Whitester

Anyone know if it’s possible to drop a finnfire action into a quad stock. I want a thumbhole stock on my finnfire, a boyds to be precise . I know that the quad action is slightly longer but if the action screws are in the same place then it might be doable. any help would be appreciated

It’s usually the back mount , I used three layers of electrical tape. Some will tell you that’s it’s not a good idea to shim a scope but it’s never caused me an issue with damaging scopes so I remain sceptical that it does.

Hello I had one on my my t3x .243 . It was in opti locks and not shimmed. I have shimmed it on other mounts so that may be necessary but I was pleased with it as it held zero and was good to nearly 200 yards with an extra ir

Also bear in mind that there is a potential safety issue swapping mods between rimfire and centrefire. I don’t fully understand it and I am a bit sceptical of how real the danger is but the theory goes that unburnt powder from rimfire rounds in the mod may ignite when used with a centre fire. This will mean that you’ll have to clean your mod before swapping.

I got this too, didn’t know if it was a scam or not. Even if true and if I read it correctly then it’s just your mobile / email that’s been accessed

I used to be a daysthater but after owning a wolverine for The last six years I think they are worth the money. The pride of owner ship in the fit and function is where the money goes and In the wolverine the balance is phenominal. I’ve owned / shot most of the airguns on the market and daystate and styr are probably the nicest Imop in saying that I’m after fac at the moment and I like the fx crown,mostly for its tinkerbility so it’ll probably one of those but the look of the daystate huntsman revere might sway me.

I had the same issue with my photon on my cz. I put three strips of electrical tape on the back mount , hey presto

It’s gone back to the gunsmith to put it right. The shop reckoned that I must of dropped it, although I can’t remember dropping it but there were slight marks there so it’s possible. Anyway I bet it’s going to cost an arm and a leg, even though it’s safe I want it looking right .

Yeah good advice , I was thinking the same, would hate to have an accident . I’m thinking at best browning might be able to do something under warranty and at worse a new fore end.

I’ve had my browning for about 4 years and noticed today the the fore end isn’t sitting flush with action. One side is leaning in and the bottom is sitting proud. in closer inspection it looks like one side of the fore end is bent which would explain why. I can’t remember giving it and bash and there are not Mark to suggest I have . I’ll drop it in the shop next week and I’ve been told it’s not dangerous to use but has anyone else come across this ?

I’d try and pick up a cz455 stainless, it’ll be tough, accurate,cheap and you can swap the barrel easily if you shoot it out. when you get onto the 243 , check out the Mauser m18

I put it on my cz452 and had to shim the back mount (normal high sports match mounts) with three layers of electrical tape but it was east to sight, even bore sighted it before getting out on the range. But it’s going on the Mauser m18 243 next week, just waiting for a Britannia rail to show up .

Just got on older Yukon photon xt and although not as clear as the pard 007 it’s so much easier to use and still good for 150 yards with the right illuminator , good eye alignment and only around £250 second hand .

Hello do you know how many shots you get and at what power please?

I have a Mauser M18 in 243 , they do one in 223 now for £600 new which is a bargain in relative terms. I’ve owned a tikka before and they are nice but the Mauser is on a par with them actions and trigger wise. For me the Mauser fitted better , having a longer length of pull. I also think the Mauser is quieter in operation which may or may not be a consideration .

I’ve owned the t bolt in both Calibres and now own the cz 452 in .22. Both great hunting guns if that’s what you want it for. The t bolt is lighter and quicker to re-load so I would say this would be more suitable as a truck gun or something to walk around with and shoot off sticks and the cz is just very rugged and probably more stable off a bi pod than the t bolt with a better trigger out of the box for precision.

I use sako 90 g soft points in mine . They are relatively cheap and will usually stabilise in most 243’s as they seem to have a 1 in 10 twist. Also good for fox.

Mauser M18 for £600 is hard to beat. I have one in 243 and they are great value for money . You’ll also have £100 left over to go towards mounts/ mod

For the money you really can’t beat the pard 007. If you already have suitable scopes then you can move them forward and mount the pard there permanent because it will change to colour in the day time . At night simply change to night vision mode.

Both are good but for me the tx just edges it. They are tuned out of the box and are very easy to strip down. looking at a few of the recent hw’s I don’t thing the quality is as good as the old ones . The plus point for hw is that the closing catch on the underlevers doesn’t open when you put a sling on it as it does with the tx. The loading port is less fiddly and they don’t have the loud clack clack sound that the tx has when cocking .

You can say what you like about srs power but I like watching his vids because in my opinion he’s an honest bloke and he’s telling it like it is from his own experiences. he may or may not be as experienced as some but that’s the stage he’s at and at least he’s bothering to take the time. Please do your own u tube clips if you think we would benefit from your experience .

I'm tempted to get another, wish i'd never sold mine now.

The trigger is the only bad point but as has already been said the trigger mod lightens thins up a bit. When you get used to the trigger it’s not that bad or stump up £240 for a hard unit. When you get past the trigger it has the quickest action and best mag out there bar none. The only other down side is the cost.

Had my 525 for 3 1/2 years now and never had any rust problems but i clean it after every outing . go for one post 2015 because they changed quite a few things and they are better for it. The inflex pad , nicer wood, better balance i. The rifles and to me the trigger feels better on these. i have had problems with pitting on the firing pin but its not affected the firing so not really an issue. The action remains stiff because of the way the foreend works which is bad because its not a eacu to open as say a berreta of the same age but good because it still feels new. there are the inly bad things really. They handle really nicely , dont recoil much, have lovely triggers which all aids concerntraiting on the shooting . Most of the time i dont even notice the gun . if they fit you then i would recommend buying one, nice shotguns.

Went for 25 g 6 in the end. Will try them out tomorrow