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Jimiles

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About Jimiles

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  • Birthday 03/02/1957

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    Male
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    North Wales

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  1. Jimiles

    Advice on rifle accuracy.

    Thank you.
  2. Jimiles

    Deerhunter Heavy Camo Jacket Like New!!

    Mine certainly is - they're lovely bits of kit.
  3. Jimiles

    Advice on rifle accuracy.

    Dekers, what do you use to clean and lubricate your barrels? I'm tempted to give my HMR a clean.
  4. Jimiles

    Yukon Photon battery pack

    Can anybody reassure me that this 12v external battery pack will not fry my Yukon Photon XT? I am confused as the Photon runs on two 1.5v AA batteries and yet the manual says a 12v external battery pack can be connected. This option seems a lot cheaper than the Pulsar EPS3/5 if it will work. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-DC-Portable-6800mAh-Li-ion-Rechargeable-Battery-Pack-CCTV-Compact-LED-Strip/282991786883?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  5. Jimiles

    Mcarbo trigger kit from the US

    Thanks Hamster, mine arrived yesterday and was fitted within a couple of minutes. I took the rifle up onto the hill and 20 rounds functioned flawlessly. I still cannot weigh the trigger pull however to me it 'feels right' so I am happy!
  6. Jimiles

    SOLD Hawke Vantage IR 3-9x50

    Yes please, I'll have this. PM me your details for Bacs transfer. Jim
  7. Jimiles

    7.92mm/8mm Mauser bullets

    I know this is a bit of a long shot but does anybody have a quantity of military 198gn FMJ bullets I could buy for a small project? I am after 8 of the silver-coloured cupro-nickel bullets and 20 of the copper-coloured gilding metal bullets. Jim
  8. Jimiles

    Deerhunter RAM jacket

    Sold to Bandit Man pending the usual...
  9. Jimiles

    Deerhunter RAM jacket

    £35...anybody?
  10. Jimiles

    Deerhunter RAM jacket

    Excellent condition Deerhunter jacket in euro size 58. This would fit a chest size of 48" to about 54" at a guess. Everything is present & correct including the removable seat pad inside the back of the jacket. Waterproof, windproof and incredibly warm. I am a 45" chest size and this is just too big for me sadly... £45 posted
  11. Jimiles

    Mcarbo trigger kit from the US

    That's a bit of a worry. I would consider my trigger to be safe but I've got to say it is very light...and I don't have a trigger tester.
  12. Jimiles

    Mcarbo trigger kit from the US

    If this link works it will show the sear and the round 'well' in which the sear spring is seated. The spring itself is missing. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=remington+597+sear+spring&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi6m6j3tIDdAhWKIMAKHfb4B_sQ_AUICygC&biw=1920&bih=966#imgrc=2bniM8z2_u8IkM:
  13. Jimiles

    Mcarbo trigger kit from the US

    Probably a wise decision. Assuming it is the same gunsmith who did the polishing job on the guide rails I would ask him if he remembers doing anything at all to the sear spring. It isn't the short fat spring, it is located underneath the sear and is very difficult to see and even worse to strip/assemble. It is actually glued to the base of the trigger mech housing with some sort of silicone adhesive if that helps you to locate it. I have benn back onto the Rimfirecentral forum where i originally found a pictorial guide to this particular modification intending to post the link here but for some reason I cannot now access the forum.
  14. Jimiles

    Mcarbo trigger kit from the US

    I'm sorry, I've re-read my post and perhaps I should clarify that I did install the complete new mod kit - the hammer, spring & bushes. That kit is still in the weapon and I was determined to make it all work with that kit installed and that is what I have now achieved. I do not think your 'light strike' is a strike at all. I think what is happening is that after firing a shot your working parts cycle back as they should and pushing the hammer back to the cocked position. The working parts then go forward chambering a new round. At the same time the sear should have ridden up to retain the hammer in the cocked position. The hammer should then remain there until the trigger is pulled again but in your case I do not think the sear is engaging the hammer properly and the hammer is floowing the working parts forward again. As the working parts slam shut the hammer rotates into contact with the back of the firing pin and pushes it forward enough to give a light strike. This doesn't happen when you manually cock the action to chamber a round because this process is very much slower than when the action cycles after firing - when you cock it by hand the sear has enough time to engage, when the action cycles after firing the sear does not have time to engage properly. I'd suggest that this is potentially a very dangerous situation where you might have the weapon fire without warning, as I said...mine fired when I struck the stock with my hand. The plus side of my frustrating day yesterday is that I really got to know the workings of my rifle and I found that the sear spring affected everything and has to be right. I suspect somebody has lightened your sear spring at some point. Doing this on its own would be fine and probably did work to reduce the trigger pull however fitting the modoified hammer/spring has just tipped it over the edge. I would perhaps speak with your gunsmith and ask if he did anything with the sear spring. I suspect fitting a new sear spring would resolve your problem - I certainly hope so! Jim
  15. Jimiles

    Mcarbo trigger kit from the US

    Hi Hamster...have you previously done anything at all to your sear spring? My kit arrived yesterday morning and I was off to the shed to get it installed. Had it fitted in minutes and everything seemed to be going flawlessly...and then the nightmare began. Before I go into detail I will explain that I have already modified my rifle following a tip I found on the Rimfirecentral forum. This involved drilling and tapping a hole through the trigger guard and up beneath the sear spring. An Allen screw could then be fitted and the theory was that adjusting that screw would adjust the pull off. The sear spring itself was also replaced with a slightly lighter spring. Having completed this I found that I could indeed adjust the trigger pressure however it introduced a catalogue of issues - the safety catch not moving over to safe, double taps, and also the same problem as you have described with the light strike. Increasing the pressure again with the adjusting screw rectified all of these but obviously put the trigger pressure back up pretty much to where it was previously. However, it worked, so I lived with it as it was. Having fitted my new spring & hammer yesterday I was horrified to find all of the above problems were back. Even worse was hearing the rifle fire on a snap cap when I lightly patted the stock with my hand. I must have stripped down & reassembled that trigger mech 20 times yesterday and I ended up having to put my original modification back to the factory condition. This entailed removing my Allen screw and refilling the seat for the sear spring with epoxy resin for the spring to sit on. Even this didn't return it to correct operation and I had to replace my weaker sear spring with the original heavy factory spring. It then became apparent that even the height of the well on which the sear spring sits is critical and I had to remove tiny amounts of epoxy resin to get the balance just right. I only finished working on the rifle late yesterday evening and a quick magazine of 10 confirmed it was all okay again. When the rain stops I'll get out and put a few more rounds through it just to make sure but I must say I am now very impressed with the clean, light trigger release. I'm sorry this is all so complicated to relate and I hope gives you a few pointers to consider. Jim
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