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About miki

  • Birthday March 19

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  • From
    Lanark, Scotland
  • Interests
    Outdoors, Chainsaws, landrover, Bikes and Bangs

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  1. Offers ? £500 inc postage
  2. miki

    Stock oil

    A mix of Red Kite, Alknet Oil, Terebine Dryers and Boiled Linseed Oil. Add 20% Turpentine for the first few coats should you sand off the old coating. A little Carnuba Wax will give it that English sheen. Otherwise use any of the standard hardwood oils from B&Q ie Danish or Teak Oil.
  3. Thumler Tumbler sometimes used ones available on the bay of E or the Frankford Arsenal lite tumbler, to be honest they all look to do a similar job. The cheapy eBay/Chinese ones work but i've heard thge build quality is not good and the motors fragile.
  4. Daystate Pulsar. Black, synthetic, FAC in .25cal Complete with moderator, hard case and all the spare parts/tools etc. I have a large bottle, about 1/2 full, but this is out of date. Several tins of pellets along with 2 magazines included. As new. Will include RFD transfer if required. Situated near Lanark ML11 £1400 ONO
  5. Yes, the "law" surrounding moderators is a bit pointless really and costs a lot of money to administer. It also (IMO) adds unneccesary cost to the device. Back to the point, if the moderator is of all metal construction (inside and out) then it would be safe to use on a .22 rimfire rifle. However, as everyone has said, unless it is on your FAC then it is against the law to fit it to your rimfire rifle.
  6. Fairy, like other 'washing up liquids' contain a surficant that encourages the production of bubbles. Dish washers dont like bubbles (neither do washing machines in general) so using a detergent designed for the machine is a lot better in the wet tumblers. Citric acid (and sodium sesquicarbonate) soften the water which means bubbles (which need their walls to be tough to survive) dissipate quicker. If you use fairy when you open the lid the tumbler it is full of foam ...... try two teaspoons of the detergent your socks get washed in, or half a dishwashing tablet.
  7. I use citric acid, a kilo on eBay is £5 and I use 1/2 a teaspoon with 1/2 an Aldi dishwasher tablet for around 60 cases in my Thumbler which I fill to just over half full with luke warm water ("never do things in halves" said my father, what did he know eh ?). The citric acid aids passivation or adds an element of 'tarnish protection' to the process.
  8. What do you want to 'spot' with it ?
  9. Thanks @Rewulfreal helpful of you mate. They are £895 new
  10. I have a Ward W800L for sale which will give you a lot more range than the Pard with a decent IR illuminator/torch. NV Store W800L The pard is good for closer in (22LR and 17HMR out to approx 100M) but for foxing/long range stuff the Ward is miles better.
  11. For sale is my W800L add-on night sight. Bought in 2019 this is the newer version with the freely rotating clamp (so it doesn't hit the bolt when reloading). Used but not overly, no damage or scratches. This was mainly attached to a Delta Titanium on a .22-250 for foxing and laterly to a Hawke on a .22LR for rabbits. Now superceeded by dedicated units so hasn't been used since last year, I have fitted a cover over the on/off switch to stop me accidentally turning it on (see pics). The sight comes complete with the supplied scope adapotor rings (the black ones) and a couple I made up for the scopes I used plus the charger and an (unused) wrist strap. Perfect for both cflose (sub 80) and longer range vermin control with your existing scope. Ideal for a 2.5-15 or 3-18x50 scope. I have taken foxes 250yds + with this using a 67mm IR torch and my Delta Titanium 2.5-15x56 and was ideal on my .22 with a T20 torch shooting rabbits to 60yds. Price includes UK courier delivery. £600
  12. Good advice from @stu64above, As you are essentially fitting a hot metal box the rules regarding the air gap are defined and are relatively easy to understand. As you are in the planning stage a 6" gap is a good guide. I had an existing open (coal) fire so the chimney was fine (its an 18" concrete tube), you would need to be checked. So the first step is to pick a stove and decide weather you want a top or rear flue. A top flue means the stove is set back into the fireplace and a rear flue puts it approx 12" further forward so the back of the stove will be approx 18" from the back wall. To visualise these sizes, when I did mine, I made a cardboard model and found that (as I wanted a rear flue) I needed a larger hearth and an overall larger opening. This meant I needed to remove the old fireplace back to the brick and then remove the lintel so I could accommodate the additional height. Once that was all done I fitted a new steel lintel and I laid a larger hearth (you can see the wooden former around the old hearth, which I filled with concrete and put a 30mm thick slab of slate on). I then lined the hole with fireproof platerboard and covered that in brick slips. I installed a galvanised steel register plate and the flue stickes up through that into the chimney. Heres a few pics to show the steps.As @stumpy69noted, being in Scotland I didn't need any permissions or 'sign-off'. It took me a while to do and we weren't living in the house at the time. Total cost was about £500 (the slate hearth was the most expensive).
  13. Yes it opens a Microsoft Excel speadsheet..
  14. Applying an over voltage to a DC motor is a bad idea, the armature will draw to much current, get hot and burn out. Applying 9V will slow the motor and also provide less torque. Typical motor controllers use some form of Pulse Width Modulation, ie they turn the motor on and off. @Ultrastuhad the best idea (IMO) extend the arms so the tips will spin faster.
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