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  1. Anyone know if it’s possible to drop a finnfire action into a quad stock. I want a thumbhole stock on my finnfire, a boyds to be precise . I know that the quad action is slightly longer but if the action screws are in the same place then it might be doable. any help would be appreciated
  2. It’s usually the back mount , I used three layers of electrical tape. Some will tell you that’s it’s not a good idea to shim a scope but it’s never caused me an issue with damaging scopes so I remain sceptical that it does.
  3. Hello I had one on my my t3x .243 . It was in opti locks and not shimmed. I have shimmed it on other mounts so that may be necessary but I was pleased with it as it held zero and was good to nearly 200 yards with an extra ir
  4. Also bear in mind that there is a potential safety issue swapping mods between rimfire and centrefire. I don’t fully understand it and I am a bit sceptical of how real the danger is but the theory goes that unburnt powder from rimfire rounds in the mod may ignite when used with a centre fire. This will mean that you’ll have to clean your mod before swapping.
  5. I got this too, didn’t know if it was a scam or not. Even if true and if I read it correctly then it’s just your mobile / email that’s been accessed
  6. I used to be a daysthater but after owning a wolverine for The last six years I think they are worth the money. The pride of owner ship in the fit and function is where the money goes and In the wolverine the balance is phenominal. I’ve owned / shot most of the airguns on the market and daystate and styr are probably the nicest Imop in saying that I’m after fac at the moment and I like the fx crown,mostly for its tinkerbility so it’ll probably one of those but the look of the daystate huntsman revere might sway me.
  7. I had the same issue with my photon on my cz. I put three strips of electrical tape on the back mount , hey presto
  8. It’s gone back to the gunsmith to put it right. The shop reckoned that I must of dropped it, although I can’t remember dropping it but there were slight marks there so it’s possible. Anyway I bet it’s going to cost an arm and a leg, even though it’s safe I want it looking right .
  9. Yeah good advice , I was thinking the same, would hate to have an accident . I’m thinking at best browning might be able to do something under warranty and at worse a new fore end.
  10. I’ve had my browning for about 4 years and noticed today the the fore end isn’t sitting flush with action. One side is leaning in and the bottom is sitting proud. in closer inspection it looks like one side of the fore end is bent which would explain why. I can’t remember giving it and bash and there are not Mark to suggest I have . I’ll drop it in the shop next week and I’ve been told it’s not dangerous to use but has anyone else come across this ?
  11. I’d try and pick up a cz455 stainless, it’ll be tough, accurate,cheap and you can swap the barrel easily if you shoot it out. when you get onto the 243 , check out the Mauser m18
  12. I put it on my cz452 and had to shim the back mount (normal high sports match mounts) with three layers of electrical tape but it was east to sight, even bore sighted it before getting out on the range. But it’s going on the Mauser m18 243 next week, just waiting for a Britannia rail to show up .
  13. Just got on older Yukon photon xt and although not as clear as the pard 007 it’s so much easier to use and still good for 150 yards with the right illuminator , good eye alignment and only around £250 second hand .
  14. Hello do you know how many shots you get and at what power please?
  15. I have a Mauser M18 in 243 , they do one in 223 now for £600 new which is a bargain in relative terms. I’ve owned a tikka before and they are nice but the Mauser is on a par with them actions and trigger wise. For me the Mauser fitted better , having a longer length of pull. I also think the Mauser is quieter in operation which may or may not be a consideration .
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