Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Ooops

  • Birthday 12/08/1959

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    Diving, 4WD & airguns

Recent Profile Visitors

549 profile views
  1. Nexgard is really good. I've experieced the same performance @12Gauge82 ascribes to Bravecto i.e. one tablet every three months
  2. Regardless of age, the general advice appears to be "don't give antler to your dogs" The following is from a discussion on another forum "Following some discussion with other vets, particularly dental expert types, the advice on using antlers as chews is simple: Don't. If you wanted to design something to cause slab fratures of the carnassial teeth (the big one mid jaw) then it would be antler. Since antlers were marketted as dog chews, there's been a rise in these fractures. The fracture can be treated with endodontics, but you have to be doing it very soon after the fracture has happened, so most need full tooth removal. A chewing toy needs enough give for 3-4mm depth of bite, so yes, this also rules out bones." To be clear, I'm lead to believe that for adult dogs softer bones such as ribs are fine, heavy load bearing not so much YMMV
  3. Wishy that's excellent news. Let us know your progress as things unfold. As a point of interest, did you join BASC and get a consultation?
  4. Wishy sorry to hear about your troubles. This lady was mentioned on the TDS forum as being particularly effective. Amongst her specialities are firearms licensing appeals. "Laura Saunsbury from Lewis Nedas Law, who is a leading expert in Firearms Law. Laura is a consultant solicitor with 25 years experience practicing exclusively in firearms related law, both criminal offences and firearms licensing appeals" The original thread may read at https://www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk/threads/hare-coursers.204260/ post #1 Hope this helps
  5. Quite excellent. My hat's off to you
  6. That's really good news. I'm so happy for the pair of you
  7. I apologise I did partially misunderstand you. My reference was predominantly regarding dog on dog. Pulling the rear legs, (walking backwards dragging the dog until it lets go) is much lower risk and really effective. It does assume that one dog doesn't want to be there. If its two hard, driven dogs it'll need one person for each dog or one dog secured but again it really will work The technique you describe was once, many years back, used by military handlers and it definitely does work but I've only seen it prescribed with the lead already attached to the collar. In one incident I was all out of options and I did as you describe, I got mangled. No serious punctures but three weeks before I could use my wrist properly and I only managed to slow the dog up, I never got a good enough grip to stop him I'm sure you're right, no question about it, particularly so with certain breeds but for many it will work. I absolutely agree with you and would add the average fit, healthy 5'11" unarmed guy would not do well in that situation Again 12gauge, I apologise for any misunderstanding on my part
  8. @B725 Really sorry to hear about your daughter. I hope she recovers quickly with no last effects @12gauge82 I'm sorry but I have to very strongly disagree with you. Over the years I've been witness to and on the receiving end of dog fights, bites & attacks and I can tell you that what you describe probably wont work and in fact it runs a very high chance of resulting in you getting badly bitten. When a driven dog fights it looses all perspective of every thing except its taget. If its owner were to grab it by the collar he or she would likely be bitten, I've seen it happen first hand. It's even more likely to happen if a stranger were to try it. The safest way is to grab the attacking dog by both its back legs and drag it backwards away from its victim. You'll be safe & it will be incapacitated until you're ready to release it by which time hopefully its owner will have reattached its lead. You could also try using your lead as a noose around it's back legs that way you could, if circumstances permit, tie the offender off to some thing but I have to say I've never tried this There's no excuse for this sort of behaviour, its the handlers fault and it should be hammered hard. Owners / handler have a responsibility to manage their animals so that they are allowed become a nuisance. And to have a dog bite some one & then FO is a seriously low thing to do and should be severely punished. It's not just about the bite and the immediate physical trauma, the after effects can include the lasting effects of crush injuries, nerve damage & a psychological element which shouldn't be underestimated. The same things also apply to victimised dogs. If you're dog's being attacked you'll do whatever you have to have to protect it but in doing so you run a strong risk of becoming the target. If you get a kick in on a dog, depending on its temperament there's chance it'll come for you and I've seen this happen. I don't have a problem with that scenario and I always go equipped for it with a stout walking stick. And the reverse of that is that I aways carry a muzzle. My last encounter was against six uncontrolled dogs who attacked, while my two were incapacitated. I defended flank & rear ends with my walking stick. We beat five off quickly and the last one who had managed a the throat hold bailed when my other dog and I unleashed hell upon it. I was unscathed but my dogs suffered lots minor wounds. My dogs are very tough and robust and suffered no lasting effects but for a while they were preemptively aggressive toward unknown dogs. As such It was my responsibility to manage them appropriately whilst they were in public until such time that their heads reset. Depending on circumstances they were kept on long lines, short leads and when appropriate they were preemptively muzzled. Lesser dogs would likely become neurotic after such an event, possibly never getting over it
  9. Just wanted to say "thanks" this worked really well for me
  • Create New...