go IMO.It will probably get you on the wrong side of the law also. My next plan is to cut the standard spring down and see if i can get the FPS consistency even better.

Hi guys, first post on this forum so please be gentle I have owned my HW35 since I was 14, im 35 now and it has gone thru a few rebuilds along its life but always to near stock spec. I decided recently to try to get back into airgunning as im just starting to get over ME (chronic fatigue syndrome) which I have had for well over 2 yrs. With the extra energy I have I thought of no better way than spending it outdoors shooting, I used to have 270acres to shoot on but thats long gone so for now im looking for a new shoot but have lots of time for rifle tuning. The rifle had been fitted with what looks to be an Ox mainspring and the old leather piston had been replaced with the new type piston unit....it shot awefully!! I had forgotten what it was actually like to shoot and with me not being anywhere near as fit as I used to be I decided some action was needed. First I managed to find a very nice custom built walnut stock, I will post pics later and I must say im thrilled to have found it, this alone greatly changed how the rifle handled and shot. Second I managed to pick up a chronoscope up off ebay..I paid quite a bit for it although less than the £90+ wanted for units that are still available..this I have found the most useful tool I have ever bought.Staying legal while tuning is VERY important. Next up I had my already shortened .22 barrel shortened again..After talking with many friends and keen airgunners it seemed all I really needed was 12inches to retain good accuracy and power upto 35m or so.I know there are shortfalls by shortening barrels this short also but with me tuning and replacing many items within the gun I gave it a go.I must say im glad I did as testing upto 20m has shown no loss of accuracy upto now and im sure longer range testing will prove just the same. I also had the barrel threaded 12"UNF to except a Parker Hale silencer. Turning to the inside of the gun I have started on a bit of a journey, at the moment im using the standard piston unit with a PTFE washer but I have decided to make a new piston unit along the lines of a lazerglide unit. As I gather more details of what I will make I will post them and post drawings also if needed. Next came the spring. Many say square section springs are not the way to go so I bought a quality round aftermarket one that is to original specs...thing is I haven't used it. I decided to cut the square section spring down a little and resquare up the end..in all I cut 6 coils off with the re-squareing reducing it to around 7 coils shorter.The reason for doing this was that upon removal 2 1/2" of the spring had become deformed thru over compression and was obviously doing next to nothing. I replaced the ageing spring guide with a newer unit (which I will also replace with a custom unit later) and proceeded to relube the gun and test it. Well with a spring 2 1/2 " shorter you would think I had a huge reduction in power..not so!! I was still seeing close to 10Ft/lbs and I could now cock the rifle with the silencer fitted using 1 finger to pull on the barrel easily.The spring was hardly under any compression when uncocked and the internal noise had dramatically reduced. 10 ft/lbs is not enough though...11.75 is my target or a little higher so now came the time for piston weights etc. Im having weights machined up by a friend but for now im using washers which has allowed me to experiment a little to get the power up to where I need it to be.I have added around 1/2" of washers to the nose of the piston, these only just slide down the piston and do not rattle etc when firing, I also greased them a little.This brought the power up to around 11ft/lbs with only a VERY slight increase in cocking effort needed. I proceeded to pump out 200 rounds or so to get the internals settled before I took an average power reading...11.1ft/lbs with RWS Super H points.As you see im getting close to where I want to be but still no cigar.So, a quick strip down and a washer added to push the spring forward off the spring guide by 1/8th" and im now running at 11.6ft/lbs.cocking effort again went up but its nowhere near what it used to be.Internal noise is still very low and recoil is around 1/3rd what it was or less....the rifle is now a pleasure to shoot. One last mod I have performed is to open up the retaining cap hole on the Parker Hale silencer and tap it 1/2" UNF to except an old ally silencer I had lying around.while this makes the barrel 22" in length it has made it VERY quiet also for back garden plinking etc.I have a spare PH end cap for hunting trips etc to just use 1 silencer. I will post pics and update this thread if your interested..im keen to try the other mainspring and to see how much I can remove off it etc when I have the new piston and custom spring guide made.For now im sure as the action settles I will probably see 11.7+ft/lbs for my current state of tune as the new washer beds in a little.