Croohur

I used to lightly oil the internals of my moderator, but I found it made no difference if I did or not. I assume the exhaust from the gases quickly expel the oil and all you have done is waste a bit of oil!! I just take it off periodically and soak it overnight, give it a clean and its good as new!

Brake cleaner when its been in the wars then a light gun oil/mineral oil, blow some air through it/around it and shes good to go.

I wonder is the AK for Akkar Altay the Turkish shotgun maker who make the budget Churchill range.. these are quite similar

Seems to be another one here: https://www.cheshiregunroom.com/classic-sporting-tr-ak-07-12g-shotgun

After the Classic Doubles stopped producing in Japan, Marocchi in Italy took over making them for a while AFAIK. It has the look of an early 90s Marocchi anyway. As Gunman said, proof marks should reveal all....

Oh no! I've only just started reading it in the past few months. While it understandably focused a lot of attention on American guns like Fox;s and Ithaca's it was incredibly well researched and well written. A real shame.

The Spanish system, as applied by the proof house in Eibar in the Basque Country is easy enough to follow. Since 1995 a number presented in blocks of digits presents the information like this:The first two digits identify the maker (for instance, 16 is AYA, and 13 is Lanber). The second two digits identify the maker of the gun, and 03 indicates a shotgun. The next sequence of digits is the manufacturer’s serial number, and the last pair of digits is the year of manufacture (for instance, 98 indicates 1998, and 05 indicates 2005).The serial number AFAIK gives the model and year of manufacture - mine was 13-03-0****-06-12-76This breaks down as Makers Code - Type - Serial Number - Year of proof - Gauge - Chamber length13 - Lanber makers code03 - Type of firearm in this case a shotgunSerial number - pretty obviousDate number - last two digits of date of manufacture i.e 98=1998,99=1999 - The above number would indicate 200612 - 12 Gauge76 - Length of chamber in this case 76mm (3inch) The above is valid IIRC for guns made post 1998, before that the format was serial no, year, bore, chamber length I think....If you look on the under side of the barrels you will see the spanish proof house marks, there should be a a proof house year code made up of a letter and a single number.

Yes, I have one. First one I've owned, but works as well as I expected them to work. Have no complaints. I don't use it much so cant comment on how long it will last, but had one about 18 months with no issue.

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If I was a betting man, and having a feel of the worst of the pitting I would say that it would be safe to use with light loads. But I'm not a betting man and will take it to a gunsmith. It was gun that did have sentimental value to the original owner, who gifted it to my wife. I'd rather keep it and use it, as its a nice old boxlock and out of respect for the family friend. But it would not be worth putting much money into it, and I think the original owner would not want us to. I did some livht honing on the bores today, just to make sure there was no rust. The pitting does seem ancient, there wasn't any sign of rust. There is some slight pitting on the barrels, but it has been smoothed over and re-blued at some point, probably around the same time as it was re-proofed. Anyway, I've put it in the back of the gun cabinet and will ponder on it over December and Christmas and get it to a gunsmith in the New Year. Would be delighted to hear anymore input from people. I have no experience of older sxs at all. I have a Merkel Model 8 from the 1970's that is bombproof so am eager to hear people's thoughts. Cheers.

I like it. I don't like it that much. I'm in Ireland. If anyone does sleeving here it will be at least twice as expensive as in the UK.

Well they are 30" barrels and balanced slightly barrel heavy so that might be an option

Of course the pitting is in the open choked barrel so walls are thinner. So lapping might not be an option. The bores near the chamber end are in much better shape. It's really the front trigger open barrel end that has the worst of it. Will definitely get someone to have a look, as it's a nice gun to shoot. Just needed to add a bit of LOP to stock and we were all good to go

Fired a few shots yesterday to see if it was sound. Gave the bores a good soak and cleaned out today. Unfortunately, what the cleaning showed some pitting in one of the barrels. The top picture shows the worst of the pitting. Have no experience of this situation. It looks bad to me, what would be anyone else's opinion? It could be from 60 years ago and possibly why it was sent for re-proof... Anyway won't be shooting until I can find someone who can have a proper look at it.

Thanks for that information. Much appreciated. Here are a few more photos. I've seen some that have Braddell engraved on the action. This one jus has it on the rib. There are decades of grime and scratches hiding what seems to be a nice piece of wood underneath. Can't wait to give it a good clean tomorrow and see what she looks like

Hi all, My wife got gifted a basic enough Birmingham boxlock from a family friend. Its a Joseph Braddell & Sons of Belfast badged Birmingham made boxlock. Neither of us has a huge amount of experience with English side by sides, so I was wondering if anyone would have an idea who made it. A search through the web would indicate that other examples were possible made by Webley and Scott and Bentley and Playfair. I know through the basic proof marks that it was made in Birmingham between 1925-1954. It has a snap action forend fastener. Chokes are improved and approx. 3/4. The family friend thought that his grandparent used it to shoot ducks in Lough Neagh many years ago. Its a bit battered, but hasnt been used in nearly 40 years as it was in a safe and then was used by the owner as a back up gun that he never needed. Anyway, I was curious what some of the marks are - The stamp on the barrels in the second picture - an inspectors mark?? The initials WH?? the 13 over the 1? And the capital R under the crown I have no idea!! Hopefully some one can enlighten me. Thanks Few more. Have never seen a "break" in the rib like this. Its decorated with scroll work, but a bit messy. Is it a repair job? Or something else?

Guy in our area was up in his shed checking on round bales he had stored upright and somehow he slipped in between them into the curved diamond shape you get between 4 bales. His wife heard a bit of shouting, but thought he was moving animals. It seems he panicked after a while and suffocated. Wasnt found for 24 hours. Have had nightmares about that one.

Not sure I've ever heard such bad feedback about a gun. Unfortunate, as I do admire the ingenuity and fresh thinking needed to come up with something new, and its disappointing that it hasn't worked out. Ultimately its on Benelli for not ironing these issues out before the gun came on the market, but hopefully it doesn't stop them from trying new things

Here is a handy guide to some basic Lanber info I took a photo of when I had one of my own. It has the choke info in the bottom table.

Also, if you're the other side of the person holding the semi auto, you can't see if there is a flag or not.

I agree. I have a 3.5 Maxus. I consider it more as a 3 inch that will shoot everything down to 24g with some cartridges. But always nice to have the 3.5 option there, even if I don't see myself using it too much. Just adds a bit to its versatility.

I know when you are using the speed loading system for the first cartridge I have to swipe it with my thumb up rather than push it in. Maybe try and keep your thumb more vertical rather than pushing the cartridge in horizontally. And keep the tip of your thumb lower down on the brass as you are pushing it into the magazine. When I got my Maxus I spent a bit of time loading shells, ejecting and reloading out in a field before I was happy with a technique that worked for me. I initially had an issue with the second cartridge jamming after the first cartridge was fired and ejected. I found it was all in the way I was loading. There is a definite knack to loading a Maxus , but its very much a learning to ride a bike situation. Once you've figured it out you dont do it again. Thats my two cents! Hope it helps.

I use German Army surplus driving gloves. Cover them in a waterproofer, heat with heat gun, they're the business. I've always got them a little small if I can and the leather will stretch naturally til they... don't say it... fit like a glove https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182394895903

I've only picked one up in a gun shop and found the rubber butt pad to be VERY rubbery, sticky and catches on clothes. Has anyone who has one had a problem with them or swapped the butt pad out?

I have a Leatherman Surge with bit extender and a small penlight. Use it every single day on the farm. Only had it a few years and genuinely dont know how I got on without it. Actually I do, I was in and out of the toolshed all bloody day long.....